Explain how to compact crusher in 3" lifts

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T

trophft

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Jul 16, 2014
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Port Neches, TX
Casey said:
They make temporary roads out of the stuff and run heavy machinery on top of it... It's good stuff! Get your frame level and wait for the crusher and get to it. Remember, 3" lifts with a plate compactor. :goodjob:
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Sorry, newbie here (and actually haven't even started my project; will have to wait til next summer) just reading as much as I can before break ground. But could someone (Casey?) describe/explain what it means to do 3" lifts when compacting the crusher run... I've 'googled' it but keep getting info on 3" lift kits for trucks and jeeps!

Can't wait to see the progress, keep up the good work lbw1977!
 
Re: Intex Ultra Frame Inquiry

While awaiting approval from the moderater on my initial question regarding lifts, I finally found an article on the term "lifts" for compacting material! Now my question is this: should the crusher run be compacted wet or dry, or does it matter? Thanks!
 
Re: Intex Ultra Frame Inquiry

Crusher run compacts best when damp.

As you have found out (sorry I was unavailable when you asked), 3" lifts means you lay 3" of material, compact that, then repeat as needed to get to your finished height. If you want it really compacted, you do 1" lifts and run over it with a sheep's foot compactor. You can get 99% compaction that way. The smaller lifts allow for better compaction, but for your purposes, the 3" will do well enough.
 
Intex Ultra Frame Inquiry

Go with 3" inch lifts at the min. No more than 4". One inch lifts is a waste of time. You won't get any better compaction with one inch lifts. The reason being is when you compact the first one inch and then put on another one inch, that lift will disturb the lift under it. Go with the 3 inch.
Are you using a plate compactor ? How much total do you have to raise this area ?
I raised the low end for my pool using crush n run 4ft. 55 tons of it. Pool is dead level. Things like this a very doable you just HAVE to know what your doing. I work in the construction industry. I do these sort of things everyday. Any questions ask away. ?
 
I see you received the answers you were looking for. Sorry I wasn't available earlier. Good luck!
 
Re: Intex Ultra Frame Inquiry

Charlie_R thanks for the quick answer on damp compacting!

pwrstrk, i probably don't 'need' to raise it any at all (certainly not 4 ft! very impressive!) I'm about 8" off level on an 18' run. I was planning to remove sod, grab a shovel and get to diggin'! I figured i'd simply dig down the high side to level it out. Live in Southeast Texas and the soil is mostly silt and clay and seems to be pretty stable (from what i know, which isn't much!).
I was then thinking of building a frame or border using (4) 16 ft 4x4s. Add 3.5" of crusher run material to this "frame" on the ground just to ensure a more stable foundation (with the added benefit of maybe keeping grass/weeds from making their way through to my liner). The site is being prepped for a Round 15'x48" ProSeries metal frame AGP. Any glaring pitfalls that this newbie is missing?

pwrstrk said:
Go with 3" inch lifts at the min. No more than 4". One inch lifts is a waste of time. You won't get any better compaction with one inch lifts. The reason being is when you compact the first one inch and then put on another one inch, that lift will disturb the lift under it. Go with the 3 inch.
Are you using a plate compactor ? How much total do you have to raise this area ?
I raised the low end for my pool using crush n run 4ft. 55 tons of it. Pool is dead level. Things like this a very doable you just HAVE to know what your doing. I work in the construction industry. I do these sort of things everyday. Any questions ask away. ��
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You can look at my build for the framing. There is a link in my signature. I used two layers of landscape timbers to retain my sand and finalize my leveling. I used 12" bridge spikes to stake the first run down and 3/8 x 4 1/2" lag bolts to tie the second run to the first.
 

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Mac, just finished reading your framing thread.
Excellent work! Exactly what i pictured for mine (just square instead of octo); will definitely be stealing your idea and methods. Curious, when you say 'roofing material', is that just standard rolls of Felt or Synthetic roofing underlayment? Also, why the first layer of sand under the roofing material? why not just lay the roofing down on the semi-leveled ground and then the two dumps of sand tamped and leveled on top?

mac.dblues said:
You can look at my build for the framing. There is a link in my signature. I used two layers of landscape timbers to retain my sand and finalize my leveling. I used 12" bridge spikes to stake the first run down and 3/8 x 4 1/2" lag bolts to tie the second run to the first.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks. We're pretty proud of it. Too bad we have barely been able to enjoy it because of this crazy weather.

We have a roofing company in town that makes rolls of asphalt roofing for buildings. They allow each of their employees to take home two pallets of seconds once a year and I work with a guy who's wife works there. They gave me one of their pallets. It's the really thick stuff, basically rolls of shingles, not the felt. My ground is red clay and was still about 3" out of level inside the frame so I put the first layer down to level it more in the low spots before putting down the roofing. I felt having the roofing separating some of the sand would keep the sand from shifting out from under the pavers after it dried out and had the weight of the pool pushing down on them.
 
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