AquaCal Tropical R410A trouble

[mt hwy]

I have the above heat pump, looks fairly old but has worked well. The display is blown, previously could see some light where the letters are displayed but nothing readable and dry and cracked there. Unit is left off when I’m not here. Before my recent arrival my neighbor turned it on and verified that unit was running, fan on. I get here and after a day notice heat pump not running. Fan motor capacitors were replaced 1 to 2 years ago and looked good. I can’t see any light on the display panel letter area. There is voltage to the unit. The circuit board has a ‘status’ light on it which is not lit. I have someone sending me a new display, I believe it is an Aquacal ECS0276, which plugs into the circuit board with an Ethernet style plug. I’m hoping it lights up and will show a readable error code.

I’m somewhat concerned that the old display has no light on it, and that the circuit board ‘status’ light is not lit - wondering if a transformer is bad? Or, what does anyone recommend? At what point do I call a pool tech? I know I need to install the new display but helping me plan ahead, what should I be looking at? I understand I may need a new heat pump, but I’m a Do it Yourselfer and would like to repair this unit, within reason …

 

[ajw22]

If you are a DIYer then you know how to use a multimeter. Don't wonder if the transformer is bad. It is basic electrical troubleshooting to check transformer input and output voltage.

As long as your problems are with the electronics and controls then it is basic electrical work. My concern would be what parts are available to you and what electrical diagrams are available.

Good luck getting it going.

 

[mt hwy]

I believe the R410A is the refrigerant … looks like there is a capacitor for the compressor and one for the fan - both check out. I think that what is the transformer- kind of in the middle of the pic - is putting out 27 volts. Since looking at the whole thing, I noticed it comes on for about 5 seconds, then shuts off. I can turn the breaker on and off, but the reset time for it to fire up/shut is a longer time period. I believe the valves are working and the filter is a big relatively new Hayward 1750 so I don’t think there is a water shortage to the heat pump.

Any thoughts on what would make it fire up then shut down like this? Again, no display to get error codes - the guy supposedly sending me a new one now says he doesn’t have one but may be able to get me a working used one …

 

[ajw22]

When was the last time it ran?

HPs are just AC units in reverse. They have sensors for high and low refrigerant pressures. Usually the unit shuts down due to a refrigerant pressure problem. The control board has timers to control the cycling of the compressors.

 

[mt hwy]

I ran it continuously for a week approx one month ago. It was here when I bought the house 5 years ago, an Aquacal 115AHDSBTB, looks beat but has worked well. Rarely goes more than a month without being used. Not sure I have equipment or know-how to check refrigerant pressures. Do you recommend I have a heat pump or HVAC tech check it? Also, if I had a working display I assume this would show up as a Fault Code?

 

[ajw22]

An HVAC tech can connect up his pressure gauges and check the refrigerant pressures.

He should know how to override the board and see if the compressor runs.

It all depends on the experience of the HVAC tech.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Is the contactor working? It’s the thing next to the transformer. It receives a 24V signal to close the contacts on the relay and apply power to the compressor and fans. Contactors can die too.

 

[mt hwy]

I’ll work on checking the contactor tomorrow - not sure how to do that? - if you have any suggestions. Thank you.

But just looked around online, it looks cheap enough. May be worth replacing, if I can find one. When i checked compressor and fan capacitors I first shorted across terminals and didn’t get an arc so maybe they were not energized? .. so maybe contactor is not working?

 

[mt hwy]

Contactor had a small cover over it, took that off and checked function and resistance of its coil, looked fine. Received new (used) Display, plugs into control board with an Ethernet type connector - plugged that in and everything worked! Old display had a cracked face and was filled with water, something must have shorted in it and prevented unit from working. New display is plug and play, has an updated face. Thanks for all the replies. I peeled a little of the old display face off to dry it out - I’ll save it …