Fiberglass pool water level at closing

[schwim123]

Our pool was professionally winterized by a different pool company this year who did not lower the water level at closing. We’ve got a fiberglass pool with a mesh cover and tile to protect so I’m annoyed that they did didn’t pump water out as expected since I paid them $400 to winterize it.

Before we pump water out, I have a few questions.

1. How low can we safely lower the water level since we have a fiberglass pool with waterline tile? Could we safely lower ithe water level 4-6 inches below the bottom of the tiles so we only have to drain water out every month or two to keep the water below the tiles? Our pool appears to be settling some so I don’t want to drain it below the returns like many people do.
2. Since we just added polyquat a few days ago and water temperature isn’t below 60 yet, should we wait to lower the water level so we aren’t pumping any algaecide that might not have fully dissolved yet? Or should we go ahead and lower it now since freezing night time temps are expected a few days next week?
3. Do automatic sump pumps that you leave inside the pool on a step work well or are they prone to failure? It’s annoying to have to pump water out manually every month or two but I’d be willing to continue doing this if these automatic pumps are prone to failure.

 

[ajw22]

1. How low can we safely lower the water level since we have a fiberglass pool with waterline tile? Could we safely lower ithe water level 4-6 inches below the bottom of the tiles so we only have to drain water out every month or two to keep the water below the tiles? Our pool appears to be settling some so I don’t want to drain it below the returns like many people do.

There is no one standard answer for what is safe for your pool. It depends on the possible ground water level you can have around your pool and only you have any idea of that.

The more water you have in your pool the more weight holding the pool into the ground preventing ground water from popping it out.

Your pool company wanted no liability for your pool popping out so they did not drain any water.

You need to decide on your comfort of risk versus convenience.

2. Since we just added polyquat a few days ago and water temperature isn’t below 60 yet, should we wait to lower the water level so we aren’t pumping any algaecide that might not have fully dissolved yet?

I would not worry about that.

Or should we go ahead and lower it now since freezing night time temps are expected a few days next week?

What matters is your water temperature, not the night time air temperature. Your pool is a big thermal sink and it will take many days of cold day and night time temperatures to drop the water temperature close to freezing.

Monitor your water temps to determine when you really need to worry about surface ice in your pool.

3. Do automatic sump pumps that you leave inside the pool on a step work well or are they prone to failure? It’s annoying to have to pump water out manually every month or two but I’d be willing to continue doing this if these automatic pumps are prone to failure.

Leaving a submersible pump in the pool can create rust stains. Cheap submersible pumps are not designed for continuous submerged applications. They are designed as point of use water removal devices. The cheap ones often have externally exposed metal screens that are not high quality stainless steel. These pumps are not designed for moving water over long periods of time and pool water can easily become corrosive towards metals when chlorine and chloride are present.

 

[schwim123]

There is no one standard answer for what is safe for your pool. It depends on the possible ground water level you can have around your pool and only you have any idea of that.

The more water you have in your pool the more weight holding the pool into the ground preventing ground water from popping it out.

Your pool company wanted no liability for your pool popping out so they did not drain any water.

You need to decide on your comfort of risk versus convenience.



I would not worry about that.



What matters is your water temperature, not the night time air temperature. Your pool is a big thermal sink and it will take many days of cold day and night time temperatures to drop the water temperature close to freezing.

Monitor your water temps to determine when you really need to worry about surface ice in your pool.


Leaving a submersible pump in the pool can create rust stains. Cheap submersible pumps are not designed for continuous submerged applications. They are designed as point of use water removal devices. The cheap ones often have externally exposed metal screens that are not high quality stainless steel. These pumps are not designed for moving water over long periods of time and pool water can easily become corrosive towards metals when chlorine and chloride are present.

Thanks for the advice. I think I will play it safe and lower the water level 3-4 inches below the tiles since I did this last year without any problems and plan on manually draining it once a month like I did last year. If the surface of the water freezes over later his winter, can I break through the ice to drain it with most cheap submersible pumps or can I only drain water out if the surface of the water hasn’t frozen over? Our water didn’t freeze over last year because we had a mild winter but the weather experts are predicting a colder winter this year.

 

[ajw22]

Use warm spells to check the water level and drain water to keep it below the tile line.

You should not get yourself into a situation where you have ice on the pool surface and the water is on the tile since by then the damage may be done with ice freezing behind the tile and popping it off or loosening it.

When a freeze event is forecast is the time to check the water level and adjust it as necessary.