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Ammonia consumes FC completely. You just have algae consuming the FC you're adding, faster than you're adding it. Anyone in the house or a neighbor you can pay to clear the pool using the ? You're going to really struggle with being gone often.

Just to answer this specific question. You can 100% be within TFP recommendations with the above values and experience no issues. Your FC would be above the min for the FC/CYA relationship. TFP recommends higher CYA for SWCG pools because it lessens the FC demand, lengthening the life of the...

I use a skimmer sock just tied around the end of my brush or net pole. It's super easy. Even once I can squeeze it from the sock, it is still not fully dissolved. Even though you had in a sock in skimmer, a portion may still be fairly undissolved if it built up in filter. It'll get there though

@sleepingrudi - In Florida, exactly how long do you expect your pool water to be under ~55-60ºF? You probably have 9+ months of SWCG use, no? No reason for you to remove cell in "winter", nor should you ever have to clean it if you properly manage CSI.

Wise choice on the test kit. Assume the CYA is there, but I've found it can be several days in my 30k gal pool to register accurately. I use the sock method in front of a return; it's wise to avoid any potential for CYA to build up in filter as that just slows everything down.

Your new target should be to never, ever get remotely close to minimum. There's no reason to micro-manage FC to be low; just find somewhere comfortably high enough to never get close to min. For me, if my min is 3, I try to never see less than 10 once the water is warm, sun is out, and the SWCG...

Without any CYA, FC is almost immediately consumed by UV. So it's wise to have at least a baseline of CYA. If you were to do as you explain, your FC would be under minimum very often, likely leading to algae. Tabs are not inherently a problem if you manage CYA; for instance, use during...

I would do another acid to drop pool to 7.2. Your TA probably needs to be 50-60 to prevent pH rise, but you have some CSI leeway considering your water temp is still fairly cool. So if you want to take a break and let it warm up, you're in a good spot.

Any sand in the pool? Water source for pool in municipal supply? Can you post a few pics of pool from a few different angles including the equipment pad?

Share a full set of test results. FC far above SLAM level is not wise - risk to pool finish and pool equipment.

CYA of 40, SLAM level is 16. Most of your results logged are under that, but not by a ton. The last result where you were at 9.5 is concerning. Either you still have a large organic presence consuming, or your replenishment levels are fluctuating too much.

Two things: 1) Higher CYA allows for lower SWCG demand, lengthening plate life. 2) SWCG doesn't get sick, tired, or go on vacation. So the risk of higher CYA (basically impossible to SLAM) is negated by the consistency of the SWCG.

You went from 13.5 FC to 5.5 FC in one day??

Post a full set of test results. Generally more wise to add liquid chlorine to get up to proper level for CYA, then let SWCG maintain it. If you have no CYA, then FC won't hold, that's a core tenant of TFP. Not sure why you added algaecide. Do you follow TFP methods generally? Curious why...

Using PoolMath to estimate? 8.2 to 7.5 is 191oz of MA at 28000 gallons.

Compared to concrete and decking, piping is not what will make you cry. What will make you cry is ripping up decking or new concrete to find a leak.

I've found Farm and Ranch stores to be the best source for pool chemicals lately... MA gallons for $5.49, 10% LC for $3.99!:)

Wait - you're not getting paid? Who is paying me? Oh - my employer... Shhhh...

Hold on for more advice.

Why only 1,600 gallons? If not draining more water, you should be doing a no-drain water exchange detailed in the Draining wiki. The problem with your method is that your new water is diluting your old water, not replacing it. We want to replace it, new water in, bad water out. 7ppm FC is...

The reason for the sock method is to avoid CYA caking into the filter grids, causing potentially slower dispersal through the water.

Post up a picture so we can identify the return style.

Just to be clear. You're referring to TA of 220ppm? Can you post a full set of results?

If I were replacing the deck, I'd replace the piping... PVC doesn't have infinite life, and who knows what shenanigans went on during install, repairs that have been made since, etc.

Ok now. Also not abnormal for an AGP cart filter to be a bit slow in clearing.

CC indicates that the SLAM is still necessary, and FC reduction shows that it's working. Keep on with it, but wise to raise CYA to 30. UV is not chlorines' friend.

Using muriatic acid, once pH rises to 8, target 7.0 using pool math. With high TA, it will change every day or so until you get closer to equilibrium and then needed acid additions will cease.

I immediately thought PVC conduit for a light or an electrical outlet?

Save your money and go without, just make sure the ebay unit has a good return policy in case it's a bust.

Feel free to make a post about the issue, with pictures and any test results you have...