K-2006 Taylor Test Results (50% Water Change)

[MelusineBeerCo]

Plaster/Gunite Pool - (I estimate based off dimensions 15,000 Gallons- including hot tube)

New Taylor K-2006 test kit came in the mail today.
Free Chlorine 8.5
pH 7.6
TA 160
CYA 100+ (last store reading 150)
Calcium Hardness 300

I have known my CYA to be extremely high for two seasons, this season I will be replacing my lights so I will be 50 percent draining anyways. I am sure everything will be out of whack post-refill.

I am new to testing myself and using TFPs methods. What should I have on standby post refill (ie. Baking Soda, liquid chlorine, muriatic acid)?

 

[PoolStored]

Do the test starting with #8 to get exact CYA. Your water exchange will be 1:1 to reduce CYA...so if 150, and you want to get to 50, you need to replace 66%.

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

What kind of light and why do you think you need to drain to replace it?

On the draining/refill side, check out no drain water exchange here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The only thing you will likely need is chlorine and CH increaser (calcium chloride), and at some point muriatic acid. You want at least 250 CH to protect your plaster and likely will be below that after water replacement. Test your fill water for CH and TA...report those.

 

[MelusineBeerCo]

Do the test starting with #8 to get exact CYA. Your water exchange will be 1:1 to reduce CYA...so if 150, and you want to get to 50, you need to replace 66%.

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

What kind of light and why do you think you need to drain to replace it?

On the draining/refill side, check out no drain water exchange here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The only thing you will likely need is chlorine and CH increaser (calcium chloride), and at some point muriatic acid. You want at least 250 CH to protect your plaster and likely will be below that after water replacement. Test your fill water for CH and TA...report those.

I guess, I don't "need" to drain to replace lights- I just know it might be easier for me and knowing my CYA has been high now going into three seasons-figured might as well do both at same time. They are the pentair micro-LEDs with 100 feet of cable. However, hindsight, I may to the no drain water exchange method.

 

[pjt]

I am new to testing myself and using TFPs methods. What should I have on standby post refill (ie. Baking Soda, liquid chlorine, muriatic acid)?

How are you chlorinating? Fill out your signature when you have a minute.

 

[MelusineBeerCo]

How are you chlorinating? Fill out your signature when you have a minute.

I will get all the info from my equipment once it stops raining out. In the past, I used a shock/tablet combo from Leslies. Going forward, I want to use regular old non-scented bottled bleach. Sunday, I drained more than 50%, replaced both pentair lights in the spa and the pool, and began refilling. It is almost filled as we speak.

 

[pjt]

In the past, I used a shock/tablet combo from Leslies.

That's the source of the high CYA.

I want to use regular old non-scented bottled bleach.

Get pure LC, widely available at pool stores, Home Depot, Lowes, and Walmart (all sold in the pool supply area). Walmart usually has the best pricing on their Pool Essentials LC.

Have you considered installing a saltwater chlorine generator (SWCG)? It's by far the cheapest, easiest, and most convenient way to chlorinate.

What should I have on standby post refill (ie. Baking Soda, liquid chlorine, muriatic acid)?

What's the TA and CH of your fill water? Using LC or SWCG, under normal circumstances you'll never need baking soda. All you should need for now is LC and MA.

 

[sande005]

Do some shopping. The bleach you describe sounds like you are looking in the grocery store or similar laundry aisle of your local store. You may need 1 1/2 gallons per day, or more, during the summer. That may be about $13-14 per day, (~$9/gal) unless you can find a really great deal.

Get the "Pool Essentials" at Wal-Mart. You'll only need 3/4 gallon, and will be about $4.25 per day....

Just that, and perhaps some muriatic acid.

X2 on considering the Salt Generator. It will pay for itself very quickly, even if the initial cost seems high. You'll get very tired of lugging jugs and babysitting the pool almost every day....

 

[PoolStored]

If you ever get to Brunswick, Pinch a Penny has 2.5gallons for $9...or $3.60 per gallon...

 

[MelusineBeerCo]

Drained 33% of the water. It took 24 hours to add back 3765 gallons. I then ran pump for 24 hours. Took a sample this morning.

Free Chlorine: 13.5 ppm
pH: 7.6
Total Alkalinity: 150 ppm
CYA: 100+ (The K-2006 test kit can only test to 100)
Calcium Hardness: 250 ppm

Based off this- I am assuming I will bring the water down to 7.0 pH and run my slide until water naturally raises to 7.4 ph.

Question for the hive: The slide to raise; are we talking hours or days to naturally get the pH back up by aerating?

 

[ajw22]

CYA: 100+ (The K-2006 test kit can only test to 100)

You need to drain more. CYA 100+ is not manageable.

For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test, adjusting the procedure as follows:

1. Fill the mixing bottle with pool water to the lower mark (15 ml line).
2. Continue filling the mixing bottle with tap water to the upper mark (30 ml line).
3. Shake briefly to mix.
4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle so it is again filled to the lower mark (15 ml line).
5. Continue the test normally by adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.

If you need to dilute the pool water further, then apply these ratios:

Pool water	Tap or distilled water	Multiply result by
1	1	2
1	2	3
1	4	5

Note that when doing a diluted test, you multiply the range of the test and the error rate of the test, so the results are a ballpark—not an absolute.

See CYA Testing for tips on how to read the test results.

 

[MelusineBeerCo]

FC 1.5 ppm
CC .5
PH 7.8
Total Alk 110 ppm
Cal Hard 210 ppm
CYA 140

I plan on draining 33% more water in a few weeks. My wife is on her way back from store with pool bleach jugs.

I have Leslie’s shock and tablets but refuse to use them anymore. Tired of CYA.

About to add muriatic acid to drop pH