Heater Leak (Pentair MT 175)

uvavi8r

Gold Supporter
Aug 8, 2020
181
Falls Church, VA
It is a Pentair MasterTemp 175, leaking from the mainifold bolts...took the whole thing apart, didn't see any significant water in the combustion chamber. I have heard that water leaking from the manifold bolts is an indication that the heater coil has ruptured, but I am not seeing anything that indicates that inside the combustion chamber. I did see something that looked like a crack on the inside of the manifold (couldn't get a good picture), just wondering if the $180 for a new manifold is the right patch to go down.

Thanks for any advice...I guess the good thing is that I am pretty comfortable breaking down the heater...
 
Have you opened the burner can top?

Connect the manifold to the heat exchanger with the burner can top removed and run the pool through the heater and look for water dripping into the can. The can can look dry with a small leak and the heater evaporating water in the can.

Show us pictures of the heater evaporating exchanger and the can.
 
Have you opened the burner can top?

Connect the manifold to the heat exchanger with the burner can top removed and run the pool through the heater and look for water dripping into the can. The can can look dry with a small leak and the heater evaporating water in the can.

Show us pictures of the heater evaporating exchanger and the can.
Will do...can't do anything until weekend after next...I did pull the burner can off, and sent a snake camera down the exhaust...it was dry for both.
 
Will do...can't do anything until weekend after next...I did pull the burner can off, and sent a snake camera down the exhaust...it was dry for both.
The heat exchanger may not be leaking inside the combustion chamber, but the ends of the tubes may be corroded away and not directing water completely into the manifold. They should protrude about .5" - .75" from the mounting flange, sit inside the holes in the back of the manifold, and are sealed with an individual O ring. The only way to see that is to remove the manifold from its mounting flange.
 
The heat exchanger may not be leaking inside the combustion chamber, but the ends of the tubes may be corroded away and not directing water completely into the manifold. They should protrude about .5" - .75" from the mounting flange, sit inside the holes in the back of the manifold, and are sealed with an individual O ring. The only way to see that is to remove the manifold from its mounting flange.
I took the whole heater down to parade rest, removed the lid, took the manifold off (the coils looked fine), I bought the manifold kit and am going to replace it this weekend (it comes with new o rings and gaskets) - fingers crossed that works. I will post the results here...if that doesn't fix it, time to buy the coil.
 
So, the manifold was the leak...here is the one with the crack
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Replacing it was pretty straight forward and the manifold kit has new gaskets and bolts. Replaced it and no leaks (at least for the two hours that I ran it).

One thing to note, I was having trouble getting it to fire once it was all put back together, so I followed the trouble shooting guide. Well, evidently when I pulled the combustion lid off I broke the ignitor...I wish I would have been smarted and pulled that out (it is super easy) before taking the combustion lid off. So, a new ignitor is on the way and it should fix the issue. Over all, pretty satisfied with the repair.
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So, the manifold was the leak...here is the one with the crack
View attachment 632514
Replacing it was pretty straight forward and the manifold kit has new gaskets and bolts. Replaced it and no leaks (at least for the two hours that I ran it).

One thing to note, I was having trouble getting it to fire once it was all put back together, so I followed the trouble shooting guide. Well, evidently when I pulled the combustion lid off I broke the ignitor...I wish I would have been smarted and pulled that out (it is super easy) before taking the combustion lid off. So, a new ignitor is on the way and it should fix the issue. Over all, pretty satisfied with the repair.
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Those tubes look great. Good job.