Can a pool heater (and/or its heat exchanger) cause rusty water?

[Hoster]

Did some research and was not 100% sure whether an old pool heater (Rome Industries, AquaComfort S95) can cause rusty water (e.g., the heat exchanger is rotted) - I thought I "fixed" the issue by repairing rusty wall behind my liner last year but the rusty water is worse this year - posted by repair here last year.

Also, we do not use the heater at all (but we do run it once in awhile as maintenance), and whether the water runs through the heat exchanger regardless of the heater being on vs. off (just the heater core is not "hot", perhaps?)

Since we find ourselves dumping pounds of ascrobic acid almost on a daily basis, we are also wondering whether I can simply get rid of it. Is this a simply DIY to "reconnect" the piping?

Thanks!

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Do you have a bypass valve so that your pool circulation doesn't run thru the heater when not be heated?

 

[JamesW]

Pictures?

 

[Hoster]

I don't have a bypass valve (unless it is under the fan / inside the unit). While I do know a bit about most of pool equipments, I am in the dark with the heater .


Thanks for your quick response!

 

[JamesW]

Heat pumps usually do not have iron or steel.

You can undo the unions to see if you can see any iron stains in the plumbing.

 

[Hoster]

Heat pumps usually do not have iron or steel.

You can undo the unions to see if you can see any iron stains in the plumbing.

Thanks for the info. For now, I am not sure I would see any rust staining as I have been applying ascorbic acid frequently, but will certainly check. Sounds like the heater should not cause any rust staining issues, perhaps? This rust stain has been a big issue for me last 2+ years (which I thought I would have fixed with the wall repair but worse this year). Thanks again!

 

[JamesW]

Pictures of the whole pool?

 

[Hoster]

Here are some pictures of my pool, including the skimmers and the light - no significant rusting here. I did replace a small nut which was rusting (and disintegrating) in the pump filter with a stainless one. I did put in a bottle of metal out and have the CuLator (4.0) in the filter basket as well. Just called Rome Industries, and they indicated the water will run through the copper / nickel heat exchanger. Should this cause the rustry pool water?

In addition, (as of yesterday)
Water temp: 85
FC 2
Ph 7.4 (slightly lower than 7.5)
TA 150 (been dumping liquid chlorine due to a sudden cloudy / algae issue)
CH 60
CYA 50 (been adding pounds of CYA over 2 weeks but doesn't seem to increase - actually been decreasing for some reason - no backwashing - cleaned the pump filter a week ago)
Salt 3400
Thanks again for your help!!

 

[1poolman1]

Did some research and was not 100% sure whether an old pool heater (Rome Industries, AquaComfort S95) can cause rusty water (e.g., the heat exchanger is rotted) - I thought I "fixed" the issue by repairing rusty wall behind my liner last year but the rusty water is worse this year - posted by repair here last year.

Also, we do not use the heater at all (but we do run it once in awhile as maintenance), and whether the water runs through the heat exchanger regardless of the heater being on vs. off (just the heater core is not "hot", perhaps?)

Since we find ourselves dumping pounds of ascrobic acid almost on a daily basis, we are also wondering whether I can simply get rid of it. Is this a simply DIY to "reconnect" the piping?

Thanks!

Disconnect the plumbing from the heater. Connect the plumbing to itself and the heater is out of the system.

 

[Hoster]

Disconnect the plumbing from the heater. Connect the plumbing to itself and the heater is out of the system.

Thanks and Yes, that's what I am thinking (e.g., install a bypass valve or completely bypass the heater) but wanted to confirm as I am not 100% sure whether the heater (the copper / nickel) is actually causing the rusty water (the google search says "copper / nickels" do not rust but they can "corrode").

 

[1poolman1]

Thanks and Yes, that's what I am thinking (e.g., install a bypass valve or completely bypass the heater) but wanted to confirm as I am not 100% sure whether the heater (the copper / nickel) is actually causing the rusty water (the google search says "copper / nickels" do not rust but they can "corrode").

Didn't see "rusty" water in the pictures. There is no iron in the water-flow components of a heat pump, so no rust. Take a look inside one of your toilet tanks. Is the tank stained dark red/black. That's iron that is in the water from its source or the plumbing (old iron pipes?). Does your water supplier depend on well water? A great source of iron in water.

 

[Hoster]

Didn't see "rusty" water in the pictures. There is no iron in the water-flow components of a heat pump, so no rust. Take a look inside one of your toilet tanks. Is the tank stained dark red/black. That's iron that is in the water from its source or the plumbing (old iron pipes?). Does your water supplier depend on well water? A great source of iron in water.

No rust stains in the pool now as I have been applying ascorbic acid very frequently last / this season (every 2-3 days) - just dumped a few pounds this morning. I can post a picture in a day or two when it comes back.

And yes, I have checked our water and no rusty water from the source / city water - no wells here (I actually provided some ascorbic acid to a friend who had "rusty water" in his toilet tanks in the past so I know exactly what you are talking about ). Oh, and I think his city water may be on a different line / piping (as he lives two towns away from me).

Thanks for your feedback, as I continue this journey to find the ultimate source.

 

[1poolman1]

No rust stains in the pool now as I have been applying ascorbic acid very frequently last / this season (every 2-3 days) - just dumped a few pounds this morning. I can post a picture in a day or two when it comes back.

And yes, I have checked our water and no rusty water from the source / city water - no wells here (I actually provided some ascorbic acid to a friend who had "rusty water" in his toilet tanks in the past so I know exactly what you are talking about ). Oh, and I think his city water may be on a different line / piping (as he lives two towns away from me).

Thanks for your feedback, as I continue this journey to find the ultimate source.

You may want to add a good sequestering agent to your pool water. Also, ascorbic acid will cause a very high chlorine demand as it neutralizes chlorine.

 

[Hoster]

You may want to add a good sequestering agent to your pool water. Also, ascorbic acid will cause a very high chlorine demand as it neutralizes chlorine.

Yes, a great point.....I think that's the challenge as I may need to pick the right poison here.....rusty water vs. crystal clear water I usually add ascorbic acid when FC is close to zero (I was thinking the opposite - i.e., high chlorine reduces the efficacy of ascorbic acid).

Any recommendation of the sequestering agent of your choice? I have been leveraging this site and been able to avoid any kind of sequestering agent last 4-5 seasons but this season, I dumped this Pool Mate Metal Out from Amazon - due to the rusty water.

 

[1poolman1]

Yes, a great point.....I think that's the challenge as I may need to pick the right poison here.....rusty water vs. crystal clear water I usually add ascorbic acid when FC is close to zero (I was thinking the opposite - i.e., high chlorine reduces the efficacy of ascorbic acid).

Any recommendation of the sequestering agent of your choice? I have been leveraging this site and been able to avoid any kind of sequestering agent last 4-5 seasons but this season, I dumped this Pool Mate Metal Out from Amazon - due to the rusty water.

ScaleTec Plus, GLB Super Sequasol, Natural Chemistry Metal Free, Jack's Magic the PINK stuff are all good. I only deal with products I can get through my wholesalers as I know that they work. Other may as well. ScaleTec seems to be a very good product.

 

[Hoster]

ScaleTec Plus, GLB Super Sequasol, Natural Chemistry Metal Free, Jack's Magic the PINK stuff are all good. I only deal with products I can get through my wholesalers as I know that they work. Other may as well. ScaleTec seems to be a very good product.

Sounds good....I have used Natural Chem and Jack's (Purple stuff) in the past. Will get to it! Will run out and get 2 more jugs of chlorine (10 gallons total)