Hayward Pool Pump Humming, Not Starting

[ugadawgs311]

Hello. I have a Hayward Superpump that recently started tripping my electrical breaker. When I restart the pump, the pump hums for about 5-10 seconds, then makes a "click" sound, and the breaker trips again. I read online that a common cause of this is a bad capacitor, so I replaced mine, but I still have the same problem. I've noticed that the impeller is very difficult to move by hand or with a screwdriver. I've attempted to clear any debris from the impeller, and I didn't find anything in there, so I doubt there is anything clogging the impeller, but maybe there is something deep inside.

Has anyone had issues like this or know of any solutions?

Thanks!

 

[ugadawgs311]

Moved from HERE

I’m having the same issue as the OP. I replaced the capacitor, but the pump still hums for about 5-10 seconds, then trips the breaker. The impeller is difficult to turn, and it might be stuck, but I’d like to fix the pump without having to take the whole pump apart if possible. Any help is appreciated!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Much like the other pool owner having a similar issue, I would post a pic of the motor label so we can see exactly what type of motor was installed by Hayward. Some motors have one cap, some have two, and some have none.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Here is a picture of my motor label and the back of the pump with the cover off. Please let me know if you need additional pictures. Thanks!

 

[Texas Splash]

Thanks for the pics. Maybe one more pic of the label a bit closer please? So we can see the model and serial numbers clearly to get an idea of the age of that motor. Since you already replaced the cap and a physical grab of the impeller indicates it may be a bit tight, I'd like to ask @mas985 if he has any other thoughts on the issue.

Also curious (not related to the original problem) was there ever a ground wire connected to that bond lug on the motor?

 

[mas985]

If the impeller is hard to move, then it could be either interference of the impeller or bad bearings.

Was the pump loud before failure?

Separate the motor/impeller from the wet end to inspect the impeller. After removing, rotate the impeller. If it is still hard to turn, then it is most likely bad bearings which requires replacement or motor replacement.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Thanks for the help! I was able to zoom in and find the following info:

• Model: C48K2N143B1
• Serial #: 34915CHCL030003156

Based on that, I think the motor was manufactured in 2015. Does that sound accurate?

@Texas Splash - is the "bond lug" you're referring to the green screw? I wasn't aware of any ground wire within the motor cap, but that doesn't mean that it didn't fall off at some point.

@mas985 No, the pump didn't make any loud noises before failure. It seemed to be running normally until one day I noticed that it had tripped the breaker. Ever since, every time I reset the breaker and turn on the pump, I get a humming sound for 5-10 seconds, then a "click" sound, and the breaker trips again without the motor ever fully firing up.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

[Texas Splash]

So it looks like that motor is about six years old. Right in that average time frame of motors showing signs of wear or failure. As Mark noted, it may be worth the time to pull the wet/dry ends apart to get a better look at that impeller. We haven't said it, but who knows, maybe your replacement cap was also bad? Maybe a stretch, but we've all had "new" parts be bad right out of the box.

As for the bond lung, it's on the outside casing, secured by the screw in your first pic.

 

[ugadawgs311]

I was hoping my pump would be closer to the 8-10 year age before needing to be replaced, but if 6 years is within a reasonable age of replacement, then that's just how the cards fall this time.

To pull the "wet/dry ends" as you mentioned, would that just be removing the pump from the black housing? Seems like all I'd need to do is remove the 4 bolts towards the top of the pump (close to the "Hayward" logo) in the first picture I uploaded. Does that sound right?

Also, I tried accessing the motor shaft from the back, and it looks like it's tucked behind the copper V-shaped piece in the second picture. Is there any point in removing the V-shaped piece to access the shaft, or am I better off accessing the impeller from the front end?

Thanks!

 

[mas985]

Yes, to remove the housing remove the 4 bolts. That is the best way to diagnose the problem.

 

[willygee]

Going too jump in here. The V shaped unit is your starter winding contacts which are closed for a second or less and are held open by the centrifugal unit attached to the end of your motor shaft once full rpm occurs. Your problem as above comments have suggested seems to be rotating resistance which should be easy to diagnose once you pull motor from the wet end. Keep us posted.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Yes, to remove the housing remove the 4 bolts. That is the best way to diagnose the problem.

Is this safe to do with the pump still connected to a power supply? The motor is turned off and the breaker is also shut off, but the pump is still connected with 2 wires towards the back of the unit.

 

[mas985]

If the break is off, it is ok to remove.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Well I separated the wet end from the motor (see attached pics). The impeller was easy to move by hand clockwise and counterclockwise. The motor looks like it has a lot of rust and corrosion on the bottom though.

One other interesting thing: when I turn my breaker on, the breaker trips after about 5 seconds no matter if the pump is on or off. Before, I could turn the breaker on and it would stay on until I turned the pump on, then it would trip. Do I have a possible electrical issue now?

I think this may be beyond my pay grade at this point. I may see if my home warranty will cover a repair or replacement.

 

[willygee]

A qualified electrician should probably get involved.

 

[ugadawgs311]

A qualified electrician should probably get involved.

No I don’t believe it was ever bonded. I just found a picture of the pump from my home inspection before moving in, and there didn’t appear to be any bonding.

Is the large amount of rust and corrosion on the bottom of the motor a big cause for concern? It looks pretty gnarly.. ha

 

[wireform]

Just by the look at the motor condition this a goner in my book. There seems to have been water leaking at some point most likely a shaft seal for that damage and usually it's a bearing noise but you say there was none. The electrical hook up also seems subpar with it not being connected to the motor housing.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Finally made the call into my home warranty company, and they scheduled a pool company to come take a look at the motor and pump. The tech that came out believes the motor is likely dead at this point, so they’ll be replacing it with a new, variable speed motor.

Should I expect any major differences with the variable speed pump once it’s installed?

 

[Texas Splash]

Should I expect any major differences with the variable speed pump once it’s installed

Just a small learning curve dialing-in a good schedule for rpms throughout the day. Should be nice and quiet. Hope the install goes well.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Just a small learning curve dialing-in a good schedule for rpms throughout the day. Should be nice and quiet. Hope the install goes well.

Gotcha, thanks! I wasn’t too happy about how expensive the install will cost (they’re doing some electrical work too), but based on the appearance and age of the pump, it’s probably best to get it replaced now. Especially with the home warranty covering most of the cost.