Looking for long screws to mount Tork valve actuator to Hayward valve

Golfer2000

Bronze Supporter
May 2, 2018
87
El Paso - TX
Pool Size
12400
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
I'm trying to avoid paying $60 for the 8 Hayward screws (GLX-GVA-4SCR) and I would rather not use the Tork screws as they appear to have a different thread. From what I can tell its a 1/4"-14x2 screw but I'm struggling to find the correct screws. Has anyone sourced these before?
 

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I'm trying to avoid paying $60 for the 8 Hayward screws (GLX-GVA-4SCR) and I would rather not use the Tork screws as they appear to have a different thread. From what I can tell its a 1/4"-14x2 screw but I'm struggling to find the correct screws. Has anyone sourced these before?
Won't hurt to use the screws supplied with the actuator. Its done all the time, as every brand actuator is compatible with every brand valve. Many times they come with different threads on the screws.
 
For my Pentair valves, missing screws when we moved in, I've had zero problems with these from Amazon. They seem to be a perfect match with the OEM screws and are $9 for 25, which should be a lifetime supply :cool: .
 
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For my Pentair valves, missing screws when we moved in, I've had zero problems with these from Amazon. They seem to be a perfect match with the OEM screws and are $9 for 25, which should be a lifetime supply :cool:
Thanks for the help! Not sure why the OEM screws are so much!
 
Amen. It seems anything with "pool" in the description is at least 5x the price of the generic equivalent. I guess they charge that much because they can.
Perhaps. But, even small screws are a part of their requisitioned inventory as they would naturally need to be for manufacturing, all with their own packaging and SKUs for after-care/warranty. These need to be QC'd as consistent in form factor not just from batch to batch, but year to year.

They aren't merely resellers or drop-shippers of a raw product. They're supporting these minor parts as official products and carry the burden of the implied liability that comes with them ; I/E guaranteed fitments, performance and fiscal and legal responsibility if these tiny parts cause other failures - failures that may equate thousands of dollars in damage or adjacent harm to other parts or people.

Costs to support them in this manner are different than a mass-production in bulk for general construction in boxes at a hardware store where QC is less critical and responsibility for application is zero.

This doesn't justify the exponential prices often seen. But, it's helpful because it's still not really an apple to apples comparison.
 
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Perhaps. But, even small screws are a part of their requisitioned inventory as they would naturally need to be for manufacturing, all with their own packaging and SKUs for after-care/warranty. These need to be QC'd as consistent in form factor not just from batch to batch, but year to year.

They aren't merely resellers or drop-shippers of a raw product. They're supporting these minor parts as official products and carry the burden of the implied liability that comes with them ; I/E guaranteed fitments, performance and fiscal and legal responsibility if these tiny parts cause other failures - failures that may equate thousands of dollars in damage or adjacent harm to other parts or people.

Costs to support them in this manner are different than a mass-production in bulk for general construction in boxes at a hardware store where QC is less critical and responsibility for application is zero.

This doesn't justify the exponential prices often seen. But, it's helpful because it's still not really an apple to apples comparison.
I certainly get the q/c, stock, and distribution overhead. I get the liability bit. The tort lawyers are always out there. But $7.50 (without shipping) for a single, absolutely standard screw that costs about 20 cents to produce, I do not get.
 
If the screw threads do not match, then the screw will crossthread and damage the plastic female threads.

It will probably hold, but it is always best to make sure that the screw goes into the exact same threads.
 

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As @1poolman1 said, grab a new screw and stick with it. When we install actuators at properties, we use pentair, no matter what valve it is. It's possible the longer stock screws create a new thread on those 4, but insofar as you maintain that new pattern from then forward, I can assure you, you are better off than 100% of folks who have the correct screws but don't reverse and set before screwing them in.
 
If the screw threads do not match, then the screw will crossthread and damage the plastic female threads.

It will probably hold, but it is always best to make sure that the screw goes into the exact same threads.
Screws designed for plastic cut their own threads, even in the valve body that has had a screw in it. They don't cause damage to the valve body. Have mixed and matched Hayward, Jandy, Pentair, Intermatic brand actuators (many of which come with screws that are different ) with whatever valve (hayward, Jandy, Pentair, Waterway, CMP, etc.) is on the property for a long time and never a problem. Its really a non-issue.
If the valve gets stripped, its usually because of using a power screwdriver (though that will usually crack the body first) or thinking that, "I just need a half-turn more." On a very old valve, just take a bit more time as the plastic is usually a bit more brittle.
 
Once the threads are cut, any removal and reinstallation of the screw should use the same thread.

When you cut a new thread into an existing thread, the likelihood of stripping is high, especially if someone use too much force.
 
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