12x24 above ground pool buried with pics.

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J

jsengxx

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Jul 17, 2012
29
Hello,

Here are some pics off my 12x24 above ground pool that is buried. The deck will be made in spring when the dirt is settled.

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I have put foam under the liner but forget to take a pics:(

I have one question regarding the pool pump. The manufacturer stated this combo pump and 45kg sand filter as 4m3/h that is about 1000 gph but on the pump it is has a sticker on it with 3m3/h and that is about 800gph. It is a 125W filter (0.18hp) so I can run it for 24/7 with a minimum off electricity consumption but when I go too vacuum the pool I notice that it has little suction power. I have googled a little on internet and found out that the pool pump is of chines make and that they have 3 different pumps, 125W, 180W and 230W but esteticly they are the same. ( http://www.aquant.com.cn/pro_detail.asp?id=953 ).

With regard to the pool pump I think this system is capable off circulating the water at 800gph instead of the mentioned 1000gph. The pool pump is the limited factor is it?
Can I boost this pump up so it can work at a higher wattage without over heating it?
I have seen the intex combos sand filter + pump but how can they make a combo with such a small sand filter compared with my filter?
I have installed a main drain in the pool but there is very little suction only when I turn off the skimmer I can feel suction with my foots on it but when I open the skimmer valve I can´t feel any suction at all. Is it better too open the 2 valves ( skimmer and main drain) when filtering ore only use the skimmer?

I´am using the BBB method to sanitise my pool and I think I have crystal clear water, you can´t see it on the picture because off no sun:( but when the sun is shinning it sparkles.

Thanks,
 
As for your pump questions, that's a small pump but it should work, you'll just have to run it longer, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. The big question is if it's big enough to backwash the filter properly?

I'm not sure what the backwash spec is for your filter but I'd check that and see if 800 gph (13 gpm) is enough to effectively backwash it.

It's normal not to be able to feel any suction at the main drain unless it's the only source open to the pump. (Note: in the U.S. you shouldn't feel hardly any suction even if it's the only source open, due to the design of the drains.). You should run both lines open, but adjust the main drain valve to get good skimmer action.
 
Bama Rambler said:
As for your pump questions, that's a small pump but it should work, you'll just have to run it longer, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. The big question is if it's big enough to backwash the filter properly?

I'm not sure what the backwash spec is for your filter but I'd check that and see if 800 gph (13 gpm) is enough to effectively backwash it.

It's normal not to be able to feel any suction at the main drain unless it's the only source open to the pump. (Note: in the U.S. you shouldn't feel hardly any suction even if it's the only source open, due to the design of the drains.). You should run both lines open, but adjust the main drain valve to get good skimmer action.
Click to expand...


Hello,

I´am happy with this pump. I run it for 16H and so I have 2 times the volume off my water passing threw the filter. The only thing is when I have to vacuum clean the pool, I have little suction power whit the vacuum head that I have. It is the vacuum head that is for concrete pools with weels on it. Maybe I have to tray another vacuum head. I have seen here an automatic cleaner that is made for pools with small pumps, min pump hp for that cleaner is 0,1cv so I have 0,18hp. I don´t know if there is a manual vacuum head that works good with small pumps?
I have backwashed the filter one time and the water was coming out very dark for about 2-3min after that it was clean, rinsed the filter for another minute and it was as good as new. So I think it does a good backwashing job.

I was wandering if there is something internally in the pump that I can change so I can run it at a higher wattage without over heating it?

Thanks,
JJ
 
Speedo said:
This is what I would like for my next pool!! How deep is it?
Click to expand...

It is 48 inch and I dished the bottom out where the main drain is for another 6 inch. The next time when I have to change the liner I will order the liner from the 52 inch model and will cut the straps out, I think they are not required when the dirt is settled, and dish the bottom out for about 12/15 inch.
 
Motors are hard-wired at a certain rating and can't easily or cheaply be changed. You can swap it to a higher rated one, but you'd have to change the impeller too, and at that point you're probably looking at close to the cost of a new pump.
 
jsengxx said:
Speedo said:
This is what I would like for my next pool!! How deep is it?
Click to expand...

It is 48 inch and i dished the bottom where the main drain is for another 6 inch. The next time when I have to change the liner I will order the liner from the 52 inch model and will cut the staps out, I think they are not required when the dirt is settled, and dish the bottom out for about 12/15 inch.
Click to expand...


You should always know that standard above ground pools are not designed to be buried. They do sell above ground pools that are designed to be partially buried though for example http://www.royalswimmingpools.com/Bermu ... l-Kits.htm

The problem comes into play when you change the liner. When you bury a regular above ground pool the liner is in place and there is water in the pool. The water in the pool stops the walls from caving inwards from the dirt pushing against the pool walls. When you change your liner though the dirt is already in place so when the water is removed from the pool you hope and pray that the dirt is self supporting because if it wants to move the "tin can thickness" wall isn't going to stop it. Regular above ground pools are designed to be strong when pushing outwards (to support the water) the bracing doesn't help much in the other direction.
 

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With a doughboy that's designed to be buried, assuming it's still 12-18" above ground; would that cause a problem?

If the liner had to be changed, is it possible to dig out a foot or two around the pool and essentially re-bury it? (dig out, replace liner, refill then re-bury)

It will be some time before my next pool, but I would love an inground. Assuming that I could get a 15x30 buried doughboy vs inground for $15-20k less, I would likely consider it.
 
X-PertPool said:
jsengxx said:
Speedo said:
This is what I would like for my next pool!! How deep is it?
Click to expand...

It is 48 inch and i dished the bottom where the main drain is for another 6 inch. The next time when I have to change the liner I will order the liner from the 52 inch model and will cut the staps out, I think they are not required when the dirt is settled, and dish the bottom out for about 12/15 inch.
Click to expand...


You should always know that standard above ground pools are not designed to be buried. They do sell above ground pools that are designed to be partially buried though for example http://www.royalswimmingpools.com/Bermu ... l-Kits.htm

The problem comes into play when you change the liner. When you bury a regular above ground pool the liner is in place and there is water in the pool. The water in the pool stops the walls from caving inwards from the dirt pushing against the pool walls. When you change your liner though the dirt is already in place so when the water is removed from the pool you hope and pray that the dirt is self supporting because if it wants to move the "tin can thickness" wall isn't going to stop it. Regular above ground pools are designed to be strong when pushing outwards (to support the water) the bracing doesn't help much in the other direction.
Click to expand...


I know that the water is supporting the pressure off the dirt but if the dirt settles for at least 2 years ( the ground here is very hard, for digging you must use a pickaxe) you can safely change the liner. I´am talking about leaving the pool for max 3 days without water.
 
Bama Rambler said:
Motors are hard-wired at a certain rating and can't easily or cheaply be changed. You can swap it to a higher rated one, but you'd have to change the impeller too, and at that point you're probably looking at close to the cost of a new pump.
Click to expand...

I have another question:

Can I change just the motor off the pool pump?
I have here and old motor that is 0,33hp and I have dismantled it so now I have only the engine. It is 310w but on the plate the rpm is only 1370.
Is the impeller off an larger pool pump bigger then my engine? If I change the engine with the original impeller from my pool pump will the rpm rise? 125w vs 310w?

Thanks,
JJ
 
Changing the motor to a larger power rating with the same speed won't increase the flow unless you change the impeller.

Since the larger motor you have is designed to run slower, it will provide even less flow than the one you have now.
 
Bama Rambler said:
Changing the motor to a larger power rating with the same speed won't increase the flow unless you change the impeller.

Since the larger motor you have is designed to run slower, it will provide even less flow than the one you have now.
Click to expand...

Ok. Than the only option is changing the hole unit for a better one. So for now I will stick to this unit until it is dead:). This pool pump is doing a good job only when I´am vacuum the pool I miss suction power. I´am gona tray the triangular vacuum head with brushes maybe this head will give me better suction power.

Thanks,
JJ
 
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