Did Leslie’s take me to the cleaner

[jmorr]

So I went to Leslie’s and had my water tested on my new 16x40 salt water pool. They said I needed the following Alkalinity up, hardness plus, instant conditioner plus, perfect weekly, Cal Chlor calcium chloride. All this added up to $400 and I'm wondering if all these chemicals are really needed. I'm new to pools and kind of had sticker shock when I heard the price of all of the chemicals needed. My results for my saltwater pool are the following

Free chlorine 1-4 0.15
Total chlorine within 0.2 of FAC 0.15
Ph 7.2-7.8 7.7
Total alkalinity 80-120 ppm 37
Calcium harness 200-400 12
Cyanuric acid 50-100 ppm 5
Iron 0-0.2 ppm 0
Copper 0-0.2 ppm 0
Phosphates 0-100 ppb 155
Salt 3000-4000 ppm 3250

 

[Texas Splash]

All this added up to $400 and I'm wondering if all these chemicals are really needed.

Probably not, so if you haven't opened something yet - don't. What we recommend is testing your own water with a proper test kit, either a TF-Series test kit (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C. Testing is easy and much more reliable. Pool store testing (and advice) is often well off the mark. As you can see, they are more than happy to sell you over-priced products.

Please consider ordering a reliable test kit and come back to to post those results. I recommend the TF-100 or TF-Pro, but chose your own. You'll be glad you did.

Also bookmark and read the Pool Care Basics page. You'll find tons of great articles.

Welcome to TFP and enjoy the forum!

 

[Texas Splash]

You may find this helpful.

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Texas Splash]

Also be sure to update your signature. See mine as an example. The link below may also help you.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Follow Pat's great advice. Don't open any products until you have a set of reliable test results. Order a test kit ASAP.

Did you or the pool builder add anything to the pool yet?

 

[jmorr]

Follow Pat's great advice. Don't open any products until you have a set of reliable test results. Order a test kit ASAP.

Did you or the pool builder add anything to the pool yet?

No, not yet. I'm going to order the test kits that were recommended. I noticed the price on their products seemed higher so I'll probably just order pool supplies through Amazon or get some of it through lowes.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Jmorr,

You asked.. "Did Leslie’s take me to the cleaner"..???

Well, that is their business model.

Suggest that you stay out of pool stores that only want your money..

Suggest you check us out and see what TFP is all about.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Looks like you added salt, correct?

 

[jmorr]

Looks like you added salt, correct?

Yes, just added salt to my new fiberglass pool that's it.

 

[jmorr]

Jmorr,

You asked.. "Did Leslie’s take me to the cleaner"..???

Well, that is their business model.

Suggest that you stay out of pool stores that only want your money..

Suggest you check us out and see what TFP is all about.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Never again lol. Yes, I will

 

[PoolStored]

You are lucky they only took you for $400. Took $1500 before I realized...You have won the PoolStored lottery....Welcome to TFP!!!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

The priority is to get at least 30 ppm of CYA (sold as chlorine stabilizer/conditioner) in the pool. You'll want to buy enough CYA to increase to 60 ppm. That's about 15 pounds of granular CYA. Also add 5 ppm of liquid chlorine. In your pool, that equates to about 1.5 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine bleach (sold as pool chlorine/liquid shock/chlorinating liquid). You can work on the rest at a slower pace.

How much "instant conditioner plus" did they sell you? That will work as to bump up your CYA level, but it is MUCH more expensive than granular CYA.

 

[JJ_Tex]

I love how they sold you everything to cover the less important metrics, and nothing to bump up your chlorine which is the most important thing for your pool.

Smart move on their part I guess, since you would likely have an algae outbreak soon. Once they get someone with a green pool, especially someone with a brand new pool, then they bring out the big money makers and lighten your wallet even more. Then once they clear up your green pool, they get to sell you more stuff to clean up the copper and gummed up filters their round 2 of chemicals caused.

 

[Mdragger88]

Cal chlor calcium chloride & hardness up are the same thing.
That TA is unlikely with that ph & it’s also an “adjusted” value not your actual ta
If you haven’t added cya or trichlor pucks then you don’t have any cya.
Definitely don’t need the perfect weekly stuff.
As mentioned above you need chlorine asap- 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine each day until your kit comes use
PoolMath to calculate additions

Just Filled Your Pool with Water? Here's What To Do Next - Further Reading

www.google.com

 

[Newdude]

Hey Jmorr and Welcome !!!!!

We have ZERO to sell you but goodwill. We'll happily teach you how to do it on the cheap and easy. Here's the deets :

Read up and ask away ;Pool Care Basics
Purchase : Test Kits Compared
Dowmload : PoolMath
Follow : FC/CYA Levels
Witness : How Clear is TFP Clear?



Here's my summary of the test kits :


There are two price tiers with the TF100 and k2006 in one, and the TFpro and K2006-C in the other. Both TF kits are better values and here's why:
The residential K2006 (no C....) has bottles that are about 2.7 times smaller than the TF100 (.75 oz VS 2 oz) and you'll blow through those in no time needing replacements. For similarly priced kits, it's a no brainer to buy the much bigger TF100.

The Commercial K2006 (with C) has less of the tests that you'll do more often (FC/CYA) and more of the ones you won't (CH/TA). You'll be replacing half the kit early while throwing out the other half when they expire. The TFpro has a nicer case (not that important) and includes a $48 stirring device (super important) along with the bottles sized to how we do things. For similarly priced kits it's another no brainer.

Either the TF100 or Pro can be purchased with a salt option that adds the $30 salt test kit for $20 more, making them even better deals than the 2006 and 2006C plus a salt kit added on with no discount.

Either the TF100 or Pro can be purchased with a 'SLAM' option which is great for newbs and those with swamps. Both will be testing more frequently for the first few weeks and may exhaust the regular supplies.

All TF kits are guaranteed fresh and the others may have sat on shelves for undisclosed times by the time you get them. This matters with products that expire. TFtestkits ship daily and customer service is quick to rectify any problems.

 

[jmorr]

The priority is to get at least 30 ppm of CYA (sold as chlorine stabilizer/conditioner) in the pool. You'll want to buy enough CYA to increase to 60 ppm. That's about 15 pounds of granular CYA. Also add 5 ppm of liquid chlorine. In your pool, that equates to about 1.5 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine bleach (sold as pool chlorine/liquid shock/chlorinating liquid). You can work on the rest at a slower pace.

How much "instant conditioner plus" did they sell you? That will work as to bump up your CYA level, but it is MUCH more expensive than granular CYA.

They sold me 4 gallons of instant conditioner plus and a 1 pound bag of power powder plus 73 shock. Should I use these and return the rest? I just want to use the necessary chemicals now and return the rest.

 

[jmorr]

Hey Jmorr and Welcome !!!!!

We have ZERO to sell you but goodwill. We'll happily teach you how to do it on the cheap and easy. Here's the deets :

Read up and ask away ;Pool Care Basics
Purchase : Test Kits Compared
Dowmload : PoolMath
Follow : FC/CYA Levels
Witness : How Clear is TFP Clear?



Here's my summary of the test kits :


There are two price tiers with the TF100 and k2006 in one, and the TFpro and K2006-C in the other. Both TF kits are better values and here's why:
The residential K2006 (no C....) has bottles that are about 2.7 times smaller than the TF100 (.75 oz VS 2 oz) and you'll blow through those in no time needing replacements. For similarly priced kits, it's a no brainer to buy the much bigger TF100.

The Commercial K2006 (with C) has less of the tests that you'll do more often (FC/CYA) and more of the ones you won't (CH/TA). You'll be replacing half the kit early while throwing out the other half when they expire. The TFpro has a nicer case (not that important) and includes a $48 stirring device (super important) along with the bottles sized to how we do things. For similarly priced kits it's another no brainer.

Either the TF100 or Pro can be purchased with a salt option that adds the $30 salt test kit for $20 more, making them even better deals than the 2006 and 2006C plus a salt kit added on with no discount.

Either the TF100 or Pro can be purchased with a 'SLAM' option which is great for newbs and those with swamps. Both will be testing more frequently for the first few weeks and may exhaust the regular supplies.

All TF kits are guaranteed fresh and the others may have sat on shelves for undisclosed times by the time you get them. This matters with products that expire. TFtestkits ship daily and customer service is quick to rectify any problems.

Gotcha, should I add borates, PH, or standard sampler to the test kit for the pro? I’m new to salt water pools so sorry if this is a stupid question

 

[Mdragger88]

They sold me 4 gallons of instant conditioner plus and a 1 pound bag of power powder plus 73 shock. Should I use these and return the rest? I just want to use the necessary chemicals now and return the rest.

When using the liquid cya it’s important that you use the entire bottle not just part of it as the cya has a tendency to get stuck in the bottle. Also rinsing the bottle thoroughly & pouring that in the pool too.
I would use 2 whole gallons for now.

Here’s what 2# of that cal hypo will do

 

[Newdude]

I’m new to salt water pools so sorry if this is a stupid question

Never a stupid question. You're new and we all remember what that was like.

Gotcha, should I add borates, PH, or standard sampler to the test kit for the pro?

The PH meter and standard sizer are not needed but are fun for the folks who like toys. The SLAM option is the only add on I'd get personally with the TFpro-salt. If getting the TF100salt with SLAM option, add the speed stir also. It's a game changer.

Neither the borate or salt strips are very accurate. They are ok for spot checks but as with strips start degrading the moment you open the seal.

 

[Texas Splash]

The Powder Plus appears to be cal-hypo which will increase your CH level. Unless you have a waterline tile or heater, you shouldn't need much CH in a FG pool, but if your CH is low, you can use it for a while until the CH gets to about 200-250, then I would stop. But be sure to confirm your CH with your own proper test kit first to be sure. Same goes for all levels. Don't rely on their testing that's for sure.