Algaecide? Yay or Nay?

Jun 3, 2018
5
Chapin, IL
New to the TFP method and had a question about algaecide.

Pool is open, water is crystal clear and tests are good. (PH is on the high end of normal and am in the process of lowering it some)

I have NOT added algaecide to the pool yet, and didn't want to buy it if I didn't need to since it can't be returned.

Do I need to add some and then add weekly to maintain or am I ok as long as my water tests good and I don't have any algae growth?

Test results:

FC 2.6
TC 3.1
CC 0.5
PH 7.8
TA 90
CH 194
CYA 48

Thanks for your help!
 
Cya of 48 means you got it tested in a store, highly skeptical of stores testing procedures.

But, if it is that high you need to maintain a minimum of 5-6ppm chlorine. You are low now and tempting the cloudy/green monster.

Its not needed if you follow TFP guidelines, but it can fight off a bloom if your chlorine drops below targeted values every now and then.
 
No. A properly chlorinated pool will have no algae growth, so algaecides are not required. Furthermore, many of them contain substances such as copper that you do not want in your pool, as it can stain the pool and turn hair and nails green.

I notice that your results appear to be from a pool store. At TFP, we strongly recommend that your obtain one of our two recommended test kits, either the TF-100 or K-2006 and perform your own testing. Accurate numbers are essential to the TFP method, and pool store testing has been proven to be suspect at best and often wildly inaccurate. Please read our Pool School page to understand what we do and why we do it.

I also notice that your FC level is dangerously low for your CYA (assuming those readings are correct). FC should always be kept at least 7.5% of CYA or higher to keep algae at bay. With CYA at 50 (always round up), your FC should never be allowed to fall below 4 ppm. Otherwise, you are inviting algae to take up residence.

Use our Pool Math (either page or app) and determine how much liquid chlorine, aka laundry bleach, to add to bring your FC up to 4-5 ppm. We only use liquid forms of chlorine, as solid powders or pucks add more CYA to your water, which then requires even higher FC levels. Eventually CYA reaches a point at which you can no longer keep sufficient FC in your water and you have to drain your pool and start all over again.

Be sure to use only plain, unscented, non-splashless bleach, or pool-specific liquid chlorine. It's the same stuff, sodium hypochlorite, just at different concentrations.
 
Algaecide is an unnecessary expense for the huge majority of pool owners. As long as you maintain sufficient FC for your CYA level (And note that CYA levels increase if you've been chlorinating with pucks or doing the weekly shock-thing with powdered chlorine) you won't get algae. So you don't need algaecide, or for that matter, phosphate remover. The pool store, however, needs the sales. Be aware that some algaecides contain copper, which is great if you like green hair, and others react with chlorine so the two actually deplete each other!
 
Thank you everyone! The results I posted are from a pool store. I had to improvise with a water test kit by getting a couple of different ones because the hubby wasn't too keen on the cost of the ones that are recommended...ugh!!! (going to try and sneak one into the Amazon cart though :D) I did explain WHY I need one of the other 2 and how it will save us lots of $$$$ on chemicals. I've read all of the Pool School links and have strongly encouraged the hubby to do the same.

With the tests I have everything is very close to what the pool store test showed EXCEPT CYA. I am showing 30 and I really don't want to be any higher than that. Chlorine pucks have been removed from the pool and I will discontinue use of them immediately! I am curious why they would tell me the combined chlorine is high and they recommended I shock for breakpoint chlorination to reduce the level??? I don't feel like this is a good recommendation for me and am NOT going to do anything they recommend.

I really need one of the test kits so I can be an accurate mad scientist :crazy:
 
Thank you everyone! The results I posted are from a pool store. I had to improvise with a water test kit by getting a couple of different ones because the hubby wasn't too keen on the cost of the ones that are recommended...ugh!!! (going to try and sneak one into the Amazon cart though :D) I did explain WHY I need one of the other 2 and how it will save us lots of $$$$ on chemicals. I've read all of the Pool School links and have strongly encouraged the hubby to do the same.

With the tests I have everything is very close to what the pool store test showed EXCEPT CYA. I am showing 30 and I really don't want to be any higher than that. Chlorine pucks have been removed from the pool and I will discontinue use of them immediately! I am curious why they would tell me the combined chlorine is high and they recommended I shock for breakpoint chlorination to reduce the level??? I don't feel like this is a good recommendation for me and am NOT going to do anything they recommend.

I really need one of the test kits so I can be an accurate mad scientist :crazy:
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.5 CC is considered the same as zero around here. The pool store just wants your money.

I find it fascinating after working as a mechanic for years. A person can come to me complaining of a thumping sound, but hesitate when I try to sell him a new tire because, you know, mechanics are all crooks. Doesn't matter that he brought it to me with a complaint; he knows something is wrong. But that same guy will take a sample of water to the pool store - water that he may have no complaint about; it could be crystal clear - and he'll buy whatever they tell him to buy. You are wise and about a thousand bucks ahead of most people when they reach the same conclusion you have to stay out of the pool store.

Find out what your copay is for a late-night trip to the urgent care hauling a crying kid with an ear infection or pinkeye. Don't forget the prescription copay for drops. Compare to cost of decent test kit. Present evidence to husband. Threaten that he gets to take child to ER while you get to sleep.
 
Good idea Richard, I'll definitely bring that up. We don't have an ER copay, we have a $4,000 deductible which is much higher than the cost of one of the test kits!

I paid a lot of attention to what my mom and step-dad did with their pool, and all I remember is them spending a lot of money at the pool store on chemicals. They spent several thousand opening their pool one year and it wasn't half as bad as what I was dealing with this year. Bleach and SLAMming is the way to go!
 
Richard320 i like your logic and reasoning even if they are "what if" scenarios. I was hesitant for 2 years to buy the k-2006 kit cause it was $70 and relied off my HTH 6-way testing kit with the OTO. I got by with it just fine and it told me everything I needed to know what the exception of anything above FC 5 PPM. Following all the SLAM procedures blind if i had to by the pool calc. Last year I ponied up for the test kit, an Amazon sent me two kits and billed me for it. So this year I gave the one test kit to my older lady friend who keeps having issues every year and spends thousands of dollars hiring pool people, and I'm trying to teach her how to catch a fish rather than give her one. Still best $70 i ever spent in compairson to $350 at pool store 5 years ago before i came across TFP. My pool water is like a well-oiled machine unless I neglect it in the fall. In which case now I have the experience of clearing out the nastiest of swamps, and that test kit always reliably lets me know where I'm at. This year's swamp was in record time. Clear green water from my cover cable snapping and leaves falling in the side of the pool. I got it crystal clear in 5 days with SLAM, triple filtration, and just a couple of jugs of 6% bleach, as opposed to going through 10 jugs in previous swamp years.
 

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