A few months ago, I found that I had a fairly small leak in the suction line between my skimmer and pump and using the closed loop method, I had reasonable success in sealing it with Fix A Leak. At least, it was sealed for approximately three and a half months!
The pool water level has started dropping slowly again and after some more pressure testing, I’ve identified the skimmer line as being at fault again. I had previously tried adding compressed air to try and pinpoint the leak position but had difficulty in hearing it due to the volume of traffic close by. I know some folks don’t recommend using Fix A Leak but I felt it might be worth another attempt and started doing some more online research.
I came across a method on the website run by the company known as 'In the Swim', where they quote a Marlig representative they spoke to at a pool trade show event. Different methods are indicated, including the following extract from their webpage at https://intheswim.com/blog/using-fix-a-leak-to-fix-pool-leaks.html. I found this interesting as it is not mentioned on Marlig’s website, although I have emailed them for comments. In the meantime, I would like to hear from anyone who has actually tried this pressurized method, as follows.
"CRACKS OR VOIDS IN PVC PIPE
When you have isolated your pool leak, through a series of if-then testing, down to one or two particular plumbing lines, you can use Fix-A-Leak to repair cracked pipes or fittings, when damage is not extensive. Again, the best repair would be to isolate the near exact location, using listening devices, and then cut the deck, dig down and repair the pipe, or abandon an old line and connect a new line from the break, back to the equipment pad. However, if you want to use Fix-A-Leak to seal up underground plumbing cracks, it does work when applied using what the manufacturer Marlig refers to as 'reversing the water flow'.
1. Cut the pipe that is leaking at the equipment, at a location that allows you to reconnect easily later, and in a way that you can slip a hose inside of the pipe, which may mean removing a few inches of pipe, or cutting more than one pipe, so the suction manifold can be moved aside.
2. Isolate the section of pipe by plugging the other end of the pipe, at the pool. For threaded 1.5" skimmers, returns or drains, use a SP1022C plug with o-ring, or use a #8 or #9 winter expansion plug, to plug the pool end of the pipe. For 2" lines use a #9 or #10 winter plug. Be sure that a tapered rubber plug is very tight, use pliers on the wing nut if needed.
3. Fill the pipe with water from a garden hose, and after shaking well, add 1/2 bottle (16 oz) of Fix-A-Leak directly to the pipe where you cut the pipe, just pour it in there.
4. Connect a Drain King to your garden hose, and insert it into the pipe. Turn on the hose spigot very softly, about 1/4 way, just enough so the Drain King expands to fit the pipe, and pressurizes the line to between 5 - 10 psi. Allow the hose to run at a low pressure for several hours. Shut off the water and add another half bottle (16 oz) of Fix-A-Leak, and repeat the process again but this time increase water flow to 1/2 way open for thirty (30) minutes, then 3/4 open for 30 minutes, followed by fully open for another hour, with pressure in the 10-20 psi range.
5. Remove the Drain King, fill the pipe with water and mark water level. Cover to prevent evaporation, and check on it again in 24 hours. If water level has dropped, repeat treatment again. If water level is stable and holding, allow it to set for another 24 hours, then reassemble plumbing, remove plug(s) in pool, and start up filter system again.
In this process you are using the water pressure of the Drain King to force the emulsion into the crack in the pipe, slowly at first, and then eventually with more pressure, as the layers build up.
You don't have to use a Drain King to pressurize the line, you could also use plumbing fittings to create a pressure testing stick or hose adapter rig, or you don't even have to use water, you can use an air compressor to pressurize the line to between 5-10 psi initially, then up to 10-20 psi afterwards.
And, you don't even need to cut the pipe, as long as you can disassemble a valve, or use a long hose and funnel to deliver the Fix-A-Leak into the pipe, and insert the Drain King into the pump (facing towards the pool). then use the valves to pressurize only the one specific line."
I should add that I would not be using a Drain King as I already have the pressurization rig and instead of checking the level in Step # 5, I would leave the pipe pressurized to about 10psi to check for leaks. This is because the injection point is in the horizontal pipe which normally is connected to the pump. Sorry for the extra long post but I wanted to give as much info as possible. Thanks.
The pool water level has started dropping slowly again and after some more pressure testing, I’ve identified the skimmer line as being at fault again. I had previously tried adding compressed air to try and pinpoint the leak position but had difficulty in hearing it due to the volume of traffic close by. I know some folks don’t recommend using Fix A Leak but I felt it might be worth another attempt and started doing some more online research.
I came across a method on the website run by the company known as 'In the Swim', where they quote a Marlig representative they spoke to at a pool trade show event. Different methods are indicated, including the following extract from their webpage at https://intheswim.com/blog/using-fix-a-leak-to-fix-pool-leaks.html. I found this interesting as it is not mentioned on Marlig’s website, although I have emailed them for comments. In the meantime, I would like to hear from anyone who has actually tried this pressurized method, as follows.
"CRACKS OR VOIDS IN PVC PIPE
When you have isolated your pool leak, through a series of if-then testing, down to one or two particular plumbing lines, you can use Fix-A-Leak to repair cracked pipes or fittings, when damage is not extensive. Again, the best repair would be to isolate the near exact location, using listening devices, and then cut the deck, dig down and repair the pipe, or abandon an old line and connect a new line from the break, back to the equipment pad. However, if you want to use Fix-A-Leak to seal up underground plumbing cracks, it does work when applied using what the manufacturer Marlig refers to as 'reversing the water flow'.
1. Cut the pipe that is leaking at the equipment, at a location that allows you to reconnect easily later, and in a way that you can slip a hose inside of the pipe, which may mean removing a few inches of pipe, or cutting more than one pipe, so the suction manifold can be moved aside.
2. Isolate the section of pipe by plugging the other end of the pipe, at the pool. For threaded 1.5" skimmers, returns or drains, use a SP1022C plug with o-ring, or use a #8 or #9 winter expansion plug, to plug the pool end of the pipe. For 2" lines use a #9 or #10 winter plug. Be sure that a tapered rubber plug is very tight, use pliers on the wing nut if needed.
3. Fill the pipe with water from a garden hose, and after shaking well, add 1/2 bottle (16 oz) of Fix-A-Leak directly to the pipe where you cut the pipe, just pour it in there.
4. Connect a Drain King to your garden hose, and insert it into the pipe. Turn on the hose spigot very softly, about 1/4 way, just enough so the Drain King expands to fit the pipe, and pressurizes the line to between 5 - 10 psi. Allow the hose to run at a low pressure for several hours. Shut off the water and add another half bottle (16 oz) of Fix-A-Leak, and repeat the process again but this time increase water flow to 1/2 way open for thirty (30) minutes, then 3/4 open for 30 minutes, followed by fully open for another hour, with pressure in the 10-20 psi range.
5. Remove the Drain King, fill the pipe with water and mark water level. Cover to prevent evaporation, and check on it again in 24 hours. If water level has dropped, repeat treatment again. If water level is stable and holding, allow it to set for another 24 hours, then reassemble plumbing, remove plug(s) in pool, and start up filter system again.
In this process you are using the water pressure of the Drain King to force the emulsion into the crack in the pipe, slowly at first, and then eventually with more pressure, as the layers build up.
You don't have to use a Drain King to pressurize the line, you could also use plumbing fittings to create a pressure testing stick or hose adapter rig, or you don't even have to use water, you can use an air compressor to pressurize the line to between 5-10 psi initially, then up to 10-20 psi afterwards.
And, you don't even need to cut the pipe, as long as you can disassemble a valve, or use a long hose and funnel to deliver the Fix-A-Leak into the pipe, and insert the Drain King into the pump (facing towards the pool). then use the valves to pressurize only the one specific line."
I should add that I would not be using a Drain King as I already have the pressurization rig and instead of checking the level in Step # 5, I would leave the pipe pressurized to about 10psi to check for leaks. This is because the injection point is in the horizontal pipe which normally is connected to the pump. Sorry for the extra long post but I wanted to give as much info as possible. Thanks.
