Jandy into pump, Jandy or ball valves for backwash, and heater bypass. Check my work.

[SoCalDIYWannabe]

Okay, it's go time, new Intelliflo 3hp pump (different size than my whisperflo) and new Aquastar filter. Will be replacing 20+ year old DE filter. New filter has inlet on left, outlet on right, and drain in front. Got lucky, it's very similar to the diagram.

I have blue painters tape on my garage floor to represent my equipment pad, not very big. Roughly 24 deep by 36 wide. Heater not included in that, it's off to the left. I have a few inches between the pad and the house, so the 'overhang' on the pump is okay.

Issue 1
The Jandy diverter valve, pulling from Pool/Spa, it would fit directly into the large opening for the pump, but of course that'd be a mistake. Ruins both. If I glue the Jandy directly into the union, it's very close, but still removable. Also, it doesn't reduce flow down to 2". Would that work? Images below.



Okay, on to question 2.

I have backwash plumbing in the ground near the filter. New filter doesn't backwash, since it's cartridge. I heard you don't really want to just open the drain plug on the filter for use in this case, as it could damage a filter.
If I am replumbing, should I consider putting in a tee/valve for a way to drain the pool if needed? If so, should that be after the filter or before? Would it be better to have a diverter, or 2 ball valves? (one for the to-heater that stays open, and one for the to-hose or to-backwashplumbing that stays off) Note - I have a submersible pump, so I can always use that if needed. Should I just stick with that?

Finally, the heater bypass. Can't tell completely by the diagram, the diverter valve would be on the vertical up/down pipe after the filter. Does that layout look right? Other than right at the connections to the pump, heater, and filter, are there any recommended spots for unions or ball valves? Going to do this all over the next day or two hopefully.

*Thanks for the other thread on pvc cutting. I never thought to use a circular saw.

 

[Poolbreh]

If it’s a completely fresh build I try and keep a little pipe between expensive fittings like valves and unions, and avoid street fittings in valves unless it’s the only option. It just makes any repairs in the future cheaper and easier. But yes you could plumb it like that.

Just use the sub pump.

I don’t understand the bypass diagram.

 

[SoCalDIYWannabe]

A slightly different angle (and before I scooched the filter closer to the pump...
I see some heater bypass with 3 ball valves, and I see others with one diverter and one check valve. That's the way I have it set up in the diagram.

 

[PoolStored]

You really want to have 5x your suction pipe diameter of straight pipe before the pump.
You also want at least 6" above the keypad to be able to open the cover to the keypad.

 

[Poolbreh]

Looks good, yes you want the 3way diverter setup it’s less prone to user error.

 

[SoCalDIYWannabe]

You really want to have 5x your suction pipe diameter of straight pipe before the pump.
You also want at least 6" above the keypad to be able to open the cover to the keypad.

View attachment 635395

Unfortunately there's no way I can do more than a few inches for the pump. Unless I run the pump sideways and then send the pipe out of foot and a half to the right and make a U-turn and come right back. At that point I could easily put 10 in before the pipe but I'm introducing three additional 90s. And it looks weird.

So I pretty much either need an elbow coming directly into the pump or the valve, which brings up a completely separate question that I'm now curious about. Is a standard 90 much different than a diverter valve with regards to flow resistance?

 

[PoolStored]

You'll be fine, plumb it the way that you planned. I forget more than I remember. It is something that is recommended in the water distribution industry where the pumps are much larger and much more prone to cavitation and they don't use a pump basket so the flow into the impeller is directly related to the plumbing attached to the impeller inlet.

 

[SoCalDIYWannabe]

Progress report...
Nervous, so I decided to 'pre-build' as much as possible, also so when I cut into the old stuff, I've got less down time. I marked the pad in my garage with blue tape, ignoring accuracy, but it's not incredibly far off. (I thought it was 40 wide but it's only 36, so extra blue tape.)

I am being quite careful with the purple paint. But it still gets everywhere!!

 

[pjt]

should I consider putting in a tee/valve for a way to drain the pool if needed? If so, should that be after the filter or before? Would it be better to have a diverter, or 2 ball valves?

I would put a high quality 3-way diverter between the pump and the filter. This enables the option to vacuum to waste or quickly pump water out of your pool.

are there any recommended spots for unions or ball valves?

Do not install ball valves anywhere in your plumbing. Only use high quality 2-way or 3-way diverters (Jandy Never Lube or Pentair).

 

[SoCalDIYWannabe]

So the challenge now is, the heater inlet/outlet are very close to the pump, so I need to go in/out of the heater and immediately go 'up' so that I have access to the keypad / motor if needed.

I don't recall seeing any three-way fittings that are 3 directions, they are all Tees. If the water will need to 'change direction' anyway, is there issues with using three ways?
For my bypass, I have the diverter going right into a 3way, I think they call it a side outlet or side inlet.

 

[Poolbreh]

I don’t carry that fitting on me nor have I ever used it. I’m sure it’s fine, there is a dozen ways you could do that bypass. If you feel comfortable using that fitting and want it plumbed that way I dont see any problem. I personally would do everything at the equipment pad, I like to start with the intake of the pump and work my way back. Always have an end in mind, if that’s a union or 2 90 piece to finish.

 

[SoCalDIYWannabe]

Well, I didn't find that fitting at my local big box store, so... that idea went away. I'll fidget with it tomorrow.
Right now, I'm at that crazy spot - no filter, no pump, very few pipes. I didn't get a picture before dark, but it basically looks like this...


Teardown is done. Tomorrow bright and early I will start the rebuild.