Connect Shop-Vac to Skimmer?

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T

trivetman

Bronze Supporter
Jul 14, 2017
815
Jenkintown, PA
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hi all -

I'm new to pool ownership this year and am pretty convinced I can close for the winter without hiring someone. the procedure of blowing out the lines makes sense - I just need to make sure I have the right equipment.

So I decided to do a test run today with a shop-vac (of which I four in varying sizes). But I am not sure how to connect it into the skimmer line. The previous owner left a couple of adapters (see pic) which I thought were promising, particularly the one with the threads which screws right into the skimmer. But neither of the adapters is a good match for any of the shop-vacs I've got. So all I got was a bad connection and the air blowing out of the skimmer rather than into the pipe.

Granted today I didn't have the water level lowered so I am going through more water than I would be at closing, but I don't think that matters too much for what I am trying to do. Is there a standard way to do this? Or is it always some sort of rig involving duct tape and misc. PVC?

pooladaptor.JPG
 
A shop vac may not be powerful enough, (volume, not pressure to blow out the main drain), if you have one. This is due to the fact that you are pushing air from the skimmer, back to the filter and then to the main drain and the run can be quite long.

Can you please explain your set up. Skimmers, Main Drain, Return jets, etc. Also, if you can take a picture of the equipment pad from all angles, that would be great. Thank you.
 
Here's a picture of the pad. The plumbing is pretty straightforward. Two skimmers into the first valve (furthest from the pump). The second valve (closer to the pump) brings in the main drain. The pad is fairly far from the pool. Probably 20 feet to one skimmer and maybe 40 to the other skimmer. Also 40 to the main drain. I'm aware that the shop-vac may not be enough power but that's why I am giving it a try now. Also, one of my shop vac's is huge, so maybe that bodes well.

If the shop-vacs don't work, next step is to try a compressor through the pump. If that doesn't work, guess I buy a cyclone or maybe rent one. I saw a cyclone on a list at the local tool rental place.

I just figured there were some straight-forward adaptors to do this, but maybe that's not the case.
 

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I just figured there were some straight-forward adaptors to do this, but maybe that's not the case.
Click to expand...

You can always make adapters to fit your Shop Vac. Look at post # 2 in the link from this thread. That is what I did. Forget about renting the Cyclone. Even if the cost was $50, in a few years you would make out. In addition, you could always help friends close their pools.

If you lower the water below the skimmers, you could close off the skimmer area with the main drain Pentair valves. Then go in with the shop vac and suck the water out of the system. This may work. I actually suck the water out while moving air. Your main drain is a different story. Here is a link that may help you with a compressor.

Below, please find a thread (Post # 10) which describes the experience a member has had with a pancake compressor and how to work more efficiently!

Closing: blosing out lines, water level and then some

From speaking with the manufacturer, the Cyclone produces about 5 psi, and with the resistance of the water, the return jets are at about 90 cfm and main drain about 30 cfm. Under no pressure, the unit produces 130 cfm. The bubbling effect of the main is real powerful.

I would assume that an air compressor that can produce 10 cfm may be sufficient to move the water below the frost line. There is also a difference of the hose involved. The 1.5" hose creates a lot more air than your standard air compressor hose.

Please take a look at post # 15 and this describes the amount of CFM needed and for what. If one can isolate each area when closing, the task is accomplished a lot easier. This also assumes 2" plumbing, which creates less resistance. Some pools have 1"-1.5", which may require more cfm. The information is from another member on the forum, but I can not recall who wrote the post as it was copied.


Problem blowing out pool lines


Just purchased a car at the Subaru Dealer in Jenkintown. Too bad that I am not heading that way in the next 3 months or I would stop and take care of this for you. My next scheduled service is 6 months from now.
 
agree that a shop vac will not be enough to blow out main drain. i ended up buying a cyclone blower and do not regret it a bit. i made an adapter from an old pump basket lid that i use to attach blower there. by alternating valve positions i can blow out all my lines without moving blower. MUCH easier closing.
 
Thanks all. I found a 90s era cyclone on ebay last night for $100 and figured it was worth it as the shopvacs were likely doomed to fail. Sounds like i have to rig a line for this too, but at least it is the right blower to make the adaptor for
 
Not 90's to be technical . Blower label indicates manufactured in 2000 but seller says it works. For $100 I thought well worth it as i am using it once a year
 
If it works, not a bad deal. I use mine a little more often. Unclog the central vac in the house once in a while. Have blow debris through downspout. Also, close friends pools. Kind of was repaid for friends pools in one way or another. Good luck and keep us posted!
 

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Connected the 20 year old cyclone I bought today and went through a practice run of blowing out the pipes. Practically turned my pool into a cool jacuzzi from all the air being pumped through the main drain. Well worth the purchase.

Had to do a little bit of plumbing work to connect it as the barbed fitting was way too big for the 1.5" hose. I am guessing the new models have the smaller barb. But - wasn't too much work to find an adapter.
 
Please send picture(s). Where did you connect to? I did this myself when I received my Cyclone. If I remember correctly, I had it about 3 months prior to closing. Wanted to make sure that I could get through it. The process is very easy. Although, make sure someone is there to shut off the unit at the last return jet to avoid building up backpressure.

I see that you also have not added your signature. Please do so.

I actually plug the suction side (skimmers and returns up) with black rubber plug and then start with the returns. Once they are done, I open basket and add black plug on return side and remove plug on suction side. Now, I work on the skimmers and main drain. Lower water below the skimmer by 1". I vacuum water out while the Cyclone is doing its job. Then I take my time with the Gizmo's. Next onto the Main Drain (about 1 minute max). Air lock the system and quickly open the cover and place a black plug back in to the basket on suction side. This takes approximately 15 minutes.

After all this is done, I remove the drain on filter, the pressure gauge, place MPV in between 2 settings. This year, I will take the salt cell out and put a dummy cell in (or this will be done before closing). Shut off the power to the units, shut off breakers at the panel and over the heater. Then the cover and water bags.

Whichever way you close your pool is fine. The idea is to remove the water out of the lines and "Air Lock" the main drain piping.
 
Just needed a rubber compression fitting over the large barb. The other (larger) end of the fitting went over the threaded end of the barbed fitting that is designed to thread into the skimmer. From there - standard 1.5 inch hose into a second barb which threads into the skimmer.

Not sure what happened to my signature. Its in my profile and you can see it in my original post.

- - - Updated - - -

Picture posted
 

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