Jandy truclear salt cell only lasted 2 years 8 months

[dannytrigo]

I replaced my salt cell in April 2022 after the previous one got cracked due to high pressure because the valves were fitted the wrong way around and allowed to block all flow

Anyway, 2 years 8 months later and the unit is cycling between check cell and waiting. My salt was low at 2000, so I've added 3 bags bringing it up to 3400, then it moved to "lo temp/lo salt", but now it's back to check cell.

Also tried cleaning the cell with an acid/water mix prior to topping up the salt.

Is the cell likely dead and needs replacing after such a short time? These things aren't cheap. Could it be the wall unit or almost certainly the cell itself?

Thanks

 

[PoolStored]

Cleaning the cell with acid will shorten the life of the cell.

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Newdude]

What's the actual temp versus whatever it's reporting ?

Per the Jandy SWG wiki the cell may experience premature failure from salt below 2600, but if thats the cause, you were well on your way anyway.

Is the cell likely dead and needs replacing after such a short time?

Its not the time elapsed but the hours 'on' and you have loooooooong seasons needing among the highest daily production in the country. If you averaged 250 days a year at 12 hours of use a day (at 100%..... 24 hours at 50%.... etc) you'd be about 8400 hours in 2.8 years. That's fair for any quality brand in perfect conditions, and real world conditions often shorten the ideal lifespan. Acid cleanings due to scaling, for example.

Hang tight if the Jandy Gurus have ideas for troubleshooting.

 

[ajw22]

What is your water temperature?

Jandy TruClear SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Unlike many other SWG systems sold in the US, the Jandy Truclear does not have a flow switch or a temperature sensor. Instead, it uses a gas trap to determine when to shut down for safety. Otherwise, the cell plates have power.

The display does not have a cold water indicator.

Section 6.4 of the Jandy TruClear Installation Manual says:

Operating the chlorinator below 55°F (13°C) is not recommended. Operating the chlorinator in cold water can dramatically shorten the life of the cell.

During prolonged periods when the water will be less than 55°F (13°C), the unit should be turned off and a chlorine floater or erosion feeder should be used by putting a small number of tablets in either of these devices until the water temperature increases. Doing this will lengthen the cell life and provide better performance when water conditions are more optimal.

 

[dannytrigo]

Thanks for the replies.

It might not have a cold water indicator, but when it can't run for some reason it does show that "lo temp/lo salt" message.
But I'm in Florida and the water temperature doesn't really go below 70F so it's definitely not that. It's 73F right now.

For the past year I have been running it 24/7 with the pump on a low rpm, thinking this was good to produce enough chlorine and cut down on electric costs rather than running at a higher rpm for shorter periods. Now I'm thinking this is what has caused it not to last and maybe that's not the way to go when I've replaced it?

I've probably not been testing salt enough for the past 3 months due to some family distractions and maybe this added to the wear too and tipped it over the edge

 

[ajw22]

What % do you run the cell at?

What is your CYA level?

 

[ajw22]

Cell lifespan is 6,000 to 10,000 generating hours. Let’s assume your cell is at the low end and lasted 6,000 hours. Over 3 years that is 2,000 hours a year.

Assume 300 days of generating with some winter shutdown and the cell runs on average 7 hours per day. That is about 30% if the pump runs 24 hours per day.

If these numbers fit your profile then you got normal life from the cell at the low end of its lifespan.

 

[dannytrigo]

I try to keep my CYA above 70 and the SWA at about 50%, but during summer I still occasionally get algae even keeping chlorine high and everything else in balance - I think because my pH drifts high very quickly, so on those occasions I put it up to 100% unless doing a SLAM

 

[ajw22]

Running your SWG around 50% in FL I would expect about a 3 year cell life.

 

[dannytrigo]

Running your SWG around 50% in FL I would expect about a 3 year cell life.

Ok thanks. I've ordered a new one. I think I'll try to run the pump less with the new one (not 24/7) and see if I can still keep my free chlorine in range

 

[proavia]

Ok thanks. I've ordered a new one. I think I'll try to run the pump less with the new one (not 24/7) and see if I can still keep my free chlorine in range

It's usually better to run the SWG for a longer timer period at a lower percentage.
The hours for a SWG count only when the SWG is producing chlorine. If you run the pump 24 hours daily and the SWG is set to 25%, the SWG is producing chlorine for 6 hours.

Be sure to adhere to the FC/CYA Levels chart.
Not having enough chlorine in the pool water based on your CYA level won't keep the pool sanitary or algae free. Not keeping the CYA level in range for your SWG will require the SWG to work harder to maintain the necessary FC level as FC burns off faster with low CYA.

Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Update your signarure to include your test kit(s), equipment model numbers and pool info.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature

 

[ajw22]

think I'll try to run the pump less with the new one (not 24/7)

Danny, the amount you run the pump does not wear the cell.

The amount of time the cell is generating was the cell. That is determined by the amount of chlorine your pool needs.

Running the pump 24/7 with the cell at 25%, 12 hours at 50%, or 6 hours at 100% puts the same amount of mileage on the cell.

Running the pump longer at a lower % is usually the best.

and see if I can still keep my free chlorine in range

That is always good.