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Maldravus

Well-known member
Mar 16, 2025
76
Austin, Texas
Pool Size
11282
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi all - wife and I are owners of a brand new 11,282 gallon fiberglass chlorine pool. We have a Hayward 120k heat pump but the rest of the equipment is standard stuff. I have been religious about taking a sample weekly to Leslie’s and adjusting with baking soda and dry acid. I just downloaded the Pool Math app but am struggling to understand how to load my recent test results. From what I have read so far - it seems I need to get a good test kit, likely the Taylor k-2006 kit. As a new owner (only been in the ground a few months) my biggest concerns are;

1) Consistently elevated levels of pH. Not terrible, but normally 7.9-8.1.
2) Calcium Hardness - Leslie’s tells me every trip that I do not need to be concerned about this since we have a fiberglass pool. I did a bit of my own research and found that extremely high hardness can be damaging to heat pumps. Ours is consistently low - usually around 135. Do I need to address this?
3) cya - having only owned the pool a few months I don’t have the experience yet to fully grasp how our trichlor tablets (from Doheneys) affect the cya. So far, it has been on a slow and steady rise from 0 to where it is at now, 44.
4) Chlorine is still a bit confusing to me. I am currently sitting at 1.19. I have seen some mention of liquid chlorine. Is there some reason I should be using that instead of the tablets in my auto chlorinator?

With all of this said the pool looks very gorgeous and clear. I have a Hayward QC robot which I use nearly every other day. I also have a Betta solar powered robotic skimmer that runs 24/7. I very much enjoy managing the chemicals and maintenance of my pool by myself. It is very calming for me to be outside manually scrubbing the safety ledge or sides of the pool. I have a very flexible schedule and want the pool to be in the best shape possible. I am willing to put in as much time as needed for daily tasks. I look forward to learning more from this site.

Take care!
 
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mknauss said:
Understood. Tablets are not a sustainable method of chlorinating pool water. So it is not an option.
Click to expand...
It appears I may be totally out of the loop here then. What is the purpose of pool companies installing tablet feeders? Is the idea to supplement the tablets with shock and or liquid chlorine to keep cya levels in check?
 
Welcome to TFP!!!

As Marty indicated:
  1. You need your own test kit. Link-->Test Kits Compared
  2. Tablets add CYA. When CYA gets above about 60, it becomes incredibly difficult to maintain enough FC for your CYA...then you have to drain water and replace to lower CYA. That is why it is not sustainable. You should always follow this when you are chlorinating. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Maldravus said:
1) Consistently elevated levels of pH. Not terrible, but normally 7.9-8.1.
Click to expand...
Rising pH is due to high TA. When you get your test kit, post results and we can work on it.
Maldravus said:
2) Calcium Hardness - Leslie’s tells me every trip that I do not need to be concerned about this since we have a fiberglass pool. I did a bit of my own research and found that extremely high hardness can be damaging to heat pumps. Ours is consistently low - usually around 135. Do I need to address this?
Click to expand...
If you do not have a tile line, then I wouldn't worry about CH.
Maldravus said:
3) cya - having only owned the pool a few months I don’t have the experience yet to fully grasp how our trichlor tablets (from Doheneys) affect the cya. So far, it has been on a slow and steady rise from 0 to where it is at now, 44.
Click to expand...
It will continue to rise. See #2 above. Pucks are not sustainable, as Marty indicated. I certainly would convert to liquid chlorine at or before your CYA gets to 60. However, I would not trust the pool store testing on CYA. Get the kit and post results, we'll go from there.
Maldravus said:
4) Chlorine is still a bit confusing to me. I am currently sitting at 1.19. I have seen some mention of liquid chlorine. Is there some reason I should be using that instead of the tablets in my auto chlorinator?
Click to expand...
See above on CYA levels and link to FC CYA relationship.
 
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PoolStored said:
Welcome to TFP!!!

As Marty indicated:
  1. You need your own test kit. Link-->Test Kits Compared
  2. Tablets add CYA. When CYA gets above about 60, it becomes incredibly difficult to maintain enough FC for your CYA...then you have to drain water and replace to lower CYA. That is why it is not sustainable. You should always follow this when you are chlorinating. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Rising pH is due to high TA. When you get your test kit, post results and we can work on it.

If you do not have a tile line, then I wouldn't worry about CH.

It will continue to rise. See #2 above. Pucks are not sustainable, as Marty indicated. I certainly would convert to liquid chlorine at or before your CYA gets to 60. However, I would not trust the pool store testing on CYA. Get the kit and post results, we'll go from there.

See above on CYA levels and link to FC CYA relationship.
Click to expand...
This all makes sense and tracks with the research I’ve done thus far. It just confuses me because the pool companies will not tell you this info. They effectively sell them as a set it and forget it type deal with tablets. I unfortunately ran out and bought a 50lb bucket of them so I’m wondering if I can use them and supplement with shock or liquid chlorine until they run out? Or should I just consider hard swapping to liquid chlorine now? I will order the test kit today and post my first results.
 
Maldravus said:
wife and I are owners of a brand new 11,282 gallon fiberglass chlorine pool
Click to expand...
Where are you in Texas?

Maldravus said:
I have been religious about taking a sample weekly to Leslie’s
Click to expand...
It's best to stay out of the pool store. A proper test kit is an order of magnitude better than the "testing" they provide.

Maldravus said:
adjusting with baking soda and dry acid.
Click to expand...
Once you're off tablets, you should never need to add baking soda under normal circumstances. Use muriatic acid for pH control instead of dry acid.

Maldravus said:
it seems I need to get a good test kit, likely the Taylor k-2006 kit.
Click to expand...
I would recommend a TF-Pro or TF-Pro Salt (if you're planning on getting a saltwater chlorine generator (SWCG)).

tftestkits.net

TF-Pro Salt

tftestkits.net tftestkits.net

Maldravus said:
Is there some reason I should be using that instead of the tablets in my auto chlorinator?
Click to expand...
There are only two long-term sustainable chlorination methods: liquid chlorine or SWCG. A SWCG is highly recommended, especially for our Texas climate. It's by far the easiest, cheapest, and most convenient way to chlorinate.

Maldravus said:
I very much enjoy managing the chemicals and maintenance of my pool by myself.
Click to expand...
Great! You've come to the right place.

Maldravus said:
It is very calming for me to be outside manually scrubbing the safety ledge or sides of the pool.
Click to expand...
Once you get your chemistry under control, you won't be doing much scrubbing, especially since you have a robot.

Maldravus said:
I am willing to put in as much time as needed for daily tasks.
Click to expand...
With TFPC methods, very little time and effort is needed on a daily basis. You can spend your time enjoying your pool instead.

Maldravus said:
What is the purpose of pool companies installing tablet feeders?
Click to expand...
They're a bad idea, especially with a heater or heat pump.

Maldravus said:
It just confuses me because the pool companies will not tell you this info.
Click to expand...
They don't know or don't care.

Maldravus said:
I unfortunately ran out and bought a 50lb bucket of them so I’m wondering if I can use them and supplement with shock or liquid chlorine until they run out?
Click to expand...
You can use them judiciously if you understand their effects.

Start here:

Pool School

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Welcome and looks like everyone has you covered.

Just a note on your 50lb bucket of tabs, they will not go bad and tabs are okay to use in TFP (sometimes) so no need to get rid of them. People get in trouble blindly using tabs as their sole source of chlorine and allowing their CYA to get way too high. You will have plenty of opportunities to use them over the next few years, including boosting your CYA when needed and when on vacation and not able to add liquid chlorine on a regular basis. My CYA is a bit low so I have 3 tabs in a floating dispenser in my pool currently.
 
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Maldravus said:
I very much enjoy managing the chemicals and maintenance of my pool by myself. It is very calming for me to be outside manually scrubbing the safety ledge or sides of the pool. I have a very flexible schedule and want the pool to be in the best shape possible. I am willing to put in as much time as needed for daily tasks. I look forward to learning more from this site.
Click to expand...
You are the ideal new member. Positive attitude, willing to learn, enjoy doing pool chores, asking all the right questions.
With the Pool Math app, suggest you purchase the premium version for $8, if you have not done so. It will track and record all pool test data and costs of pool supplies. Also, go to settings and activate CSI calculations. That will come in handy with all your test data.

I am going on over 6 years using TFP methodology and I switched to liquid chlorine even prior to that to stop increasing CYA. Then I found TFP. . I still have several pucks from that old chlorine bucket. So as you been advised, save the pucks, they won’t go bad and you will use them for specific needs once you get a full grasp of TFP.

In time, you may even see the light and move to a saltwater chlorine generator that really reduces the daily pool chores. but Let’s take one step at a time.

PS - update your location with a City along with the State as that helps to get more localized help if needed.
 
Thanks all! I have ordered a Taylor k-2006 for now. Once it arrives, I will research how to test and then post results.
Good to know I can still use the pucks sparingly provided I keep an eye on my CYA, they were not cheap.
Also slightly confused on the whole SWCG suggestion - these are used in non-saltwater pools? I will research.
 
Maldravus said:
Also slightly confused on the whole SWCG suggestion - these are used in non-saltwater pools? I will research.
Click to expand...
I did not mean to get you off track. Focus on the test kit and use of LC now if that makes you comfortable.

It is a saltwater pool that uses a SWCG. If you plan to install one in the future then you reduce your pool chores by not having to purchase LC, lug the jugs, pour in every day or so, etc, The SWCG creates chlorine by converting salt. You have to add salt to the pool water.
Some people install a SWCG from the beginning. Some jump from pucks directly to SWCG and some go from pucks to LC then to SWCG. Some just stay using LC. To each his own. Either the use of LC or that of a SWCG will work using the TFP methodology.
 
HermanTX said:
I did not mean to get you off track. Focus on the test kit and use of LC now if that makes you comfortable.

It is a saltwater pool that uses a SWCG. If you plan to install one in the future then you reduce your pool chores by not having to purchase LC, lug the jugs, pour in every day or so, etc, The SWCG creates chlorine by converting salt. You have to add salt to the pool water.
Some people install a SWCG from the beginning. Some jump from pucks directly to SWCG and some go from pucks to LC then to SWCG. Some just stay using LC. To each his own. Either the use of LC or that of a SWCG will work using the TFP methodology.
Click to expand...
Yes, I realized exactly what it was shortly after I posted. I will keep this in mind. Wish I had done a bit more research up front. We steered clear of a saltwater setup from the start as we were told it would negatively affect patio furniture and our limestone. For now I will get a grasp on the TFP methods, chemicals, and move from pucks to LC.
 
Maldravus said:
Is this really necessary or can you just swirl by hand?
Click to expand...
Not necessary, but it makes testing much easier, and more accurate and repeatable. Lots of us here :love: them.

My brother who had a pool for 30 years and I did a test back to back on same sample. Him swirl and me with speed stir. His results were 1 FC higher because the swirl did not swirl as good as speed stir.
 
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I would probably fight someone for my SpeedStir. LOL....First pool was last summer. Went about two weeks before I received my testkit/SpeedStir. Such a small thing but makes the process so much easier.
 
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I started with one when i got my first real test kit. The first time I used it I understood why it was one of the better decisions I'd ever made.

If it was to break i wouldn't even finish the test manually. I'd order another on the spot then decide if the test could wait 48 hours.
 
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