Cracked Salt Cell Union - Advice/Confirmation

[Yeller989]

The union screw on my TCELL940-W split down the middle, and I have a few questions I'm hoping to get help with.

Google says the replacement union is a Hayward GLX-Cell-Union - 2" union, but the pipe behind the salt cell is 3".
Question 1: Does a 2-inch union (GLX-CELL-UNION) fit a Hayward TCell950-W cell?




Next, I need to remove the 3" pipe from the diverter valve.
Question 2: Are pipes glued or screwed into the diverter valve? If glued, any suggestions on how to get them out or is a new diverter valve needed?

Question 3: Once I replace the union and remove the old pipe from the valve (or replace), I'm assuming I need the following parts:

• 3" pipe
• 3" Pipe sleeve
• Gray glue

Anything else I'm missing?

Once

 

[wireform]

To me it seems the pipe behind the collar is a 2" coupling connecting two short pieces of 2".
I believe there's a split union collar available for the repair not needing any cutting.
Fits Pentair and Hayward Salt Cells and some hot tub pumps. | Mikeys Quick Coupler

 

[Homebrewale]

I used a split union on my Hayward cell at my old house. It was installed on there for probably 5 years when I sold the house.

https://lesliespool.com/0121109020---magic-plastics-inc.---2-pump-union-split-nut-with-screws/613788.html?src=35LB&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=CREA_PMAX_(0)_LPM_(1)_GGL_(2)_US_(5)_WEB_(7)_NBG_(9)_D600_(15)_National&utm_id=19640458999&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAr7C6BhDRARIsAOUKifjboxyDYVjRnBoUoxrtv7l7ziXdh4iWvkj9uEht1CQJC1wzj5zMakYaAnSmEALw_wcB

Black Split Nut T-Cell® 2" Union Nut for Salt Cell - Generic

 

[Yeller989]

Thanks for helping, I didn't realize split union nuts existed. This looks perfect.

From a long-term perspective, if I wanted to replace the union with an original, do you know if the pipes are glued into the diverter? If so, it means cutting out the entire diverter to fix this.

 

[proavia]

Pipes/fittings are glued to diverter valves.
You could cut between the SWG union and the coupler. Then use a socket saver to ream out the coupling and add a new short piece of pipe to attach the reamed out coupling to a new SWG union.

 

[Yeller989]

Pipes/fittings are glued to diverter valves.
You could cut between the SWG union and the coupler. Then use a socket saver to ream out the coupling and add a new short piece of pipe to attach the reamed out coupling to a new SWG union.

Thanks for confirming that the pipes are glued into the diverters.

I’m asking because it feels like a split union is a temporary patch, while replacing the cracked cell connection is a permanent fix.

My piping is very compact, so cutting this out would involve removing two diverters (see red cut lines). It makes sense to try your suggestion of using a 2" socket saver/reamer (green line).

In the meantime, I’ve ordered a split union and will figure out a long-term solution when it warms up.

Thanks again for your feedback.

 

[proavia]

The green line needs to be between the coupler and the SWG union - to the right of its present location in your pic (where the gray glue is oozing out).

 

[JamesW]

Fits Pentair and Hayward Salt Cells and some hot tub pumps. | Mikeys Quick Coupler

I upgraded the original PHSLT to my PHSLT 2- it fits more equipment. Its stronger, thicker and threads adjusted. This coupling replaces the cracked/broken couplings on either end of your Intellichlor, or Hayward Salt Cells. Fits the new, Paramount UV2- UV Sanitizer also. This is also...

www.mikeysquickcoupler.com

MikeysQuickCoupler | 2-piece unions for pool repair

MikeysQuickCouplers make 2-Piece unions for pool and hot tub repair.

www.mikeysquickcoupler.com

 

[Homebrewale]

I found the split union felt sturdy to me and not a temporary patch. I split the original coupling by overtightening using a strap wrench. After that, I always just hand tighten all fittings.

 

[Yeller989]

The green line needs to be between the coupler and the SWG union - to the right of its present location in your pic (where the gray glue is oozing out).

Looking at the pipes closely it appears the pipe construction is setup like this:

Salt Water Union -> 2-inch Pipe (small/hidden) -> 2-inch coupling -> 2-inch pipe -> Diverter

Either way, I'd just cut through the pipe, ream it out, and glue new parts in place.

 

[JamesW]

Get the quick coupler.

You are making this way harder than it needs to be.

The quick coupler is probably stronger than the original nut (which failed by the way).

 

[JamesW]

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[wireform]

As @JamesW said,don't look for more work and use the split nut kit. I guarantee down the road you'll have the thrill to try your handy work on another repair. Just a FYI the 2" diverter valve can also accommodate a 2.5" coupling on the OD so you'd cut flush with the end of the black part of the valve, use a 2.5'' coupling and then a 2.5" X 2" reducer......

 

[Yeller989]

I found the split union felt sturdy to me and not a temporary patch. I split the original coupling by overtightening using a strap wrench. After that, I always just hand tighten all fittings.

Thanks for your feedback. I've ordered the split union so there is no rush.

Part of me wants to try the reamer to get comfortable with the inevitable split-pipe repairs coming in the near future.

 

[Yeller989]

Just a FYI the 2" diverter valve can also accommodate a 2.5" coupling on the OD so you'd cut flush with the end of the black part of the valve, use a 2.5'' coupling and then a 2.5" X 2" reducer......

Thanks for helping me break the parts down. I'd love to get the parts lined up and try a repair in the near future (split union will work for the time being).

 

[wireform]

You can buy a few parts, glue and ream or whatever on the work bench if that's what you need to see.

 

[Yeller989]

Mikeys Quick Coupler part arrived quickly (with a little packet of jelly bellies) and installed without issues.

I was a bit nervous since I had to physically break off the broken coupler to install the new part, fortunately no issues.

Works great and no leaks.