Large pool salt water chlorine generator selection

[Adrino]

Hello,
I need to replace my Circupool SJ-55 salt generator. I live in New York and my pool is about 50,000 gallons. I am looking for some recommendations on which SWG to get. I recently had to replace all of the lines and I installed 5 new Jandy Nichless LED lights. I don't know if its really needed, or worth the money but I see some units have wifi and built in controls for the lights. Since I dont have a heater I would like to have a way to see the pools temperature with out using a floating thermometer. Thanks for your help.

 

[Bperry]

Hello,
I need to replace my Circupool SJ-55 salt generator. I live in New York and my pool is about 50,000 gallons. I am looking for some recommendations on which SWG to get. I recently had to replace all of the lines and I installed 5 new Jandy Nichless LED lights. I don't know if its really needed, or worth the money but I see some units have wifi and built in controls for the lights. Since I dont have a heater I would like to have a way to see the pools temperature with out using a floating thermometer. Thanks for your help.

Recommendation is to get a SWCG rated for twice your pool size. How sure are you about the 50k gallons? That’s a huge pool.

 

[Adrino]

Recommendation is to get a SWCG rated for twice your pool size. How sure are you about the 50k gallons? That’s a huge pool.

Thank you, I know the pool is very big and a little difficult to calculate the gallons. . The pool is a 20'x20'x40' "L" Shape. It has 3 sections. 20x20 3' deep end with a sun deck and steps coming out 6', a 20x20' 5' deep section and a 20x20' 9' deep section. The deep ends have sloped angles towards the bottom. Not sure if it makes a difference in the SWG selection but t he pool is all vinyl.

 

[Newdude]

Hey Adrino and Welcome !!!

What's wrong with the SJ-55 ? We have mild UV up here so it rarely gets insane and if it does its only for 2 or 3 weeks.

A 1x unit will do fine up here, but I'd want a variable speed pump because it'll need to run 24/7 during the peak season. With a single speed, PSE&G would be waiting for you at work on payday.



The RJ60+ produces more FC, extending its life and allowing (slightly) less runtime.

If you've been following pool store recommendations about sanitizing, the 55 may be fine. They don't know their rear from their elbow and send you off to do the impossible, such as, running a 1-3 FC. You lose 4 per day in the peak season, they aren't telling you to start at 7 and end at 3 like we would, they're saying to dose 1-3. You can't have a negative 2 but you can have a SWG that won't overcome the constant algae growing from not being sanitary.


That's another issue using a smaller cell. It takes 24 hours to produce the 4ppm, but you lose most of that from 9a to 3p, so there's a chunk of swing. (They don't understand that either, and 1-3 stays in effect).

So questions.

1) what's wrong with the 55
2) how do you test ?
3) whats a typical test say for FC and CYA ?

 

[Adrino]

Hey Adrino and Welcome !!!

What's wrong with the SJ-55 ? We have mild UV up here so it rarely gets insane and if it does its only for 2 or 3 weeks.

A 1x unit will do fine up here, but I'd want a variable speed pump because it'll need to run 24/7 during the peak season. With a single speed, PSE&G would be waiting for you at work on payday.

View attachment 556838

The RJ60+ produces more FC, extending its life and allowing (slightly) less runtime.

If you've been following pool store recommendations about sanitizing, the 55 may be fine. They don't know their rear from their elbow and send you off to do the impossible, such as, running a 1-3 FC. You lose 4 per day in the peak season, they aren't telling you to start at 7 and end at 3 like we would, they're saying to dose 1-3. You can't have a negative 2 but you can have a SWG that won't overcome the constant algae growing from not being sanitary.


That's another issue using a smaller cell. It takes 24 hours to produce the 4ppm, but you lose most of that from 9a to 3p, so there's a chunk of swing. (They don't understand that either, and 1-3 stays in effect).

So questions.

1) what's wrong with the 55
2) how do you test ?
3) whats a typical test say for FC and CYA ?

Thanks Newdude,

My cell SJ-55 stopped producing chlorine and this is my second cell on the unit. I'm not sure if its the unit or the cell right now but either way the cell alone goes for $675 plus tax and shipping. I went on line and saw newer units that have more options so I was considering replacing the whole thing.

 

[Newdude]

My cell SJ-55 stopped producing chlorine

Did it claim it was producing and you didn't see it, or were the lights off or error codes ?

this is my second cell on the unit.

How long did each last ?

 

[Adrino]

Thanks Newdude,

My cell SJ-55 stopped producing chlorine and this is my second cell on the unit. I'm not sure if its the unit or the cell right now but either way the cell alone goes for $675 plus tax and shipping. I went on line and saw newer units that have more options so I was considering replacing the whole thing.

I have a Hayward single speed 1 1/2 HP motor that I run 14-16hrs a day.

 

[Adrino]

The controller says its working but I see much less bubbles in the cell than there were when it was new and I wasn't getting any chlorine in the pool. I cleaned it twice but still nothing

 

[Adrino]

The first cell lasted about 3 years

 

[Newdude]

The first cell lasted about 3 years

You should get way more than that here. Even at 1X.

but I see much less bubbles in the cell than there were when it was new

They work until they die. They don't lose production as time goes on.

I wasn't getting any chlorine in the pool

How do you test ? We prove the problem to the cell or the water by testing overnight. If the FC drops with no UV loss from the sun, then algae is consuming the cell FC. If you don't lose FC overnight, then we do a overnight gain test to see if you produced any.

I cleaned it twice but still nothing

Never clean the cell without visible toothpaste like build up (calcium). With a vinyl pool up here in low calcium land, it shouldn't ever have scaling.

Acid strips the unobtanium coating on the plates which shortens the life of the cell.

They say to clean it every 3 months, my own Pentair SWG says it right on the cell itself. But again they don't know their rump from their elbow.

I have a Hayward single speed 1 1/2 HP motor that I run 14-16hrs a day.

Do you know the KWs it uses ? Probably 1700 to 2000 ? Mine chugs along at 110W at 1200 rpms and it's so cheap we splurge all the way up to 220W / 1500 Rpms to make the water move more for aesthetics.

 

[Adrino]

Thanks for the info. If I did need to replace it what unit would you recommend?

 

[Newdude]

I'd go with the RJ60+.

Get a reliable test kit. The TFpro salt from tftestkits.net is the hands down winner. It's the same price as the K2006C, includes a $44 stirrer and throws the $30 salt kit in for a $20 upcharge, making it an even better deal. The supplies are also custom tailored to how we roll, where the 2006c you'll be throwing out the TA and CH tests you didn't need and replacing the FC tests early.

When you open, we can run some tests and if it is the cell, perform some diagnostics and possibly fix it. Or at least then you know for sure it was time to spend $1800. Doing so on a guess is foolish.

Then we'll teach you the stupid easy and cheap way, giving the cell a much longer life than you've seen.

 

[PoolStored]

I second the RJ60+.

I run one here in Ohio (about the same latitude) and rarely have to run above 60%. (30K gallons)

Do you have a solar cover? This will really help reduce consumption.

RJ60+ in your pool running 100% for 24 hrs will generate 7.4 FC in your pool. My consumption with cover is never really over 5.5, and this is on a high usage day.

You MAY find, without cover, and heavy pool usage, that in June/July you MAY find you need to supplement with a bit of liquid chlorine...but I doubt it.

The RJ60+ is a beast and I love it. I would try it. If you find it doesn't have enough "ooomph" you can always add another cell.

SWG Multiple Cells - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Adrino]

Ok, so if I buy this test kit to see if my current system is working properly can I test the system now or do I need to wait until the weather gets warmer? The pool is currently open (just replaced my liner) and I would like to see if my current system works before I close it again. This way I don't have to deal with this in the peak season when I open the pool again.

 

[Adrino]

I second the RJ60+.

I run one here in Ohio (about the same latitude) and rarely have to run above 60%. (30K gallons)

Do you have a solar cover? This will really help reduce consumption.

RJ60+ in your pool running 100% for 24 hrs will generate 7.4 FC in your pool. My consumption with cover is never really over 5.5, and this is on a high usage day.

You MAY find, without cover, and heavy pool usage, that in June/July you MAY find you need to supplement with a bit of liquid chlorine...but I doubt it.

The RJ60+ is a beast and I love it. I would try it. If you find it doesn't have enough "ooomph" you can always add another cell.

SWG Multiple Cells - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

PoolStored- Thank you!

 

[Adrino]

PoolStored- Thank you!

My pool is a large L shaped pool. A solar cover would not be feasible

 

[PoolStored]

Ok, so if I buy this test kit to see if my current system is working properly can I test the system now or do I need to wait until the weather gets warmer? The pool is currently open (just replaced my liner) and I would like to see if my current system works before I close it again. This way I don't have to deal with this in the peak season when I open the pool again.

What is your current water temperature? Most cells stop working around 60 degrees water temp (mine will work a little bit lower).

You still need a good test kit and the spring sale is on... TFtestkits.net
I'd get the test kit and at least test the salt level now, and you will have it when water temps are high enough to test the cell....

My pool is a large L shaped pool. A solar cover would not be feasible

You can cover the larger portion and it will help with pH rise, FC consumption and retaining heat.

 

[Newdude]

salt level now

Make sure is MIXED. It stratifies when given months to settle, along with any rain that got in up top.

You can cover the larger portion

Or a standard rectangle plus a side square.

 

[Adrino]

Im sure the water temp is way below 60. I just filled it after the liner was installed. No salt in the pool yet. I doubt it will get above 60 for a while. Sounds like I'm going to need to close it before I add salt and test my system.

 

[Newdude]

I just filled it after the liner was installed. No salt in the pool yet

Details man !!!! Details !!!!!

So salt will be little if any and it can't stratify or get diluted with rain.

Sounds like I'm going to need to close it before I add salt and test my system.

I checked the long range forecast because I got the itch to open on March 1st and while next month is a total guess, it would have been ok to open (or stay open for you) if the predictions stayed true. There was a couple of lows around 27 next month but running the pump would be plenty to keep it from freezing for a few hours.

A 2 week arctic snap could always blow in there somewhere so staying open isn't without risk. Or, when they know it's coming a week or two ahead of time at the time, blow the lines while it's still in the 50s. If it doesn't happen, then you saved yourself the trouble.