Hayward aqua rite 900 acting super strange, lots of lights blinking

JenniferMarie90

Well-known member
Feb 16, 2021
188
Las Vegas, NV
Pool Size
14500
Surface
Plaster
Hey friends. This is my second summer with my pool and now I’m having some strange issues with my SWG. The pump is off but the generating button is solid green the check salt is blinking red (yet my salt is over 2700 ppm) and the inspect cell is blinking yellow. I took the salt cell out and cleaned it. I shut the power off to the SWG completely and brought it back. It went back to normal for a bit after that but here we are again. it’s still producing chlorine when I test I have chlorine. But I can’t seem to get these lights to read normal. I noticed my solar cover had released a lot of plastic bubbles that my robot was picking up and there was some in my strainer basket as well. I’m worried maybe that did some thing? I did order a new flow switch because I’m not sure why the Generating button is solid when there’s no flow. Anyone have these problems before?
 
First of all your SWG is not properly wired. The SWG should not be powered when your pump is off. You need to have the SWG on a timer that is set to the same runtimes as the VS pump.

And as you observed you need to replace your flow switch.

With no water flow and the SWG powered and trying to generate it is confusing the salt calculations.

So fix the flow switch and power off the SWG when the pump is not running. Then see how the SWG operates when turned on only after the pump is running.
 
First of all your SWG is not properly wired. The SWG should not be powered when your pump is off. You need to have the SWG on a timer that is set to the same runtimes as the VS pump.

And as you observed you need to replace your flow switch.

With no water flow and the SWG powered and trying to generate it is confusing the salt calculations.

So fix the flow switch and power off the SWG when the pump is not running. Then see how the SWG operates when turned on only after the pump is running.
Interesting. Is that wiring something I can do? My PB didn’t wire it that way, I wonder why ugh
 
Sorry I went MIA for a little while. I change the flow switch and it seemed to solve my problem. Except now it’s back. When my pump is not running the Generating button is green and My chlorine levels are very high. See pics for wiring1320FF63-14BE-4173-8651-5F4DF954DF43.jpegE7C854C4-6BD4-4741-89C7-AFA0CF3026E3.jpeg
 

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As was previously mentioned, you need to ensure that the Aqua Rite isn't powered when the pump is off. When you move the lever on the Intermatic clock does it turn off?
 
As was previously mentioned, you need to ensure that the Aqua Rite isn't powered when the pump is off. When you move the lever on the Intermatic clock does it turn off?
No, the intermatic clock doesn't seem to be paired with this at all. Like I have the pump scheduled to come on twice a day. Should I switch that to once a day and set that clock to the same time? So should that power button on the Aquarite NOT be green if the pump is off? Also, sorry dumb question, but this issue with the power being on, that could cause the issue I'm having? Or will it just help avoid it?
 
No, the intermatic clock doesn't seem to be paired with this at all. Like I have the pump scheduled to come on twice a day. Should I switch that to once a day and set that clock to the same time? So should that power button on the Aquarite NOT be green if the pump is off?

1664509345532-png.455885

Also, sorry dumb question, but this issue with the power being on, that could cause the issue I'm having? Or will it just help avoid it?

Yes, the cell powered on when the pump is of can cause various problems.

I also suspect you have a bad flow switch.
 

Display Showing Incorrect Characters or Settings Randomly Change.​

Most likely the display board is not making secure contact with the pins.

Reseat the board:

  • Turn off power.
  • Remove display.
  • Reinstall the small display board. It snaps in place on plastic standoff pins. You have to align the metal connection wires into the correct holes in the board.
  • Check all diagnostics.
Check to make sure that the T-Cell type is correct in diagnostics. When the pins don't make good contact, the settings randomly change and the screen can get jumbled.

If the T-cell type gets on the wrong setting, the salt reading will be wrong.

 

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1664509345532-png.455885



Yes, the cell powered on when the pump is of can cause various problems.

I also suspect you have a bad flow switch.
I just changed the flow switch out but it was from Amazon so it could be bad already. I called Hayward and they said it’s either the flow switch or the board. He didn’t seem super concerned with the panel being on or off but I’m going to fix that. I appreciate the help. I’m going to fix the timer and probably change the flow switch again and if that doesn’t work I’ll change the board.
 
So what is connected to the Intermatic timer? There are no time switch trippers attached so it's on constantly.
Correct, my husband and I just noticed that too, the bi time switch trippers. So my aqua rite panel always says “power” on. It’s been like this for two years (ugh) so maybe it’s finally starting to cause an issue.
 
I just changed the flow switch out but it was from Amazon so it could be bad already. I called Hayward and they said it’s either the flow switch or the board. He didn’t seem super concerned with the panel being on or off but I’m going to fix that. I appreciate the help. I’m going to fix the timer and probably change the flow switch again and if that doesn’t work I’ll change the board.
If you stick with us and do some diagnostics step by step we can probably save you some money versus shotgunning parts at it.

Do you have a multimeter?
 
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So now that you have your Aquarite powering ON and OFF with the pump what problems remain?

An easy test for the flow switch now is with the pump running disconnect the flow switch wire going into the telephone like connector on the bottom of the box. Do you get the NO FLOW light with the wire disconnected? And then does the NO FLOW light go off if you reconnect the wire? If so your flow switch and board are good.
 
So now that you have your Aquarite powering ON and OFF with the pump what problems remain?

An easy test for the flow switch now is with the pump running disconnect the flow switch wire going into the telephone like connector on the bottom of the box. Do you get the NO FLOW light with the wire disconnected? And then does the NO FLOW light go off if you reconnect the wire? If so your flow switch and board are good.
Hi there! Ok so I tried
So now that you have your Aquarite powering ON and OFF with the pump what problems remain?

An easy test for the flow switch now is with the pump running disconnect the flow switch wire going into the telephone like connector on the bottom of the box. Do you get the NO FLOW light with the wire disconnected? And then does the NO FLOW light go off if you reconnect the wire? If so your flow switch and board are good.
Hi there! Ok I performed the test you suggested and it worked fine. Thankfully. I am having an issue where my salt displayed says 5600. I tried resetting twice and it still says 5600. I did a manual test and i think it looks closer to 4000 than 5000 so I think that might be inaccurate. But I guess it could be 5000 tho I’m not sure how the heck that happened when just three months ago it was 3000. Ugh. I also had a blinking inspect cell but I just cleaned it a month ago so I reset that and it seems to have gone away.C7FB5087-4485-4B58-8DEB-2817FE438ED2.jpeg2B37C307-1AC5-4D45-9E68-24D7A20D28FC.jpeg
 
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