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I plan to use a hacksaw to remove the heads of the bolts that are rusted and then slide off the manifold since the bolts only screw into the heater and not into the actual manifold itself so if I remove the good bolts, then saw off the heads of the rusted ones, it should slide right off for me...

I removed some and no water came out. Probably the heat exchanger as stated above.

Thanks. I'm going to replace the manifold with the 10 bolts and do some checking to see what is rusting out beyond that. In the meantime, I have to drill and use a screw removal bit to get 5 of the 10 bolts out. Lots of fun. I'll report back as this develops. Also, regarding the pool...

Here are some more photos. This unit was rusty like this when we bought the house 3 years ago, so this is more of the same. It may have a slow leak or it is the humidity (we are in North Houston) and between that and the saltwater, and possibly a small leak, it is rusting. I would like to...

I have a SW pool and evidently the saltiness of the water rusted out the contacts for the HLS on my Max E Therm SR400NA heater. I replaced the HLS, added new sliding L shaped connectors, etc.... My question is how to avoid the rusting in the future? Perhaps I need to cover it with a rubber...

So I have a portable volleyball net setup with bases on either side of the pool that are not anchored to the pool deck in any way. The idea is you fill up the bases with water and that provides weight to relatively keep them stable. Well, after a while, they leak water and they lighten up and...

See this post for background. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/polaris-quattro-sport-side-pressure-cleaner-drive-shaft-repair-and-fix.283053/#post-2489837 Does anyone know a good plastic adhesive that will hold in saltwater under torque to fix my driveshaft? Epoxy? Thanks.

I have a Polaris Quattro Sport and I have messed around with it a bit (replaced drive shaft, etc...). If the drive shaft was broken and it is doing the exact same thing before and after, that's interesting. I say this because I had a broken drive shaft and the symptom was one of the turbines...

If you think you are rather handy and can figure things out, I highly recommend, when you begin having trouble with your cleaner (probably side pressure cleaners may be best for this task), buy a nonworking model off Ebay for really cheap and use it for spare parts. This is probably an approach...

See this thread. Was able to fix as per the last post in this thread. So thankful for this forum and YT! Probably saved me $500-$1000. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/prologic-check-system-no-cell-power-2-error.178022/

You don't need my agreement here, but I agree that the titration approach is much more reliable.

Had it since April 2021 so over 2 years and well out of warranty. I recommend these for the ease of working on. I purchased a nonworking model off Ebay for parts for $100 and it was WELL WORTH IT! I could even fix that one for cheap and have a backup. To me, the most annoying design flaw is...

Update....drive shaft appears to work fine with glue job. We'll monitor to see how long it holds. After opening this one up, IMO, anyone can repair a number of things on these....they are super easy to work on. I consider this a successful repair.

ok so it was the drive shaft so you can see below I am attempting to gorilla glue it back. I have a parts only sport in the way to me off Ebay that will have a good drive shafts hopefully but figured what’s the harm trying to glue this one? BTW, note that the area that it broke is right where...

One turbine was hardly moving, other is moving fine and picking up debris as usual and all other moving parts are moving fine. It is the drive shaft which has white trapezoidal gears which drive the turbines.

Ok much appreciated!

I admit that when you are new to a pool (whether you built it or bought a house with a pool and you've never had one), you need to test EVERYTHING frequently so you get to know the characteristics of your pool chemical additives, weather, climate, seasons, etc.... I would say for the first...

Ok....help me understanding something, seriously. I see recommendation after recommendation to test for TA, however, isn't the point of testing TA is to understand if you're too alkaline in your pool water, and if so, you need to add acid to bring down the TA? If the above is the case, then...

I never test TA...only pH, chlorine and CYA...never have an issue.

It's a shame because their skimmer baskets work great!

Isn’t this just a gimmick? If your filter isn’t able to make your water sparkle (assuming chemicals and such are good to go), then you need filter maintenance or replacement…not a pill! ha ha

You can use pragmatics.....add some acid, run pump on high for a few hours, retest and if the pH is still too high, add some more, repeat until pH is level. Then you get a sense of what amount of acid you had to add to get your pH down to an acceptable level from the original reading. Of...