Century Centurion pump issues

[William88gto]

Hey, I am new to this group so if this isn't allowed or in the wrong place feel free to put me in my place.
I found some answers/discussions on this site that were very close to what I am looking for. But I didn't want to take over someone's post from a few years ago.
I have a Century Centurion 1.0 hp motor (switchless) on my pool pump and a old school clock dial type switcher for it.
I bought the house about 5 years ago amd this is ehat was there and it's worked great. I normally run the pump 24/7, I tried it 12 hours each night for a while and it did fine for a while but then I had some issues with chemical levels and algea but that is a story for another day.

Lately, I have noticed that when I shut the power off to backwash/rinse... that the motor will hum and will either do a delayed start (almost a slow stop), or won't start at all. However, I have been able to manually turn the thing on the side with my fingers and it would start right up.
I read somewhere about the capacitor even though it's a switchless motor. I did try to test that but It read "0". I assume I did that wrong because I don't know that it would even work if it was bad.
However, the last two days I have had to drain my pool a few times as I am in Savannah and we are getting so much rain.
It is doing the same thing, the main difference is that it will hum for a second and then make a click. I thought it was throwing the breaker, but it didn't.
When it does this it won't start back, even woth me manually spinning it (it spins pretty easily).
But I have noticed that if I wait a few minutes and come back and try again, it will fire back up and run.
So I guess my questions are:
- what should I check or replace first.
- could it be the cap?
- should I replace the motor or the motor and pump?
- if I am replacing the pump, should I do vs? And if so is there a option to just replace the motor or should I also replace the pump in that situation.

I will post pictures of what I have.
Also worth noting, the pump/motor is older and I am not against replacing it, I just don't want to if it's something more simple.
I am pretty handy, so I am not worried about the labor, I am just slightly in unknown territory with troubleshooting this.
Any help is appreciated.

 

[1poolman1]

You have a Hayward Super Pump.
You can try the capacitor first as it is an inexpensive test (about $12.00 if you don't go to a pool store) and may solve the issue.
If not, get a variable speed motor like the Century ECM16CU (no longer made but still available many places) and a GO KIT3 for the seal, gasket, O rings needed. It can be used with your existing time clock. It is for 240V only.

Or get a Nidec Neptune NPTT 165 variable-speed motor that no longer uses the time clock as it has its own control on the top of the motor. Still need the GO KIT3. It can operate on 120V as well as 240V

There are many YouTube videos on replacing the motor on that pump that can make it easy for you. Just be careful with the electrical portion and BE SURE that all power is off before working on the motor or pump.

There is nothing as good as new except new, so if you want a new pump look into a Waterway PD140 120V or 240V) for the same horsepower as you have now (though a high head pump). For best results, get a PD270 (240V only) and run it long and slow with that sand filter for the best in water quality.

 

[William88gto]

You have a Hayward Super Pump.
You can try the capacitor first as it is an inexpensive test (about $12.00 if you don't go to a pool store) and may solve the issue.
If not, get a variable speed motor like the Century ECM16CU (no longer made but still available many places) and a GO KIT3 for the seal, gasket, O rings needed. It can be used with your existing time clock. It is for 240V only.

Or get a Nidec Neptune NPTT 165 variable-speed motor that no longer uses the time clock as it has its own control on the top of the motor. Still need the GO KIT3. It can operate on 120V as well as 240V

There are many YouTube videos on replacing the motor on that pump that can make it easy for you. Just be careful with the electrical portion and BE SURE that all power is off before working on the motor or pump.

There is nothing as good as new except new, so if you want a new pump look into a Waterway PD140 120V or 240V) for the same horsepower as you have now (though a high head pump). For best results, get a PD270 (240V only) and run it long and slow with that sand filter for the best in water quality.

Thanks for the input .
This may be a dumb question. But I am used to what I have and just don't know.
What Is the benefit of the VS. When you say run it long and slow for example, is that 24/7? That's what I have been doing. But I wouldn't mind a more efficient schedule if that is a thing.
Also, the current set up is 120v but again I am not against upgrading that to 240 if it made my options better or the system more efficient.
In case it makes a difference I have always thought that I could probably run my pump 1/2 as much, I have a screen enclosure over the pool and it keeps the temperature down enough that I had a heater installed. That being said, the pool store recommended running it 24/7, what are your thoughts there?

 

[1poolman1]

Thanks for the input .
This may be a dumb question. But I am used to what I have and just don't know.
What Is the benefit of the VS. When you say run it long and slow for example, is that 24/7? That's what I have been doing. But I wouldn't mind a more efficient schedule if that is a thing.
Also, the current set up is 120v but again I am not against upgrading that to 240 if it made my options better or the system more efficient.
In case it makes a difference I have always thought that I could probably run my pump 1/2 as much, I have a screen enclosure over the pool and it keeps the temperature down enough that I had a heater installed. That being said, the pool store recommended running it 24/7, what are your thoughts there?

We run the filter pump for a reason, enough to be sure the chemicals are mixed and the water skimmed and filtered, the water heated if necessary.
If it takes 24/7 for your pool that's what it takes.
The likelihood of your pool needing that is very remote, especially with a single-speed pump, unless your pool is enormous, or you have a heat-pump.
With a screened enclosure you shouldn't need to run very long to keep the water clean and if the water temp is OK, and you have a gas heater, six-eight hours would probably be enough. But again, you don't say how large the pool is.

 

[William88gto]

We run the filter pump for a reason, enough to be sure the chemicals are mixed and the water skimmed and filtered, the water heated if necessary.
If it takes 24/7 for your pool that's what it takes.
The likelihood of your pool needing that is very remote, especially with a single-speed pump, unless your pool is enormous, or you have a heat-pump.
With a screened enclosure you shouldn't need to run very long to keep the water clean and if the water temp is OK, and you have a gas heater, six-eight hours would probably be enough. But again, you don't say how large the pool is.

Sorry I should have mentioned the size. It is completely screened in. And I do have a heater but it is a heat pump and not gas.
That said. It is roughly 34x15ft. And 4ft deep on shallow end and 8ft on the other end.

 

[1poolman1]

Sorry I should have mentioned the size. It is completely screened in. And I do have a heater but it is a heat pump and not gas.
That said. It is roughly 34x15ft. And 4ft deep on shallow end and 8ft on the other end.

+/-24,000 gallons. With a heat pump you may need to run the pump longer as they are not particularly large BTU units and depend on the atmosphere for heat.

If you need to run 24/7/ you would definitely save energy (money) with a VSP. You could convert your existing to one, especially if you get a larger impeller (2.5THP) and a 2.7THP variable speed motor like the Nidec Neptune NPTT270. But you would need 240V for that to work. You run a VSP at a low enough speed to get the heater to function and you're good. Takes a little experimentation. A NPTT165 motor (120/240V) will work with your existing wet-end and just add a GO KIT 3 for the rest of the parts and you will have a VSP, but it will have to run at a higher RPM and the energy savings won't be as good.

Many on this forum like the Calimar/Black & Decker/Blue Torrent/Circupool 3THP VSP (same pump different label). Again, they are 240V.

If you want to stay with 120V, a Waterway PD165 will work, but, again, have to run at higher RPM to get the same results as a larger horsepower unit.

There are a lot of options right now.