I have an Aqua Logic controller with a T-Cell-15W electrolytic cell that was replaced in April2016 before we bought our house. I have usually kept it set at 40%-50% for correct chlorine levels but this year I had to initially set it at 80% and now it is generating very little or not at all. Is it time to replace it again or is there something else I can check? The cell says 5A MAX on the side but the current is 7A. My cell diagnostic says the current should be 2.5-7. The Voltage is correct (24V), the salt level is 3600 (according to the cell) and the cell is clean from a visual.
Do I need to replace my salt cell?
- Thread starter Bogartmypool
- Start date
Your zip code shows you are in GA. Do you keep your pool open throughout the year?
You have gotten 8 years from the SWCG. You have probably reached its useful life as most are rated for 10,000 hrs.
You have gotten 8 years from the SWCG. You have probably reached its useful life as most are rated for 10,000 hrs.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 15,974
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Let’s confirm- its a t15 cell? (Your little sig next to your avatar says t5)
How long do you run the cell each day on average?
If its most of the time, your cell is likely depleted as 8 years is a good life span for a cell in the south.
They have a finite lifespan of around 8-10k hours at 100% so at 50% that’s 16-20k hours.
Lets go through all the steps to confirm these suspicions-
How long do you run the cell each day on average?
If its most of the time, your cell is likely depleted as 8 years is a good life span for a cell in the south.
They have a finite lifespan of around 8-10k hours at 100% so at 50% that’s 16-20k hours.
Lets go through all the steps to confirm these suspicions-
Basic AquaRite Diagnostics
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:- Report all diagnostic readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Bo,
The normal lifespan of a salt cell is 5 to 7 years...
I'd be looking for a new cell..
Thanks,
Jim R.
The normal lifespan of a salt cell is 5 to 7 years...
I'd be looking for a new cell..
Thanks,
Jim R.
I run it 8 hours per day for about 6 months and 4 hours a day for 6 months in the winter. Yes, it is a T15I don't have an auto setting but, I went to diagnostic mode and the readings are +24.23V, 7.06A, 87F, 3700PPM. Then I can change polarity and the readings are -24.41V, -6.8A, 87F, 3500PPM. I can't find serial numbers. The salinity is the readings in the diagnostic mode.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 15,974
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You need to know your actual salinity- via testing.
It may be quite high if you’ve been adding salt based on the unit’s readings
It may be quite high if you’ve been adding salt based on the unit’s readings
Assuming I have to replace the cell. The t15 is for up to 40,000 gallons but my pool is 15,000. Can I use a t3 instead which is much cheaper. Also, are any of the knock-offs any good or should I stick with the OEM. It is about twice as much as the knock-offs.
No, the salt readings have been OK. I have not added salt in probably a month.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 15,974
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Bogart,
Many (most) times as a cell becomes depleted the salinty on the display will be much lower than the actual measured salinity. This discrepancy can happen slowly over time.
Your cell/unit doesn’t actually measure salinity- it deduces what it is via electrial conductivity measurements. As the plates lose their coating the accuracy of the measurements change.
All swcg owners should have a way to measure salinity on their own. The Taylor k1766 is the recommended method.
You can take the cell to a brick & mortar store that sells Hayward & have it tested along with your actual salt level.
But it really Sounds like its on borrowed time and you should look at getting a replacement now so you’re prepared.
In the meantime be sure to keep your fc in target range with liquid chlorine if necessary.
See—> FC/CYA Levels
Hayward Aqualogic - Further Reading
www.google.com
I found the serial number for my cell (1E13113) so it was a warranty replacement manufactured in 2013, so 11 years old. Probably is time for a replacement.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 15,974
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
In your location a t15 is the right choice.
Hopefully you’ll get another 8 years out of it. (Edit:11 years!)
A t3 cell produces only about 1/3 of what the T15 does.
Here’s a chart
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
We recommend using a cell that is rated for at least 2x’s your pool’s volume.
So that’s 30k gal rated or larger for your pool. Bigger is better in the south with longer swim seasons.
The manufacturer’s gallon ratings are based on running the unit at 100% around the clock to adequately chlorinate the pool - you don’t want to do that as it leaves no wiggle room fc wise and the 10k hr lifespan would be depleted quickly- it would cost more $ in the long run since you’d be buying a replacement cell much sooner.
For reference that’s only 13-14 months if running 100% 24hr/day.
About generic…
Your aqualogic system is quite old - most generic tcell replacements are only compatible with newer firmware.
Many also have much lower lifespan ratings (anywhere between 3-7k hours)
In your situation I would stick to a Hayward branded t15 cell.
Thanks for the help! But more info. I set it for Superchlorinate just a few hours ago and already the FC level is up at the high end of the range! I had it set to 90% and it was low. I would assume superchlorinate would be the same as setting Chlorinate to 100%, no? What's up?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 15,974
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Yes, It should be the same as the 100% setting.
About 0.5 ppm fc /hour in your pool.
When they start dying things can get weird & unpredictable.
They reverse polarity with each power cycle I believe so maybe 1/2 the plates are in better shape than the others resulting in your current experience.
Before you put a new cell in place you should absolutely test your salinity independently.
If it is too high it can fry your new cell & damage other components of your aging system.
Oh, another thing I forgot to mention. I also took the cell out and reversed the direction. Could that have done it? Last winter was the first time I took the cell out and put in a blank for the winter. Is flow direction important for a cell? There was no flow direction on the cell so I am not sure I put it back the same as it was before. Is it recommended to put in a blank for the winter?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 15,974
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The cell itself is not directional-
The flow switch is.
you can either just remove the cell & cap/cover the exposed pipe ends or use a dummy pipe if you fully close/winterize the pool & remove the water from the lines.
Most people who use a dummy pipe are ones that run the pool all winter even during freezing temperatures so they don’t risk busting their expensive cell if things go wrong since it doesn’t operate in the colder temps anyway.
Up to you really.
I bring my cell inside for the winter.
Thanks for all your help. I just ordered a new Hayward cell - $900 OUCH!! I figure I got my moneys worth out of this cell.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 15,974
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
