Low GPM to SPA after some changes in piping.

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MadRed

MadRed

Active member
May 26, 2024
34
Florida
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Plaster
Hello all. I need your advice. My pool tech had to replace my back flow valve on the SPA return and to make his job a bit easier, he changed my pipe from going straight down into the ground from diverter valve, into a four 90 degree turns detour. From that moment on my SPA has stoppered producing bubbles in 2 jets and 1 jet is totally not working. The most I get from my IntelliFlow Pro VSF 3 with 3 HP is 30 GPM. And the pump throws high speed warnings while doing that.

I asked him if this elbow is causing the issue and he said no. I do not agree and thus need your help. Here is the picture of new piping.

Also attached is the picture of pump’s numbers. Almost max speed to push 30 GPM.

Thanks in advance.
 

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What is the filter pressure at that speed?

Maybe the check valve is in backwards?

How many jets does your spa have?

Seems like very small pipe for spa jets. Did they also reduce the diameter?
 
mas985 said:
What is the filter pressure at that speed?

Maybe the check valve is in backwards?

How many jets does your spa have?

Seems like very small pipe for spa jets. Did they also reduce the diameter?
Click to expand...
Pressure 38-40
Arrow points in the right direction
4 jets
No. Same as original that worked fine prior to the addition of the new detour.

Pressure when return is to both pool and spa is at 15-20
 
What flow rate and watts do you get in POOL mode at 3300 RPM?
 
MadRed said:
Pressure 38-40
Arrow points in the right direction
4 jets
No. Same as original that worked fine prior to the addition of the new detour.

Pressure when return is to both pool and spa is at 15-20
Click to expand...
38-40 PSI is way too high.

Was it that high before?

Does the gauge go to zero when the pump shuts off?

There is probably something restricting the flow. I think the installer screwed something up. I would remove the check valve cover and make sure the flapper moves freely. BTW, the spring should be at the top of the valve, not the bottom.

The other possibility is they got a lot of debris in the pipe and it has clogged the nozzles in the spa jets. To clean those out, you need to remove the outer fitting and the inner nozzle with a long 9/16" socket wrench. Then run the pump and try to flush out any debris.
 
Last edited:
Pulling from pool only and returning to spa/pool I get 64-66 GPM. I cannot test returning only to pool as it’s limited by actuator. But it almost approaches the limit of a 2 inch pipe.
 
MadRed said:
Pulling from pool only and returning to spa/pool I get 64-66 GPM. I cannot test returning only to pool as it’s limited by actuator. But it almost approaches the limit of a 2 inch pipe.
Click to expand...
What is the filter PSI at that rate?

It sure points to a problem in your spa plumbing and not your filter if you can run 60+ GPM on the pool side.
 

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mas985 said:
38-40 PSI is way too high.

Was it that high before?

Does the gauge go to zero when the pump shuts off?

There is probably something restricting the flow. I think the installer screwed something up. I would remove the check valve cover and make sure the flapper moves freely. BTW, the spring should be at the top of the valve, not the bottom.

The other possibility is they got a lot of debris in the pipe and it has clogged the nozzles in the spa jets. To clean those out, you need to remove the outer fitting and the inner nozzle with a long 9/16" socket wrench. Then run the pump and try to flush out any debris.
Click to expand...
It was about 30 before. It does go down to zero when pump is off.

I told the little plastic restrictors of the jets and bubbles start going in 3 out of 4 jets. I was playing with reducing the GPM to 25 and only 2 jets remain working. So it seems like my GPMs used to be around 35-40 and now has fallen below what is needed to drive all 4.

Can this elbow/detour be what lowered it enough?
 

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I don't like that zig-zag and would have plumbed it as drawn with the red line to cut out two 90's and also used a sweep 90 at the bottom.

1717122275565.png
 
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I would try flushing the lines as I outlined in post 5.

If that doesn't work, then I would have the technician replace the piping that was done.

Adding 4 90s shouldn't reduce flow rate that much but a sloppy job could have partially blocked the lines.
 
mas985 said:
I would try flushing the lines as I outlined in post 5.

If that doesn't work, then I would have the technician replace the piping that was done.

Adding 4 90s shouldn't reduce flow rate that much but a sloppy job could have partially blocked the lines.
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How would it be redone considering there is very little room left to modify anything. It almost looks like I would have to get a new diverter valve. Since everything is glued. Where would they cut?
 
This is why I am trying to eliminate everything else. This is a process of elimination to get to the core problem.

If the check valve is in the correct orientation (btw, the arrow is irrelevant because the lid can be rotated so it is still installed incorrectly), and if the flushing does not resolve the issue, then the only other solution is to redo that section of the plumbing.
 
mas985 said:
This is why I am trying to eliminate everything else. This is a process of elimination to get to the core problem.

If the check valve is in the correct orientation (btw, the arrow is irrelevant because the lid can be rotated so it is still installed incorrectly), and if the flushing does not resolve the issue, then the only other solution is to redo that section of the plumbing.
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I will check the valve in AM.

What’s the best way to flush the jets? I opened them and ran the SPA but I did not see any improvements. GPM stayed at 28-30.

Can the glued parts can be undone?
 

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