Considering equipment relocation... any advice?

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BMeeley

BMeeley

Bronze Supporter
Oct 13, 2017
106
Woodbridge, VA
We are thinking about getting bids to relocate our pool equipment (heater, filter, new pump, possible automation upgrade). Anyone have recent experience in having this done? I'm guessing we need a PB/renovator and will probably need to coordinate with an electrician and gas company to move the gas line and reconnect heater. It's not a service clearly advertised in the area.

Any success or horror stories out there to help inform the process? It's going to be several thousand dollars and we'll need solid advice from the contractor on performance impacts, since we want to move the setup farther away, and slightly downhill from the existing location.

pool equip location.jpg

The current enclosure is between the house and the pool and is in the way of patio and deck plans. The new location would be a shed or enclosure in the back left corner of the existing fence pictured.
 
It does not have to be a PB really. If you can find someone that is a licensed and insured plumber they should be able to do most of it with support from the power and gas company. Ask around and ask lots of people to find the bust plumber in your area and go from there.

Kim:kim:
 
How much further away are you planning on relocating the filter and pump? Also, what size plumbing are you working with? We had a friend who moved the equipment from a few feet away from the pool to around the corner (about 40' further out) and it caused circulation problems. In his case, he had only 1 return (shallow end), skimmer and main drain and in deep end. Yes, the pool still functioned, but they had to go from brushing 2X weekly to almost daily or algae would form. His levels were spot on. The house was sold and now they are in the process of building a pool. You want to make sure that the equipment is not being moved so far away that it could cause potential problems. If you put down some specs, maybe Mas985 or other members can chime in and provide further assistance.

With my pool renovation, I found a local guy who does weekly services that has been in the business for a long time. A little skeptical at first, but the work performed was done properly. Only thing I do not like is almost everyone uses a hack saw to cut through PVC. The industry should create a tool that provides straight cuts when plumbing is already installed. If there is one available, I have not see it used. Only time a circular saw is used is during the original construction project. I have to say that no leaks occurred and they did a nice job. You will probably have to find your own electrician and plumber once the plumbing and heater are moved.

You may want to look at pool liner companies as they will probably do renovations. Not pool builders as they probably will be more expensive. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Thanks, Catanzaro. You are hitting upon my exact concerns. I really want to relocate the stuff, build an enclosure to protect all of the equipment from the weather, and do some upgrades in the process.Here is what I'm thinking/hoping:


  • Move the existing pad to the location in the diagram below. It's about 86 feet of new plumbing run, routed around the existing pool deck.
  • Upgrade the pump from an old 1hp Anthony to a 3hp Intelliflo VS.
  • I have 2" plumbing throughout - the pool was renovated about 4 years ago, right before we bought the house.
  • Replace valves with Jandy 4717, 4424 valve actuators and Smart JVA modules to the controller (I already have flow/balance problems and want to tweak)
  • I'm eyeing the iAqualink system - RS-PS4 board, IQ20A controller, and popping a FlowVis flow meter in to verify flow in different system configurations for fine tuning - for me this is about balancing flow from skimmers and drains, rather than turnover)

Diagram below. The rest of my current data is in my sig.

The new location is slightly downhill from the current location. I'm hoping a flat or gentle slope down in the new plumbing lines will minimize the added resistance in the system. Combine with a pump upgrade, the idea is the new 3hp VSP could handle - and maybe even improve - circulation over the dinosaur that's carrying the load now.

Landscape plan.jpg

Does this sound do-able, or is it a pipe-dream? (I can't resist bad puns!). I feel like I have a reasonable plan, but contractor knowledge is going to figure big. They have to know what they're talking about and have some experience with this kind of thing.

I'd love any and all thoughts, questions even constructive ad hominem attacks!

cheers
 
BMeeley said:
The new location is slightly downhill from the current location. I'm hoping a flat or gentle slope down in the new plumbing lines will minimize the added resistance in the system. Combine with a pump upgrade, the idea is the new 3hp VSP could handle - and maybe even improve - circulation over the dinosaur that's carrying the load now.
Click to expand...
No such luck for either wish.

Elevation changes don't change total head loss seen by the pump because the static head loss nets out to zero since water is pumped uphill again. However, it will reduce the suction level in the pump basket so it is less likely to leak air. However, if the pump basket is below water level, you will need a suction and pressure side valve to open the pump basket lid or water will flow out of the pump basket.

As for the VS improving circulation, any pump can provide adequate circulation. It just might not be as cost effective as VS. Filtering is a little better at lower speeds too.
 
Just a few thoughts - I can see why you'd like to move the equipment!

In terms of plumbing, I don't see the distance as significant, but there could be a concern about adequate flow to your spa jets. How is that now? If it's fine now, you're adding a lot more pump, so chances are that it will be fine after the move. You could also use larger pipe for the long runs associated with the spa.

Natural gas to the new pad might be a bigger challenge than you're expecting, so I'd probably research that. As previously mentioned, a licensed plumber will have the knowledge and qualifications needed. You may need a larger cable size through or around your house, so that's also a consideration.

The new pump will be quiet when operating on low speed, so if the back corner gets too expensive, you could consider the side of the house, if that's an option otherwise.

You mentioned an enclosure, and down here for new pools, a sound-proof enclosure is required anyway. I know there are concerns there about an enclosure causing over-heating, but it seems that the flow of water through the enclosure carries the heat away. There is also a baffled vent along one upper edge of the filter box. During summer, my box is at or below outdoor temperature (stays a tad warmer in winter). When the pump is on low, you pretty much have to open the box to know if it's running.

I notice iAqualink in your wish-list, with a Pentair pump. Generally it's preferred to choose one brand for automation, pump and SWG if used.

It looks like a great project for improving your entertaining area! Have fun with it :)
 
The flow to the spa could be better, but it's adequate. I suspect the vintage pump probably has a pretty beat-up impeller, but have never disassembled it to inspect it thoroughly. I'm also getting to the point that I have to keep the pump filter basket spotless and the filter cartridge clean to get sufficient flow to keep the heater running. I'm thinking that ol' pump is beyond it's last legs. Larger pipe might be an interesting option to explore as a hedge.

pump label.jpg

Ain't she purty?

I'm not too worried about the pump being below the water line. Casual inspection seem to have it just about even or slightly above. Pump would probably go from 2' above waterline to 1' with the move, to my eye.

Maybe I should look at the Jandy/Zodiac pumps, as well. Just seem to read a lot of glowing reviews on the IntelliFlo's. Have also seen videos and posts about iAqualink recognizing and running the Pentair just fine. Still, good thoughts wile I'm still in the dreaming and planning stages.

Any issues on the enclosures with a Raypak 336A in there? I haven't fully worked all of those details out. Also considering a shed-like structure to store supplies and put stuff away in the off-season.
 
I probably wouldn't put the heater inside an enclosure, because it's fairly quiet and you already have the outdoor configuration. But yep, it can be done in the enclosure with required clearances, a different stack and adequate combustion air inlet. If there's irrigation nearby, that might be a good reason to put it inside.
 

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Sometimes we have to call in the professionals! "It's like calling in a S.W.A.T. team." to get the job done.

The pool my friend had was problematic due to only one return in the shallow end and the pool was quite large. Water never reached many spots. Also, the drop in steps caused problems if not removed monthly to keep algae in check. Good luck with the relocation.
 
Yeah, that current pad isn't in a nice spot is it. If you decide to put the equipment pad outside the fence, you will also want to put a gate in the fence in the pad area. You're not gonna want to walk all the way over to the gate, all the way around the fence to get to the pad, then back around to the pool while you are doing maintenance.
 
Check with your town first. Things can get pretty hairy in some jurisdictions...

Moving mechanicals & utility services is clearly "permit" work,
THe rub will be in the town C/O policy.. you must investigate.

may mandate a new C/O from the town & pool to meet today's standards vs. The closed " As built "
 
PoolguyinCT said:
Check with your town first. Things can get pretty hairy in some jurisdictions...

Moving mechanicals & utility services is clearly "permit" work,
THe rub will be in the town C/O policy.. you must investigate.

may mandate a new C/O from the town & pool to meet today's standards vs. The closed " As built "
Click to expand...

GOOD reminder! THANKS!

What does C/O stand for?
 
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