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Quick question before I finish my final repair. Should I make the repair angled and just above the first repair? That puts it 17 inches underground. Those connection pieces are not glued to the main pipe yet. Or should I make it straight up and down, which makes it only 14 1/2 inches under...

I should be able to finish the repair this weekend. It is storming here now so I have to wait until that passes. Once I finish the second repair I plan to test the suction line just to see if it leaks. Then test with the Leak stick. Then I will move on to the returns which I will probably...

Yes, I can and will do that. I wanted to test the pressure to see if there are any leaks anywhere else. I can and will test at full pump speed and watch for leaks in my newly repaired section but just figured while I was at it I would test all of the returns.

Yes, I have the system on right now. I am returning the water to the hot tub and fountain only which spills over into the pool. It is not a long term solution but the water circulates good enough for now. I can test the return easy. I screw in my testing stick to the skimmer and then...

I think you should be able to see everything on this picture

I don't know about that. My pad is as follows: North Suction, South Suction, Main Drain, Side Suction, Fountain. So I don't think I can do both at once. Is a valve good enough to test the pressure or do I need to take off the valve and put a rubber bladder in there? I am not really sure how...

Ok, I dry fit my leak test stick. Probably doesnt need to be so big so I may cut down the middle parts a bit.

Ok, so I bought a ball valve and another T and a cap because I didn't want the hose plugging in to the top of the pipe, I wanted it on the side. I will dry fit it and take a pic tonight and post tomorrow and you can let me know if I got it right.

Oops, well I would be happy to post but I sheepishly reply that I don't really need to. I was plugging the lines last night after a long Memorial day and I have one plug that I missed in the corner. As I was sitting by my hole in the ground this morning wondering how this was possible my eye...

I plan to stick with water for now. Ok so what if I did suction connection T with pressure gauge, ball valve and the hose connection on top? Then I could just shut the ball valve and it would not test the hose.

I have two leaks in one place where the pool builder did a janky repair. On the suction line I was able to put a plug in the skimmer and close the valve at the pump. There was a small amount of water leaking but I was able to get that repair done and I think it will be fine. The other line...

I have a leak in both the return and suction side. I bought the house with the pool so I have no idea what happened here to necessitate this repair and they the lines are crossed like this. However, as you can see their repair has failed on both the suction AND the return side. My plan is...

Sorry, I am not well versed in all the terms as I am a computer guy. Let me tell you my plan as I see it from what you have said. I buy a 1.5 inches threaded pvc end piece I glue in a 3foot piece of 1.5 inch PVC pipe to the threaded piece and this will be the bit that will go into the...

yes, I meant it was dripping while I was doing the repair. I put a lot of glue on though and they were able to get fully seated and on all of them except the last two I was able to get a good twist to it when putting it on. How can I do a pressure test? If it turns out to be the suction line...

I have not actually been able to determine which is which. I think the one I just fixed is the return. I was thinking of putty the putty on just in case one of the seals didn't set very well. On one side there was some water dripping out and I am afraid it may not have sealed so great...

Hey guys, an update and a question. I replaced one of my leaking pipe sections. You can see what it looked like before. I have done 90's and was able to fully seat all the pipes. I am thinking about putting some plumbers putty on each of the joints. It may be overkill but I don't want to...

I have already found the leak, it is actually two small leaks. I have cut the concrete and dug it out and now just waiting for some good weather to fix it. Yes, it could be run off from the deck. I have a Pecan tree dropping its flowerings all over the place.

I have been running my pump less because of suction side leak. I added some phosphate remover and it cleared right up, then stormed again. I will just bump up the runtime and see if that does the trick. Thanks

My water was clear and then we had a storm come through. After the storm the water turned a little bit cloudy and has stayed that way for the last three days ( some more storms in that time too) My readings are CL : 9.5 PH: 7.8 TA: 120 CYA: 70 CH: 275 Salt: 2600 I purchased some salt and I am...

No, I did not do it, so you don't have to take it back. Ok, so I will cut it back to rigid, put the 90's on each end then make my U and have a friend help me and we can get it in fully seated then and the only thing we dont get is the twist, which should be ok as long as I get good primer and...

This is the problem, I had posted about it in another thread. I don't know if I want to patch a leaky joint only to have to dig it out again in a few years.

I have to repair a repair of a straight pipe. The last guys used 45 degree joins and flex pipe. I am going to use 90 and regular 2" pipe. Like the image below however, I am not sure how you get a good secure seating with a twist doing this. There will not be long enough pipe length for a...

Thanks Jim. I was just wondering if maybe a 90 once seated around with dirt and rock would be less likely to flex a bit and come loose again. However, It seems that water would flow a bit easier with a 45 but maybe not much easier. Also, they had this hole filled with old concrete chunks ...