Are CMP and Waterways a good 3 way 2" PVC valve to use for pool plumbing?

[plnewb]

The pool plumbing currently uses these style 3 way 2" PVC valves:

Amazon.com

I was wondering if I can replace these with these Waterway or CMP instead:

Diverter Valve, CMP, 3-Port, 2", Vertical, Top Access, 5-Scallop, Gray : 25048-019-000

Diverter Valve ---Additional Information Plumbing Connection: 2" Slip Color: Gray Valve Orientation: VerticalAlternate Part Numbers

partsforspas.com

https://lesliespool.com/waterway-2in.-3-port-diverter-valve-black/621760.html

I understand the input port is at the bottom but what excites me is that these seem to be made for hot tubs, so I'm assuming these are either CPVC or atleast some kind of a high temperature resistant PVC?

Any issues or gotchas I might be missing?

 

[HermanTX]

I could not find the manual for either one. Are they repairable? Are parts available?

The Pentair 3-way valve you currently have is repairable by changing out the inner parts.

 

[plnewb]

The orings are available on most online sites. I was able to locate one oddball site that had the actual diverter piece.

How reliable are the actual CMP or Waterways company's products?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Just stick with one of the big three. With the valves you have linked, you'll not be able to add actuators. Jandy, Pentair, and Hayward all have CPVC versions and they use the same style actuators.

 

[plnewb]

Good point about the actuators!

Just stick with one of the big three. With the valves you have linked, you'll not be able to add actuators. Jandy, Pentair, and Hayward all have CPVC versions and they use the same style actuators.

1. In theory this is correct but in practice it's my understanding that there's incompatibility with the screw lengths and threads which don't make the actuators exactly easily swappable as we would like?
2. Is there a reason I should pay $100+ per actuator when I can purchase these for 1/3rd the price if I am going to build my own controller:

Amazon.com

The specific valves I linked to actually have a square hub where the handle attaches to and I can directly connect the motor's shaft to it, so this WiFi motor won't move any handles - moves the hub the handle
would have gone into.

I do understand the parts I am using are highly non-standard and not how pools are typically setup and it will confuse the heck out of a pool service person but my ultimate objective is to build an universal, non brand specific, fully open source pool controller that doesnt use specific OEM parts but fully functional.

 

[ajw22]

1. In theory this is correct but in practice it's my understanding that there's incompatibility with the screw lengths and threads which don't make the actuators exactly easily swappable as we would like?

In practice if you start with the correct actuator for your diverter valve then you have the correct screws to use any other brand actuator without a problem.

2. Is there a reason I should pay $100+ per actuator when I can purchase these for 1/3rd the price if I am going to build my own controller:

Amazon.com

The specific valves I linked to actually have a square hub where the handle attaches to and I can directly connect the motor's shaft to it, so this WiFi motor won't move any handles - moves the hub the handle
would have gone into.

It looks like that motorized valve controller turns 90 degrees to close a knife valve while the diverter valve requires a 180 degree rotation.

I do understand the parts I am using are highly non-standard and not how pools are typically setup and it will confuse the heck out of a pool service person but my ultimate objective is to build an universal, non brand specific, fully open source pool controller that doesnt use specific OEM parts but fully functional.

My pool is 20 years old and still using the same standard OEM parts it was built with.

You seem to think that non-brand specific parts will be better long term. I have doubts that you will be able to buy that Chinese made valve controller 3 years from now, let alone 20 years form now, when it needs replacement.

Good luck building your pool with non-standard parts. I think it will devalue your pool when you go to sell the house. As well as make it impossible for anyone but you to maintain your pool and equipment.

There are long-term benefits to standardization.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

2. Is there a reason I should pay $100+ per actuator when I can purchase these for 1/3rd the price if I am going to build my own controller:

I agree with @ajw22. Lots of us DIY automation systems, but why skimp are such a critical hardware component? I built my own automation system with Jandy diverters and Intermatic actuators.

 

[IUsedToSail]

Personally I wouldn't want the generic actuators proxying through a no-name brand's Chinese owned server or cloud service to issue commands to an IOT device on my home network. A recipe for disaster in my opinion.

 

[plnewb]

I wouldn't want the generic actuators proxying through a no-name brand's Chinese owned server or cloud service

Very valid concern - I am very picky about this concern as well.

All of these controllers can be flashed when open source firmware that doesn't need to use a cloud.

Also, if someone isn't technically able or interested in flashing, it's possible to setup a completely separate network on your router that the Chinese owned server or cloud service routes through and keeps your home traffic separate. I am actually very lazy and don't flash a lot of these cheap devices but run them through a bandwidth throttled separate network. On the whole all these cheap devices use ~30MB/month sending sensor data to Amazon servers.

 

[Getitrite]

Last year, I wanted to replace my aged Hayward suction Ball valve with Jandy Diverter valve. Inyo was a good choice for ordering, but alas, Jandy was out of stock (as were many other sources I tried). Based upon their description of the CMP and replacement parts, I decided to go with it.

"It is identical to the Never Lube valves and all parts are interchangeable."

Happy to say, since installation, NO Suction Side air leaks, NO drain back if motor is turned off, NO pump basket problems, Positive Adjustment of Skimmer/Main suction balance. (No need for me to accommodate actuator automation, even in the future.) Works for me. FWIW

 

[plnewb]

Very useful input!

Does this look like the valve you ended up purchasing?

2 in. Diverter 3-Way Valve 25913-204-000

Buy 2 in. Diverter 3-Way Valve 25913-204-000 for the best price and Free Shipping.

bestpoolshop.com

Do you recall where (Inyo?) and at what price?

 

[1poolman1]

Good point about the actuators!



1. In theory this is correct but in practice it's my understanding that there's incompatibility with the screw lengths and threads which don't make the actuators exactly easily swappable as we would like?
2. Is there a reason I should pay $100+ per actuator when I can purchase these for 1/3rd the price if I am going to build my own controller:

Amazon.com

The specific valves I linked to actually have a square hub where the handle attaches to and I can directly connect the motor's shaft to it, so this WiFi motor won't move any handles - moves the hub the handle
would have gone into.

I do understand the parts I am using are highly non-standard and not how pools are typically setup and it will confuse the heck out of a pool service person but my ultimate objective is to build an universal, non brand specific, fully open source pool controller that doesnt use specific OEM parts but fully functional.

Having used virtually every brand actuator with every other brand 3-way valve, I have never had an issue with using the included screws, regardless of the mix.
The actuator you reference likely won't have the torque required to turn a pool valve and the mounting would be an issue. Buy one designed to work with pool equipment and it will last many years. I have some on customer's pools that I installed 20 years ago still working.