Jandy pump failure

[dldeuce]

I've got a Jandy water feature pump/motor that has stopped working. I tested the relay and realized the circuit breaker had been thrown. I flipped the breaker, and at first it came on. I realized the pump was dry because I had drained it to prevent freezing. I started filling it with water, and then it threw out sparks, a pop, and it blew the breaker again. Now it comes on for a few seconds, sparks, pops, and throws the breaker. Previously, I had replaced the capacitor and it had worked for like a year before this happened.

The question is, is there any other troubleshooting I can do on the pump itself? In other words, are there any other internal parts I might be able to replace, or is it more likely that the motor has just bit the dust? What is involved in just replacing the motor myself?

 

[dldeuce]

I waited for a half hour and tried again. This time the pump came on and stayed on. It was taking forever for the pump to start. While it churned before it started, there was a vibration, a chugging sound, a little crunchy, hard to describe. The pump finally started, but it didn't quite finish filling the pump reservoir. I looked, and the water fall was maybe half the output it would usually have. It pumped maybe a minute and then it popped again and tripped the breaker.

 

[ajw22]

What model pump and motor is the water features pump?

Show us pictures of the entire pump and the motor data plate.

 

[dldeuce]

What model pump and motor is the water features pump?

Show us pictures of the entire pump and the motor data plate.

 

[dldeuce]

So I've apparently found the problem. The question is where did this screw come from?

 

[dldeuce]

How do I take this apart to get a better look at what's going on? I can't seem to take apart the impellor housing. I can't seem to separate the motor shaft from the impellor.

 

[JamesW]

The screw looks like a reverse thread, which means that it is probably the impeller screw.

Is the impeller screw out?

Hold the motor shaft from the back and unscrew the impeller.

 

[dldeuce]

The screw looks like a reverse thread, which means that it is probably the impeller screw.

Is the impeller screw out?

Hold the motor shaft from the back and unscrew the impeller.

Thank you very much for that. The impellor unscrewed pretty easily, and the screw does reverse thread into the shaft. I thought the screw might have came from there initially, but I couldn't screw it back in. So I think I understand it. The motor is spinning freely. I think I'm going to put it all back together and see what happens.

 

[dldeuce]

I've re-assembled it all. Now it's doing nothing at all. It's got 240V at the input terminals. Zero voltage at the capacitor. Is there an internal circuit breaker?

 

[JamesW]

Show the wiring.

 

[dldeuce]

Show the wiring.

 

[dldeuce]

Two black wires coming from the relay and the green ground wire. I cleaned up those connections a bit, but still nothing.

 

[JamesW]

Remove the capacitor and power wires and then test resistance from L1 to L2.

 

[dldeuce]

open

 

[JamesW]

Looks like a bad motor.

 

[JamesW]

A permanent split capacitor (PSC) motor looks like below.

An open from L1 to L2 indicates an open main winding (Meters reads "O.L").

 

[dldeuce]

I thought there were heat protection switches. What you're showing there is just straight up bare wire. It's weird. Yesterday it was working, kind of. It would run, then trip the breaker. It would buzz but not run, then trip the breaker. I was hoping that finding that loose screw, I'd put it all back together, and wa la! I at least expected it to do what it was doing before. Now it's just dead.

 

[JamesW]

There is a thermal protector.

You can try to find that to see if it is open.

Connect the two capacitor wires together and check the resistance from L1 to L2.

 

[dldeuce]

I connected the capacitor wires together. There are two wires connected to terminal A & B. I left those connected. It's still an open on L1 & L2.

 

[JamesW]

Maybe both windings are open.