Installing SWG myself-plumbing setup

STL

0
Bronze Supporter
May 15, 2018
34
St. Louis, MO
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I’d like to convert to salt and have a Pentair control system. I’m leaning towards an IC-60 system for my 30,000 gallon pool that’s on the south side of my house in full sun all day.

I’ve attached a couple pics of my equipment pad. Is there enough space to keep the salt cell far enough from the heater? Also, what diameter is the salt cell?
I no longer use the second pump as I have a robot now. Some water flows through it to the return so I’ll likely just leave it alone.

I’ll probably install a heater bypass at the same time but would love any feedback from the knowledgeable folks here.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6107.jpeg
    IMG_6107.jpeg
    420.5 KB · Views: 42
  • IMG_6103.jpeg
    IMG_6103.jpeg
    486 KB · Views: 42
Remove the T to the booster pump and you have plenty of room for an IntelliChlor cell.

I would replace any ball valves with diverter valves while you are doing PVC work.




The IC15/20/40/60 needs 17 inches to be cut into a PVC pipe. The cell is just under 16" from the end of one union to the end of the other union.

Pentair_Intellichlor_Specifications.jpg
 
Remove the T to the booster pump and you have plenty of room for an IntelliChlor cell.

I would replace any ball valves with diverter valves while you are doing PVC work.




The IC15/20/40/60 needs 17 inches to be cut into a PVC pipe. The cell is just under 16" from the end of one union to the end of the other union.

Pentair_Intellichlor_Specifications.jpg
Could I just eliminate the check valve and get rid of everything between the red lines and the install the salt cell and a Y or T to keep using the cleaner return or would you cap that return line?

How do I swap ball valves for diverters without draining the pool? The equipment is below the pool.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6105.jpeg
    IMG_6105.jpeg
    595 KB · Views: 18
Could I just eliminate the check valve and get rid of everything between the red lines and the install the salt cell and a Y or T to keep using the cleaner return or would you cap that return line?

Yes you can.

I would use a 3 way diverter valve as the T and eliminate both ball valves.

Note that the Intellichlor installation instructions require a check valve between the cell and a heater although we say there is no scientific reason for it.

If you install a Heater Bypass - Further Reading as described the check valve will be there for the bypass.

How do I swap ball valves for diverters without draining the pool? The equipment is below the pool.
You will need to replace the ball valves sooner or later.

Get Flood Plugs to stop up the lines while you work on them.

1717349743500.png
 
Yes you can.

I would use a 3 way diverter valve as the T and eliminate both ball valves.

Note that the Intellichlor installation instructions require a check valve between the cell and a heater although we say there is no scientific reason for it.

If you install a Heater Bypass - Further Reading as described the check valve will be there for the bypass.


You will need to replace the ball valves sooner or later.

Get Flood Plugs to stop up the lines while you work on them.

View attachment 580384
Interesting product, the Flood Plug, but I’m only seeing them in 1.5” and 2” sizes and the piping my large valves are on looks to be 4”. Can I just unthread from the unions on those, albeit while getting soaked and thread in new diverters?
 
Diverters get glued just like this check valve is...

1717945630038.png

I don't see pipe that looks like 3" or 4".

What is the diameter of the pipe?

1717945722142.png
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6314.jpeg
    IMG_6314.jpeg
    275.9 KB · Views: 2

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.