Asking for assistance - how to remove fine silt

[MeVsPool]

Hello, First Time Poster and Many Threads reader. I need assistance ( a how-to ) in removing fine silt.
I wasn't being successful in getting green water to turn to blue or clear.
Readings, from a pool store:
FAC 3
TAC 3
CH 590
CYA 40
TA 90
pH 7.4

Total Dissolved Solids were unchartable on their tester ( I've read many threads on TSD and know this is somewhat of a misnomer ).
Calcium Hardness is very high as well ( water input to pool is also very hard ). So emptying a portion of the pool to refresh with more hard water seems odd to me, but that is what is happening.

The suggestion from the store was to drain the pool and start over. That suggestion overwhelmed me, so I became a reader, then a member of TFP.

The pool match calculator also suggested removing 56% of the water. That's what I've done.

I'd like to remove fine silt now, before refilling. I don't have a great way to remove the silt though -- suggestions please.

Also, I've lost a brush in the pool and have no idea how to retrieve it ( the pool broke and the brush is submerged ) as I cannot see more than a few inches into the water.

 

[DeanP66]

If I were you, I would get my own quality test kit and test the water myself. Pool store testing can be spotty at best and in general is unreliable. They are also in the business of selling you product, especially specialty potions that you don't need. Stay out of the pool store and listen to these great folks here on this forum. It will be the best move you make for your pool. As for test kits, we only recommend two. The TF-100 or the Taylor K-2006C. I have the Taylor kit, although I bought it before I ever found this great site.

In regards to your silt issue, I would just wait until you get the pool clear and use a vacuum to pick it up. It should work just fine, as long as you have good pressure for suction. As for the brush, if you have a leaf catcher, try attaching it to your pole and take a few stabs at the bottom. Maybe you'll catch something. If not, don't worry about it until you can see the bottom.

To get your water clear, you'll need to do a SLAM (Shock, Level and Maintain). However, you really need accurate test results from your own test to proceed. Ideally, you want pH at 7.2 and CYA at around 30 to do a SLAM most efficiently. It's just a process where you raise your FC level up to SLAM level (depending on your CYA) and keep it there by adding bleach several times a day until the water is clear and you pass the 3 criteria to end the SLAM.

 

[MeVsPool]

In regards to your silt issue, I would just wait until you get the pool clear and use a vacuum to pick it up. It should work just fine, as long as you have good pressure for suction.

As for the brush, if you have a leaf catcher, try attaching it to your pole and take a few stabs at the bottom.
Maybe you'll catch something. If not, don't worry about it until you can see the bottom.

Thanks, Dean.

My main question was and is " I'd like to remove fine silt now, before refilling. I don't have a great way to remove the silt though -- suggestions please.

 

[jblizzle]

Where is the silt, sitting on the bottom? If so, then you need to run a cleaner or vacuum it out. But, since the pool is only half full and you can not see more than 2 inches, that is not really going to work either. There really is not option beyond filling it up and clearing up the water following the SLAM Process process.

But, the algae will just return if you keep trying to rely on the pool store.

 

[MeVsPool]

run a cleaner or vacuum it out.
pool is only half full and you can not see more than 2 inches, that is not really going to work either.
There really is not option beyond filling it up and clearing up the water following the SLAM Process process.

Thanks, Jason.
I started using a device that has a hose and pole on it -- the water rushes into a rounded funnel into a collector bag.
This tool is removing some of the decomposing leaves and silt.

Do you have a vacuum brand or cleaner brand suggestion?

I used the SLAM Process process over the course of days and 20 gallons of chlorine and could never get an overnight chlorine reading.

I've ordered a TF-100 to determine if my original test kit results are comparable.

There seems to be so much TDS the chemicals are being eaten by sunlight and algae before they're able to work. Using the CYA / Chlorine chart was how I got to the SLAM amount . . .

Do you recommend having the pump on recirculate during the SLAM Process process? And once you can actually see the water getting clearer moving into filter?

 

[jblizzle]

I really have no recommendation on a vac or cleaner ... so many options, depends what you want.

TDS has nothing to to so with chemicals getting "eaten" by sunlight or algae. The ONLY thing that consumes FC is the sun and organics in the water.

What test kit did you have? If it did not have a FAS-DPD chlorine test, then there is no way you were properly following the SLAM process.

With a DE filter, I would probably run on recirculate until the water was milky and not green, and then start to filter everything out. The DE filters just clog up so fast.

Wait ... you have a 24sqft DE filter on a 25k pool? That is WAY too small. I have a 60sqft on an 18k pool. You are going to have to be cleaning that filter over and over and over again (I would not be surprised if it clogged up in a matter of hours) to clear up the water.

 

[MeVsPool]

so many options, depends what you want.

TDS has nothing to to so with chemicals getting "eaten" by sunlight or algae. The ONLY thing that consumes FC is the sun and organics in the water.

What test kit did you have? If it did not have a FAS-DPD chlorine test, then there is no way you were properly following the SLAM process.

With a DE filter, I would probably run on recirculate until the water was milky and not green, and then start to filter everything out.

Wait ... you have a 24sqft DE filter on a 25k pool?

Thanks jblizzle. Lots of helpful stuff in your response.

I have no idea what I want in terms of a cleaner or vacuum . . . something I could build or purchase at a reasonable cost that lasts more than one season. I feel like it would be a waste of money to invest in either without some recommendations.

Speaking of "no idea" -- it seems to me that TDS would be made up of organics and if organics, and sunlight, can consume FC . . . there you go.

I have a TFP Test kit on order -- I used a hodge podge of kits -- aqua chem, taylor, guardex(?) -- to build a FAS-DPD test. I don't think it worked as I was unable to get the test to return from pink or red to clear. I must be causing user error or misunderstanding of how FAS comes into play during testing, so I'm working on that.

I like the confirmation of recirculate. Thanks.

The filter is clogged within hours. I've spent countless hours cleaning it. So many, in fact, "over and over and over again" doesn't even begin to touch how many over agains have happened. I wouldn't be surprised if the filter manifold or some of the filters are damaged. I imagine I'll figure that out when I have milky enough water to actually begin using the filter again.

Is there a chart in the forums, or a sticky, that discusses how to correctly size the filter, and I do intend to search for that, but if you have a link or suggestions that would be helpful too.

 

[jblizzle]

There is a chart somewhere, but mine estimate would be you should have a 60sqft DE filter at the smallest.

There is an article in pool school about cleaners. It really depends if you just want to manual vacuum which is going to be the cheapest or if you want an automated system that runs with your pool pump or if you want an electric robot that is completely independent of your pool equipment. Those are in order of increasing cost.

 

[MeVsPool]

There is a chart somewhere, but mine estimate would be you should have a 60sqft DE filter at the smallest.

There is an article in pool school about cleaners. It really depends if you just want to manual vacuum which is going to be the cheapest or if you want an automated system that runs with your pool pump or if you want an electric robot that is completely independent of your pool equipment. Those are in order of increasing cost.

Thanks for the suggestions.

I found "Hydraulics 101 - Have you lost your head?"

I'll look at the cleaners section as well.

 

[jblizzle]

Yeah there is a table in that thread although I think we sort of modify some of the recommendations to make it a more trouble free pool. For example I think we make the de filters and cartridge filters larger so that less cleaning is required.