How to drain the pool

ag60135

Gold Supporter
Aug 4, 2024
12
OK
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello TFP,

This is my first year as a pool owner and when we moved into the home/inherited the pool, I found TFP and have been grateful for the forum in maintaining the pool chem-wise. I was glad to see how great liquid chlorine kept my pool sparkling for the two months we had of pool weather after move in. I wanted to enjoy the spa into the fall months so I said I'd roll the dice this winter and keep things running and maintained (plus the cost of water where I'm at is absurd, so draining didn't seem so nice at first). After about early November, I don't think we've even used the spa LOL - and probably a good thing, as come January, I read that corrosion can enter the picture within the heater/combustion chamber when using the heater below about 40-something degrees air/ambient temp--very surprised/disappointed, but understand the logic/condensation issues.

Anyhow, onto my concern and thanks in advance for the support. I appreciate the guidance (or direction to the correct posts/threads) regarding draining my pool. I've attached photos of my pad/equipment.

We're about to hit another hard freeze here in OK, and though we weathered the last one in January where temps hit single digits, I'm concerned this one will be colder for a longer duration and I don't want to risk things this go around. Last month, I "wind-blocked" the pad with some plywood for walls, tarped for cover, and utilized moving blankets for additional insulation...then had a space heater run when I knew the heater wouldn't push the ambient temp above the freeze protection...freeze protection worked well, though I did end up with some thick ice on the surface of the pool and am hoping I didn't get any cracking of the grout at tile level - no tiles cracked/lost that I've observed. This time around we'll have nights below zero and daytime wind chills also in the negative, with over 4 or more days well below freezing.

I'm ready to drain the pool down and pull the drain plugs on my filter, pumps, and heater. I've got about three days before the weather comes. I just can't figure out how to drain the pool with the system I have. I FEEL A LITTLE STUPID. When I took ownership of this pool last August, I obviously and instantly realized I wasn't dealing with sand filtration or easy waste/drain or backwash options. So how does one drain a pool like this one? The control box allows for the draining of the spa into the pool, or the pool into the spa (to fill it I imagine), but is there a way to switch to service mode, release the valve actuators into manual mode, and then turn the valves to a position so that water drains to waste? Or is that a stupid thought to think a pool would be plumbed into my house's wastewater plumbing? (Maybe that would violate a code/push too much water that direction and cause issues to home plumbing).

Am I going to have to get a sump pump/etc. to work water out topside and into the yard/french drains of landscaping/storm drainage along side of house?

Thanks again!
 

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Am I going to have to get a sump pump/etc. to work water out topside and into the yard/french drains of landscaping/storm drainage along side of house?
Yep. Don't try to drain your pool below the skimmer using the pool equipment. Most systems don't allow for it. You run the risk of sucking air and burning up the pump. Invest in a good submersible pump or rent one from Home Depot or Lowe's.
 
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Yep. Don't try to drain your pool below the skimmer using the pool equipment. Most systems don't allow for it. You run the risk of sucking air and burning up the pump. Invest in a good submersible pump or rent one from Home Depot or Lowe's.
Thanks. Yeah, was afraid this would be the case. I’ve got a buddy with a sump pump and an air compressor…will get that ASAP and get started. Nothing but good times! Hah!
 
Realistically you only need to lower the water in the plumbing below the frost line of the upcoming event. That said, I'm not a fan of compressors for emptying the plumbing because you need high volume and low PSI, the exact opposite. Plus, if there is any minute leak, like a shrunk in the cold O-ring, you lose any pressure you build up and it doesnt work.

Here's 2 more options instead :

 
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Realistically you only need to lower the water in the plumbing below the frost line of the upcoming event. That said, I'm not a fan of compressors for emptying the plumbing because you need high volume and low PSI, the exact opposite. Plus, if there is any minute leak, like a shrunk in the cold O-ring, you lose any pressure you build up and it doesnt work.

Here's 2 more options instead :

Thanks Newdude. Looking at those options now.

So I may not have the option of the buddy's stuff (sump pump and air compressor to blow out my pumps/lines) anyhow :/ Because of this, I got on the phone with the company I used to inspect the pool back when we purchased the house. They can get me on the schedule for Monday as a backup, the day before everything hits, in case I can't get things figured out. The one thing they mentioned was that when they close/winterize pools, they no longer recommended draining below the tile line/skimmer due to long-term damage to the plaster. They emphasized they still blow out the lines, but they don't go down "x" amount of inches below the return jets, again due to leaving the plaster exposed. How can they effectively blow the lines out if they don't get the water down that low?
 
Realistically you only need to lower the water in the plumbing below the frost line of the upcoming event. That said, I'm not a fan of compressors for emptying the plumbing because you need high volume and low PSI, the exact opposite. Plus, if there is any minute leak, like a shrunk in the cold O-ring, you lose any pressure you build up and it doesnt work.

Here's 2 more options instead :

Solid write-up - thanks for sharing that. I feel a little less than confident tackling my pad's entire plumbing as you did. I guess I planned on simply covering the equipment with the tarp after I blew/dried the lines/equipment. But I love the shopvac idea on the skimmer. I have plans to build an insulated shed/enclosure for the pad this spring - probably a little overkill for OK, but I know it will give me more peace of mind and overall protect from the elements while still giving access to service/maintenance of the equipment. I know things get much colder there in NY.
 
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The blower they use (a cyclone) is low pressure and you can cap/plug the returns as they bubble out. Or you can use bungee plugs (or duck plugs) that allow the air/water out but seal themselves the second the pressure stops.
. I feel a little less than confident tackling my pad's entire plumbing as you did.
You only need access to the two ends. Everything in the proverbial middle of the pad can remain, and be blown also. Then pull all the drain plugs.
 
The blower they use (a cyclone) is low pressure and you can cap/plug the returns as they bubble out. Or you can use bungee plugs (or duck plugs) that allow the air/water out but seal themselves the second the pressure stops.

You only need access to the two ends. Everything in the proverbial middle of the pad can remain, and be blown also. Then pull all the drain plugs.
Ah, I see (on both parts of your post) - thank you!
 
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