Hello all! I have a Hayward HP21104T heat pump that seemed to stop heating late last season. Since the swimming season was just about over I had decided to not address it until I opened again this year. Well, here we are. Everything runs and no error codes are coming up but it does not heat the pool. I cleaned out everything and replaced the cartridge filters to ensure good water flow, no luck. I have only turned on the heater on the two higher temperature days that we have had in New England (1 day a couple of weeks ago and yesterday when it reached 80 for a while). Yesterday the temperature increased 2 degrees from 68 to barely 70 while running for 4+ hours at 80 degrees (solar blanket is on). I hosed down the sides of the heater to remove any pollen that may have been there. There is no discernable difference in air temperature coming from fan of the heater, nor any difference in the water temperature coming from the return line. Since it is running but not heating I assume low refrigerant but the manual indicates that there is a code thrown for low coolant. Don't know if I should call an electrician or an HVAC person. Had anyone seen this type of thing or have any ideas? Thanks!
Hayward HP21104T running but not heating
- Thread starter RNC10
- Start date
Hi, welcome to TFP! Have you tried the troubleshooting on page 15 of this manual? http://www.haywardnet.com/pdfs/Heatpump-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf
If you are not comfortable doing these tests you can call tech support for a recommendation of who to call to repair the unit. Tech Support 908-355-7995
If you are not comfortable doing these tests you can call tech support for a recommendation of who to call to repair the unit. Tech Support 908-355-7995
Thanks so much! I may try to tackle the diagnostic myself. Hayward doesn't seem to have any authorized service people within 90 minutes or so from me. I had someone come out and replace a switch last season to the tune of $700. So if I can find something to swap myself that would work.
Do you have automation?
Can you check to see how much current the heat pump is using?
Is the compressor running?
Can you check to see how much current the heat pump is using?
Is the compressor running?
No automation set up. Just manual button.
From my recollection the compressor is supposed to kick on after the fan, correct? The fan goes on but nothing kicks in after that.
I have a multi meter. How could I determine the current draw of the unit? If that would still be helpful in this situation.
Thanks so much!
From my recollection the compressor is supposed to kick on after the fan, correct? The fan goes on but nothing kicks in after that.
I have a multi meter. How could I determine the current draw of the unit? If that would still be helpful in this situation.
Thanks so much!
If only the fan is coming on and not the compressor, it indicates a problem that should display an error code.
Does it make any noise like anything other than the fan is trying to start?
Check the capacitor to see if it looks damaged.
It might be a bad contactor.
There are multiple videos on Youtube that show how to troubleshoot a heat pump not starting if you feel comfortable doing that.
Does it make any noise like anything other than the fan is trying to start?
Check the capacitor to see if it looks damaged.
It might be a bad contactor.
There are multiple videos on Youtube that show how to troubleshoot a heat pump not starting if you feel comfortable doing that.
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If you have a meter check the amp draw while running. If it's not pulling then the compressor isn't running and the fan is just blowing air. They dont always trip a code
Would there generally be a delay when the compressor kicks in from when I hit the button. I am hearing a clunk sound at the same time that the fan goes on. My recollection is that there was a delay from when the compressor kicks in but maybe not. I also just noticed that there is an open loop in the plumbing from when the pool was opened by the pool company. The valves both above and below the chlorine generator were open. That could be the issue as not all the water is reaching the heater.
That looks ok.
Check out the videos on Youtube that show how to diagnose heat pump not starting.
Check out the videos on Youtube that show how to diagnose heat pump not starting.
Sorry, stupid me. The picture that I posted was after I closed the lower valve. I couldn't get a low enough resolution to be able to post and I grabbed the wrong one. This is what it looked like after the pool company opened it. The lower valve was open.
Attachments
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,022
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The valve in this post is set wrong and water is bypassing the heater which may be causing the problems.
The valves in post 11 is correct for all water to flow through the heater.
Closing the valve didn't end up working. Called someone out and it ended up being a fried contactor. HVAC tech speculated that the aluminum wiring that is used runs hotter and could have been the cause. Didn't know for sure, though. Just wanted to update the post for anyone down the road. Thanks everyone for your help!
Thanks for the update.
There was another thread recently with a burned up contactor.
I will try to find the thread.
Maybe there's a defect that needs to be addressed by the manufacturer.
The damage might have been caused by running the heat pump with no flow.
In my opinion, they need to put actual flow meters on heaters and not just pressure switches.
A differential pressure switch would work by measuring the pressure differential between the inlet and outlet.
As long as the inlet pressure was sufficiently higher than the outlet pressure, there should be flow.
There was another thread recently with a burned up contactor.
I will try to find the thread.
Maybe there's a defect that needs to be addressed by the manufacturer.
The damage might have been caused by running the heat pump with no flow.
In my opinion, they need to put actual flow meters on heaters and not just pressure switches.
A differential pressure switch would work by measuring the pressure differential between the inlet and outlet.
As long as the inlet pressure was sufficiently higher than the outlet pressure, there should be flow.
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