Is the Leslie's lady full of it? Recent Acid Wash and Startup Questions (Las Vegas)

[julien2101]

Hi everyone,


First, I want to sincerely thank this fantastic community for the incredible resources and helpful discussions. I've donated to TFP, subscribed to the yearly pool calculator, and I'll update my signature with full equipment details as soon as possible.


Background: I recently purchased a home in Las Vegas featuring a 13,400-gallon in-ground plaster pool (house and pool built in 2021) with a connected overflow spa and SWG. I just had the pool drained, tiles bead blasted, plaster acid-washed, and then refilled.


Due to frequent travel, I plan to retain my weekly pool service to help with routine maintenance. However, my goal is to manage the water chemistry personally as much as I can. I've been learning the TFP method and am eagerly awaiting delivery of my TF Pro Salt test kit.


Here's the timeline so far:

• Wednesday: Tiles bead blasted.
• Thursday: Plaster acid washed, thoroughly rinsed, and refill started.
• Monday Morning: Refill completed. Pool company immediately added powdered CYA (approximately 16 oz, visually estimated), 2 gallons of liquid chlorine (unknown concentration but clearly liquid chlorine, not bleach) , and placed two chlorine pucks in a floater.
  (I removed the floater shortly after, having learned here that it raises CYA.)
• Tuesday: Pool service company added salt.
• Wednesday: No actions taken.
• Thursday (today): I added roughly 3 cups of 12.5% liquid chlorine because I had removed the floater, the SWG wasn't yet producing chlorine, and my test strip showed between 0 and 1 ppm FC.

Concern / Confusion: In preparation of receiving my test kit, I purchased liquid chlorine, liquid muriatic acid, and liquid CYA from Leslie's. However, the staff member at Leslie’s was very insistent that I should NOT add liquid CYA or muriatic acid at this point. She nearly refused to sell me these products, stating emphatically that after an acid wash, my plaster "needs time," and adding acid-based products could severely damage the freshly acid washed plaster surface.


This advice feels questionable to me. Conceptually, I can somewhat understand it—after all, an acid wash exposes a fresh plaster layer, much like new plaster. But does her advice hold water? Could my pool company's immediate addition of powdered CYA after refill completion have been a mistake? Have I potentially caused damage to my plaster?


My specific questions for you experts:

1. Does Leslie's advice have any validity?
   Should I genuinely avoid adding liquid or powder CYA and muriatic acid right after an acid wash and refill? Is it possible that my pool company screwed up by adding CYA as soon as pool was refilled and that it may have damaged the plaster?
2. Is there anything I should definitely avoid doing once my TF Pro Salt test kit arrives?
   I'm anticipating I'll need to adjust CYA, chlorine, and potentially lower pH with muriatic acid due to Las Vegas water conditions. Should I wait on any of these adjustments given the recent acid wash?
3. Any Vegas pool owner could let me know if I should be ready to make any other adjustments given the Vegas Water (summerlin west if it makes a difference)? Will Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness be most likely appropriate? I want to go buy whatever I may need right now while I wait for my test kit. I am not expecting having to raise PH, Mess with Alkalinity or Calcium hardness with Vegas water but who knows? If so, should I wait because of the recent acid wash?
4. I would like to add Borate for the SWG protection, PH buffering and water sensation. When would be a good time?
5. Salt and SWG Issue:
   My Pentair Intellichlor currently shows a solid red light indicating "Low Salt - Off," even though salt was added Tuesday. I realize it might take up to 24 hours for accurate salt readings, but it's been nearly two days now and the salt used was pool salt that visually dissolved very quickly. Should I wait until my salt test kit arrives, or should I add more salt immediately?
6. Chlorine Dosage (temporary measures until SWG activates):
   Without my test kit yet, I'm flying a bit blind and don’t trust Leslie's to test my water. Considering my pool's size (13,400 gallons) and the chlorine already added (2 gallons on Monday, and approximately 3 cups today), what amount of liquid chlorine would you recommend adding daily until my SWG kicks in? Should I temporarily put the floater back in? The current daytime temperatures here in Las Vegas are around 78°F (low 60s overnight). Temps were in the low 80s earlier this week but are expected to cool down to mid-60s starting tomorrow.

Thank you all so much in advance—I truly appreciate your guidance

 

[PoolStored]

Does Leslie's advice have any validity?

Hogwash. Your plaster is cured.

Is there anything I should definitely avoid doing once my TF Pro Salt test kit arrives?

Don't add anything more, except add 3ppm of liquid chlorine per day until it arrives.

Any Vegas pool owner could let me know if I should be ready to make any other adjustments given the Vegas Water (summerlin west if it makes a difference)?

It should be fine. The only things you will likely need is CYA, Liquid Chlorine, Salt and Muratic acid. Won't know how much until we get the test kit.

1. I would like to add Borate for the SWG protection, PH buffering and water sensation. When would be a good time?

As a long time borates user, wait 6 months to a year and learn how to manage the pool before adding borates to the mix.

Should I wait until my salt test kit arrives, or should I add more salt immediately?

Turn off the SWG. Do not add salt. Wait for the kit.

Chlorine Dosage (temporary measures until SWG activates):

Add 3ppm per day in Liquid Chlorine. Use Effects of Adding function in pool math to figure out how much is 3ppm.

 

[JJ_Tex]

Concern / Confusion: In preparation of receiving my test kit, I purchased liquid chlorine, liquid muriatic acid, and liquid CYA from Leslie's. However, the staff member at Leslie’s was very insistent that I should NOT add liquid CYA or muriatic acid at this point. She nearly refused to sell me these products, stating emphatically that after an acid wash, my plaster "needs time," and adding acid-based products could severely damage the freshly acid washed plaster surface.

You encountered a well meaning but un-educated Leslie's employee, which is better than most of their employees but still terrible advice. She is giving you advice for brand new plaster that has to cure. The plaster the acid exposed was cured years ago.

 

[julien2101]

@JJ_Tex and @PoolStored Thank you for the prompt responses!

*- SWG, Since the pentair intellichlor is solid red (low chlorine - off) do I need to turn it "off off". My pool service guy said it does not turn of and therefore didn't before adding the salt. That said since it was solid red (and still is) I am hoping it didn't damage the SWG...

- I forgot to add my chlorine addition in the app earlier this morning at around 10AM, I think I put 27oz at most which is the equivalent of 2.0ppm based on my pool volume (caculated with effect of adding tool). Should I only add an additional 1.0ppm? or should I add more since nothing was added since the 2 gallons 19.0 ppm added on Monday (does this seems high for a startup?) I think the tile water line is starting to have a fine browish deposit that may be algae near the stairs and on the spaoverflow (nowhere else in the pool), water seems clear otherwise

 

[PoolStored]

Your SWG is fine.

Add 3ppm per day, doesn't matter if you do it all at once or in splits.

Brush your pool.

 

[julien2101]

@PoolStored thank you! I'll go add an additional 1PPM and brush right now

 

[PoolStored]

Nothing, that can't be corrected, is going to happen to your pool while you wait for the kit.

 

[julien2101]

That's reassuring, thank you!

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum.
Do you have an automation system? Please include that in your signature.

Be aware of the pool services in our area. They tend to use lots of Trichlor tablets and ignore SWCG. They also ignore the CH rise and just expect you to drain the pool every year or so.

Do you have softened water at your home?

 

[PoolStored]

My pool service guy said it does not turn of and therefore didn't before adding the salt.

There must be a way to remove power from the unit, even if it is a breaker.

In either case, turn the output down to 0% when you add the salt. Allow 24 hours for salt to circulate, with pump on, then turn up the output.

 

[ajw22]

*- SWG, Since the pentair intellichlor is solid red (low chlorine - off) do I need to turn it "off off". My pool service guy said it does not turn of and therefore didn't before adding the salt. That said since it was solid red (and still is) I am hoping it didn't damage the SWG...

For future information…

Solid red is low SALT off.

Set the IntelliChlor to 0% to turn it off before adding salt.

The IntelliChlor tests the salt level every 12 hours and decides if it should generate. The cell can see a slug of high salt water at the time of its salt test and decide to generate.

Your cell should be fine. The IntelliChlor cell is pretty robust. But it is expensive enough to be careful and set it to 0% before adding salt and for 24 hours of pump running at a high speed to dissolve and distribute the salt.

 

[julien2101]

Welcome to the forum.
Do you have an automation system? Please include that in your signature.

Be ware of the pool services in our area. They tend to use lots of Trichlor tablets and ignore SWCG. They also ignore the CH rise and just expect you to drain the pool every year or so.

Do you have softened water at your home?

Thank you! Yes, I have a pentair easytouch + screenlogic, I updated my signature with the rest of the equipment (filter, in-floor cleaning system, etc). I will instruct the service company to use liquid chlorine in the winter when SWG is off and I will take care of the rest as far as water chemistry is concerned!

I do have a whole house water softener in the garage that happens to be 3ft from the outdoor auto fill valve (on the other side of the wall). I have an appointment with a plumber tomorrow to get a quote on hooking up the autofill to the water softener, I understand this would avoid the CH to keep climbing, is this a good investment? I use potassium salt if it makes a difference.

There must be a way to remove power from the unit, even if it is a breaker.

In either case, turn the output down to 0% when you add the salt. Allow 24 hours for salt to circulate, with pump on, then turn up the output.

For future information…

Solid red is low SALT off.

Set the IntelliChlor to 0% to turn it off before adding salt.

The IntelliChlor tests the salt level every 12 hours and decides if it should generate. The cell can see a slug of high salt water at the time of its salt test and decide to generate.

Your cell should be fine. The IntelliChlor cell is pretty robust. But it is expensive enough to be careful and set it to 0% before adding salt and for 24 hours of pump running at a high speed to dissolve and distribute the salt.

the more/less button on the SWG itself are not responding because I am guessing it is controlled by the panel, I disabled it in the pannel settings (still solid red) it did not turn off the SWG entirely and it is still showing 80% (I'll go back and set it to 0% at the panel)


PS : I just added 1PPM of liquide chlorine, brushed entire pool and almost fell in...

 

[julien2101]

As a long time borates user, wait 6 months to a year and learn how to manage the pool before adding borates to the mix.

I will certainly follow this advice but I like to understand why I do (or don't) do things. Do you mind explaining the 6 months - 1 year time frame? Thank you!!

 

[PoolStored]

is this a good investment? I use potassium salt if it makes a difference.

Yes. The salt from the softener does not get into the water, it goes to waste. The softener removes the CH.

 

[PoolStored]

I will certainly follow this advice but I like to understand why I do (or don't) do things. Do you mind explaining the 6 months - 1 year time frame? Thank you!!

I'm a huge fan of borates but even some of our "Experts" waited quite a while to pull trigger until they knew how to manage the pool without them, and their water chemistry was stable. I give the same advice to any potential borate users, which tend to be new pool owners that want everything. You need some time to learn how your pool behaves over a year, because summer is VERY different than winter. A full cycle of experience will help you.

Borates are not magical and they do add to the complexity of your water chemistry. You can still lower TA with borates in the water and borates do not change the fact that you'll still use the same amount of acid. You'll just be adding more acid with less frequency so the total acid volume used is the same. The advice stands...you get to decide if you take it or not...

 

[julien2101]

I'll take it! Thank you for the explanation, it makes sense!

 

[ajw22]

the more/less button on the SWG itself are not responding because I am guessing it is controlled by the panel,

You change the % on the EasyTouch system, not the SWG panel.

I disabled it in the pannel settings (still solid red) it did not turn off the SWG entirely and it is still showing 80% (I'll go back and set it to 0% at the panel)

Disabling the SWG on the EasyTouch does not turn it off or set it to 0%. It drops control of the SWG and leaves the % where it was. You can then adjust the % with the cell buttons.

 

[mknauss]

Realize that your regen cycles for the water softener will increase so your potassium chloride consumption will increase. I know it is quite a bit more expensive than plain salt.

 

[julien2101]

You change the % on the EasyTouch system, not the SWG panel.



Disabling the SWG on the EasyTouch does not turn it off or set it to 0%. It drops control of the SWG and leaves the % where it was. You can then adjust the % with the cell buttons.

I tried everything, disabled or enable on easy touch pannel, 0% on panel with disabled and enabled, no matter what I do, the SWG itself remains at 80% with solid red light low salt - off. Only way to make the SWG "react" to do something is if a long press the less button, it then goes to 40% and goes back to 80 1 minutes later....

 

[julien2101]

Realize that your regen cycles for the water softener will increase so your potassium chloride consumption will increase. I know it is quite a bit more expensive than plain salt.

We're only 2 people, no kids and don't take long shower, I don't expect the cost of the salt to be materially significant. But good point!