Hi, I'm a newb at learning about pool equipment. We've had a pool for the last three summers, but I've been so frustrated with pool companies and everyone is telling me something different that its very challenging to get up to speed. I'm glad I found this forum because I'm hoping to get some help and start figuring everything out so I can do things on my own. My latest issue is that my pool company came to service my pool and said that the chlorine levels were high and not just a little high. He said TCL was 20 which I believe is off the charts. I have no idea why this happened. I do not put chemicals in my pool, I leave this up to the pool company. Two weeks prior I don't see a report on the chlorine level, but before that it was in the normal range. What could cause this to happen? He also noted that "Salt cell production rate was set to 45% in pool mode and 40% in spa mode so lowered both settings to a production rate of 6% so chlorine would be maintained at a safe level that is also appropriate for sanitizing pools volume." Any thoughts or concerns as to why this would happen? As I mentioned, no settings have been changed prior to their visit THanks so much for any thoughts or suggestions!!!
Extremely high chlorine level
- Thread starter christinasam
- Start date
C,
If you have a salt cell it will just keep generating at whatever output you set. It does not have a brain to tell it to shut off. That is what you (or your pool service should do.)
It is impossible for most pool techs to tell if your chlorine was actually at 20 ppm, as most of their tests stop at 10 ppm or less.
And... without knowing your CYA level, it is impossible to know what your FC (chlorine) should actually be.
This time of year, even in PA, a SWCG running at 6% will never be able to generate the amount of FC that your pool will use each day. This might be ok for a day or two, but who is going to turn the SWCG back up when the FC in your pool has been used up.
I suggest that you think about maintaining your own pool. We'd be glad to help you do that...
Thanks,
Jim R.
If you have a salt cell it will just keep generating at whatever output you set. It does not have a brain to tell it to shut off. That is what you (or your pool service should do.)
It is impossible for most pool techs to tell if your chlorine was actually at 20 ppm, as most of their tests stop at 10 ppm or less.
And... without knowing your CYA level, it is impossible to know what your FC (chlorine) should actually be.
This time of year, even in PA, a SWCG running at 6% will never be able to generate the amount of FC that your pool will use each day. This might be ok for a day or two, but who is going to turn the SWCG back up when the FC in your pool has been used up.
I suggest that you think about maintaining your own pool. We'd be glad to help you do that...
Thanks,
Jim R.
Last edited:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,776
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
More details are needed.
How many gallons in your pool?
What SWG system do you have with what size cell?
You know what your CYA and salt levels are?
I suggest you get your own test kit - either the Taylor K-1006C and K-1766 or TFT with Salt Test Kits - and review TFP methods at....
www.troublefreepool.com
More details are needed.
How many gallons in your pool?
What SWG system do you have with what size cell?
You know what your CYA and salt levels are?
I suggest you get your own test kit - either the Taylor K-1006C and K-1766 or TFT with Salt Test Kits - and review TFP methods at....
Pool Care Basics Archives
Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
www.troublefreepool.com
Hi Jim,C,
If you have a salt cell it will just keep generating at whatever output you set. It does not have a brain to tell it to shut off. That is what you (or your pool service should do.)
It is impossible for most pool techs to tell if your chlorine was actually at 20 ppm, as most of their tests stop at 10 ppm or less.
And... without knowing your CYA level, it is impossible to know what your FC (chlorine) should actually be.
This time of year, even in PA, a SWCG running at 6% will never be able to generate the amount of FC that your pool will use each day. This might be ok for a day or two, but who is going to turn the SWCG back up when the FC in your pool has been used up.
I suggest that you think about maintaining your own pool. We'd be glad to help you do that...
Thanks,
Jim R.
Thanks so much for your reply. I have a pentair system. These are the levels he reported: Fcl 20 TCL 20 Alk 90 pH 7.8 hard 300 cya 50 salinity 3600. I think I can adjust my output percentage in my panel or the app on my phone. What do you suggest I do to test and so I can determine what level to adjust the percentage? And I totally agree with you about maintaining my own pool. Thats why I'm here! Thank you!!
Thank you. How do I figure out what size the cell is? The other levels he gave me are: Fcl 20 TCL 20 Alk 90 pH 7.8 hard 300 cya 50 salinity 3600. And I think I have a Taylor test kit? I'm going to go see if thats the kind I have. I'll get back to you on that. Thanks so much!!!Welcome to TFP.
More details are needed.
How many gallons in your pool?
What SWG system do you have with what size cell?
You know what your CYA and salt levels are?
I suggest you get your own test kit - either the Taylor K-1006C and K-1766 or TFT with Salt Test Kits - and review TFP methods at....
Pool Care Basics Archives
Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,776
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
C,
The key to using the TFP pool care process is having the ability to accurately test your own pool water. The whole idea being that you can test and then decide exactly what needs to be added or not added to your pool. Unlike most pool stores and Pool Guys, we never recommend any costly magic potions...
I would recommend the TF-Pro Salt test kit from TF-Test kits.. It has all the test for the following:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
And it comes in a cool carrying case.
This kit can test FC up to 50 ppm.. Includes the Salt test reagents, and an automatic stirring device.
Thanks,
Jim.
The key to using the TFP pool care process is having the ability to accurately test your own pool water. The whole idea being that you can test and then decide exactly what needs to be added or not added to your pool. Unlike most pool stores and Pool Guys, we never recommend any costly magic potions...
I would recommend the TF-Pro Salt test kit from TF-Test kits.. It has all the test for the following:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
And it comes in a cool carrying case.
This kit can test FC up to 50 ppm.. Includes the Salt test reagents, and an automatic stirring device.
Thanks,
Jim.
Thanks. Still getting up to speed on things. My pool and spa volume is 11,000 gal. It’s on the small side. I’ve updated my signature but I’m still getting more info. I’m attaching pictures of my system.
Attachments
- Jul 17, 2019
- 4,054
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Thanks for the pictures. Can you tell us the model of your Intellichlor (picture below)? I'm guessing it is a IC40 which is perfect for your pool, but maybe you will get lucky and have it be the even bigger IC60.
On a postive note, your FC of 20 with a CYA of 50 is a tad bit high but totally safe. 99% of the problems we see here are people with low chlorine so you are ahead of most people here.
On a postive note, your FC of 20 with a CYA of 50 is a tad bit high but totally safe. 99% of the problems we see here are people with low chlorine so you are ahead of most people here.
Thanks. I have an IC40. Last Thursday, the pool company put the chlorine output to 6% because he said the chlorine level was dangerously high. Since then, I have adjusted it up to 10% and then again adjusted it to 15% for the pool and the spa. I have a Taylor testing kit which Im a newb at using and I think the chlorine level was so low that it doesnt even register a color (thats when I decided to bump up the output to 15%). The other levels I tested: pH which was 8, bromine 0 and CYA was 30 but I could still see the black dot slightly. My question is, should i turn up the output again? and should I select "Superchlorinate". And anything else I should do to get things back to where they were. The pool co. should be back tomorrow, but I'm just trying to familiarize myself with all of this so I don't have to use the pool company next summer. Thanks so much for your help!
- Jul 17, 2019
- 4,054
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Chlorine of 0 is not good and your pool company did you no favors by bumping down your SWCG. Now that you have a good test kit, I would consider that a fireable offense. Here is what I would do next (after firing those idiots):
1. Add 1/2 gallon of liquid chlorine to get some chlorine in the pool.
2. Perform an OCLT to determine if you have algae (directions below, make sure your SWCG is off during the test)
3a. If you pass OCLT, then you got lucky and do not have algae. Maintain your chlorine using the FC/CYA chart (see my signature). 30% would be a good starting point for your SWCG, test and adjust based on results and season.
3b. If you do not pass the OCLT, then you have algae. Follow the SLAM process, also pasted below.
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
1. Add 1/2 gallon of liquid chlorine to get some chlorine in the pool.
2. Perform an OCLT to determine if you have algae (directions below, make sure your SWCG is off during the test)
3a. If you pass OCLT, then you got lucky and do not have algae. Maintain your chlorine using the FC/CYA chart (see my signature). 30% would be a good starting point for your SWCG, test and adjust based on results and season.
3b. If you do not pass the OCLT, then you have algae. Follow the SLAM process, also pasted below.
Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tells if the SLAM is finished or if you need to start a SLAM. This article says how to do the OCLT.
www.troublefreepool.com
SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain
We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com
Ok, great! This is so helpful. And should I select "superchlorinate" on the SWCG output? I think it was on before? And lastly, how do I turn off the SWCG?Chlorine of 0 is not good and your pool company did you no favors by bumping down your SWCG. Now that you have a good test kit, I would consider that a fireable offense. Here is what I would do next (after firing those idiots):
1. Add 1/2 gallon of liquid chlorine to get some chlorine in the pool.
2. Perform an OCLT to determine if you have algae (directions below, make sure your SWCG is off during the test)
3a. If you pass OCLT, then you got lucky and do not have algae. Maintain your chlorine using the FC/CYA chart (see my signature). 30% would be a good starting point for your SWCG, test and adjust based on results and season.
3b. If you do not pass the OCLT, then you have algae. Follow the SLAM process, also pasted below.
Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tells if the SLAM is finished or if you need to start a SLAM. This article says how to do the OCLT.
SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain
We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
- Jul 17, 2019
- 4,054
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I would skip the superchlorinate and just raise your chlorine level with liquid chlorine. For about $5 the addition of chlorine will be instant and save wear and tear on your SWCG.
To turn it off, just set the output to 0%.