Hayworth Multiport valve repair vs. replacement

[PerpetuallyClueless]

I am new here, and the first thing I need to do as a new pool owner is fix the valve coming out of the filter. Right now, no matter what setting the valve is on, water comes out the backwash port. The pool guy that came out to take a look said these types of valves are difficult to maintain and suggested I replace it with a push/pull valve. Some commenters here said that's maybe not the best idea, so I did some reading tonight, and it seems like they are actually fairly easy to repair or replace, and possibly don't even cost as much as he said it would (his SWAG was ~$350). It seems like the common issue with this is the gasket, and just getting a new one might fix the issue. Worst case scenario, the whole top section of the valve needs to be replaced, again, seems fairly simple. What would you fine people suggest? Here is the valve (I can get other pictures from different angles if it helps):

 

[jblizzle]

All you have to do is pull those 8 screws to see the spider gasket (careful to catch the nuts on the bottom that may fall out). Might be some debris caught in there preventing a seal. Or might just need to pull the gasket out and replace it. Use a screw driver to scrape any old gasket material out.

Cover it good with silicone grease. And put the top back on (align the screw holes with the flat edge) and tighten it up (criss cross manner).

Best to try not to turn it very often and when you do, always turn in the same direction.
And never turn it with the pump running.

 

[JamesW]

The top is on backwards.

See the little lobes at each screw and one lobe has a flat spot to identify the correct orientation of the top?

This reverses everything. However, this can work if the handle is also reversed.

In any case, something seems off.

You can remove the top and check everything.

Then, disassemble the top by punching out the pin in the handle. Then clean and lubricate everything.

How to service, Lube repair a Hayward multi port valve from a swimming pool sand filter Vari flo - YouTube

Do you have a picture of the system?

 

[PerpetuallyClueless]

Here is a picture of the whole system:

 

[JamesW]

Ok, when was the last time the multiport was taken apart?

What is the filter model number?

I would take the multiport apart to check everything and clean and lube everything like it shows in the video and figure out why the top part is installed backwards.

 

[PerpetuallyClueless]

Thanks for the video link. That looks easy enough. I have no idea when it was last taken apart. I think the model number is in that picture, which reads SP715XR50. Do I have to do anything with the other valves or any other parts of the system, other than making sure the pump doesn't come on while servicing?

 

[JamesW]

The SP715XR50 is the multiport model number. The filter model number should be on the filter.

You don't want to remove the multiport from the filter like it shows in the video.

Just remove the screws and take out the whole top assembly.

Punch out the handle pin to take the top part apart. Don't use too much force.

Sometimes the pin is hard to remove. Sometimes it punches out easier one way or the other.

Take a picture of the inside of the multiport so we can see if it's the right valve.

 

[PerpetuallyClueless]

Whoops, my mistake. I'm not sure what the model is on the filter. It doesn't seem to be marked, unless it's 31246?

 

[JamesW]

Ok, I think that you have a DE4820.

 

[Demegrad9]

Cover it good with silicone grease. And put the top back on (align the screw holes with the flat edge) and tighten it up (criss cross manner).

Just a little additional advice, when tightening up those screws, do it by hand and be careful. That plastic is can get pretty brittle sitting outside in the sun over the years and if you crack the housing it will almost certainly leak and at that point you'll pretty much have to replace the whole valve.

 

[jblizzle]

Hmmm. I have never punched out the pin on the handle and pulled it apart. Is that worth doing?

 

[JamesW]

The diverter stem oring gets dry and makes the handle hard to turn. It also prevents the diverter from going up and down smoothly.

If the diverter doesn't make secure contact with the spider gasket, you can get a leak. It's definitely worth doing.

The pin can be tight and is sometimes hard to punch out. So, you have to be careful.

 

[jblizzle]

Well mine is certainly stiff but I try not to turn it ever.

 

[proavia]

I have found it easier to pop the pin out and remove the handle before unscrewing the cover. Mine has 2 o-rings on the diverter stem. They prevent water from leaking thru the cover at the stem. Even if you don't have a leak there, it's good to remove diverter from cover - clean the area and relube.

 

[tstex]

Ok, I think that you have a DE4820.

James, look under the bottom right of the "6" of the serial number and you see DE2420 inscribed vertically Wouldn't this describe the model # or is there something else that provides this information? thanks

 

[JamesW]

I think that DE2420L is the part number for the label. L = Label.

The box next to filter model should be checked, but it isn't.

There might be another label that identifies the filter model number.

 

[tstex]

I think that DE2420L is the part number for the label.

The box next to filter model should be checked, but it isn't.

There might be another label that identifies the filter model number.

Ok, fair enough. Based on this link, it should be there somewhere if OP can find it?

Hayward Pool Products - Model and Serial Number Identification Help

PS - googled DE and serial number and got this; give that man a cigar !!!!

Pro-Grid | Filters | In Ground Pool Filters - Hayward Pool Products

 

[PerpetuallyClueless]

I took apart the valve. Some of the bolts were completely rusted and I had to cut them off with a hacksaw. The white plastic ring below the handle is broken. It appears to be missing one of the metal rings that go next to the spring. The o-rings seem like they would be okay with some lube. The gasket was sticking up in a couple places which would explain the leaking.

As for the installation being backwards, well the handle was also backwards, so I think that evens it out so it actually functioned correctly right?

Pictures are below. Based on all I said and your advice, should I just buy a new one of these, or would a trip to the hardware store be sufficient to get this working again? Can you even buy those white plastic rings by themselves?

 

[JamesW]

SPX0710Z16 Non-Metallic Bearing (White ring under handle)
SPX0715Z1 Cover O-Ring.
SPX0735GA O-Ring/Teflon Shaft Seal.
SPX0710Z62 Spring Washers (Set of 2).
SPX0715D Valve Seat Gasket (spoke gasket).
Screws are stainless and can be bought at any hardware store.
Those are parts.

You can get the whole new top assembly, but you would still need the spoke gasket.
SPX0715BA3 Key, Cover and Handle Assembly, Black.

Or, you could do all new valve if you wanted to go that way.

The reversed handle and lid did cancel out and should have worked correctly. However, you can now put it back together correctly.

 

[PerpetuallyClueless]

Will these products be okay to use? The plumber's grease for the o-rings in the valve, and the silicone spray for the large o-ring on the filter between the top and bottom shell? If not, where do I buy the correct stuff? I searched at Home Depot and could not find anything suitable and the employees there were no help at all.