To replace laterals or not: Pentair Triton II TR100

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geh

geh

Gold Supporter
Nov 28, 2020
269
New Orleans
Pool Size
15600
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I am in the middle of replacing my sand for the first time. I have all the sand cleaned out and removed the laterals for inspection. The laterals look fine, saving some staining on one, and a tiny amount of debris on the inside of each one. I have eight brand new laterals ready: I can install them or return them to the pool store. The filter was manufactured in 2018 and I think was installed in 2018 or 2019. If they look good should I just continue using them, or are they typically swapped out in the interest of precaution when you change the sand? They were $14.99 each at the pool store, totaling $112.92. Don't want to go cheap here, but don't want to drop that money unnecessarily.

Secondly, from a couple youtube videos I saw, both of them liked to use a silicon lube on the threads and the o-ring on the cap. Would a standard bicycle synthetic grease (silicon), such as Park Tools or Pedros be ok to use? A few pics to follow.IMG_1488.jpegIMG_1490.jpegIMG_1491.jpeg
 
geh said:
I am in the middle of replacing my sand for the first time. I have all the sand cleaned out and removed the laterals for inspection. The laterals look fine, saving some staining on one, and a tiny amount of debris on the inside of each one. I have eight brand new laterals ready: I can install them or return them to the pool store. The filter was manufactured in 2018 and I think was installed in 2018 or 2019. If they look good should I just continue using them, or are they typically swapped out in the interest of precaution when you change the sand? They were $14.99 each at the pool store, totaling $112.92. Don't want to go cheap here, but don't want to drop that money unnecessarily.

Secondly, from a couple youtube videos I saw, both of them liked to use a silicon lube on the threads and the o-ring on the cap. Would a standard bicycle synthetic grease (silicon), such as Park Tools or Pedros be ok to use? A few pics to follow.View attachment 638730View attachment 638731View attachment 638732
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No reason to change the laterals (or the sand) if they are fine.
 
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Bperry said:
No reason to change the laterals (or the sand) if they are fine.
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I was told sand should be replaced every four years or so. I already disposed of the old sand so new sand it shall be. Any thoughts on the synthetic grease I mentioned for the threads?
 
geh said:
I was told sand should be replaced every four years or so. I already disposed of the old sand so new sand it shall be. Any thoughts on the synthetic grease I mentioned for the threads?
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No reason to ever replace the sand. The first sand filter I installed in 1992 is still going strong. Sand was replaced in 1995 due to the tank having to be drained to replace a broken lateral. The customer wanted new sand so that's what they got.
If it was my filter, I would go ahead and use the new laterals just to be sure. They look good from the pictures, but the place I've seen most break is at the threads.
Good old Pedro's and Park Tools lubes (very familiar with both) are designed for use on metal parts. I would hesitate to use them on the plastics and rubber used for pool equipment. Magic Lube 2 is a much better/safer option, designed for pool use.
Don't overtighten the laterals into the hub or the stress will cause them to break. Fill the tank at least a few inches above them with water before adding sand to allow it to flow under and support the lateral to prevent breakage.
 
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Bperry said:
No reason to change the laterals (or the sand) if they are fine.
Click to expand...

1poolman1 said:
No reason to ever replace the sand. The first sand filter I installed in 1992 is still going strong. Sand was replaced in 1995 due to the tank having to be drained to replace a broken lateral. The customer wanted new sand so that's what they got.
If it was my filter, I would go ahead and use the new laterals just to be sure. They look good from the pictures, but the place I've seen most break is at the threads.
Good old Pedro's and Park Tools lubes (very familiar with both) are designed for use on metal parts. I would hesitate to use them on the plastics and rubber used for pool equipment. Magic Lube 2 is a much better/safer option, designed for pool use.
Don't overtighten the laterals into the hub or the stress will cause them to break. Fill the tank at least a few inches above them with water before adding sand to allow it to flow under and support the lateral to prevent breakage.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your replies. I guess I was misinformed about changing the sand. The motivation was to inspect the laterals as it seemed that maybe sand was coming through the return ports and scratching the plaster. Given the laterals seem fine, that apparently was not the case. I will replace the laterals since removing them might have stressed the plastic and the threads, and it doesn’t hurt to start with new ones for longevity, so I don’t have to go through this again. It’s also possible that the shop that installed the filter didn’t use pool grade sand. They are ethically dubious. I will get some Magic Lube 2 as well. Is it available at stores other than pool shops? And yes, the videos also pointed out to fill water above the laterals to disperse the sand evenly and prevent the sand from damaging the laterals.
 
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Another question while we are at it. My Pentair multiport valve was replaced about 6 years ago after it froze and the handle broke. The new one has been working fine, but now has some friction when I change positions. I have some Magic Lube now. Is there something I need to lube to maintain it, so it doesn't progress to completely stuck over time?
 
Also, after very close inspection, the laterals I took out seem completely fine. I decided to keep and re-use my current laterals, and I returned the replacement ones to the store.
 
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One other question: The TR-100 calls for 450 lbs. of pool sand. One of the videos, and the pool store, both said I needed 600 lbs., even while showing the pool store both the photo of the label on the filter, and the owner's manual. Why the discrepancy? Is there a particular visual level I am looking for, or will the sand become more compacted once it is running?
 
geh said:
Is there a particular visual level I am looking for
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The rule of thumb is the seam line for the rounded lid is about where the sand should be. If it doesn't have a seam at the vertical wall, then guesstimate.


Screenshot_20250418_125443_Chrome.jpg
 
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Bperry said:
If you put in extra, it’ll just come out when backwashing. The exact weight depends on the exact sand used. I used glass and the quantity was way off.
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Thanks. There is a seam and it looks like I am going to need that extra 150 lbs to reach it. That will cover the upper, horizontal PVC pipe. The seam is just above that.
 
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