I recently noticed my pool heater had an IF error code. I tested the ignitor and it was bad. I replaced the ignitor a week later when part arrived. Heater off for the week. Now, I can hear it clicking which I assume is ignitor sparking but it still won't fire. There is no more error codes. I do not smell any gas so maybe gas not getting to ignitor? I'm wondering what my next step should be? The gas is on and I already cleaned the burner orifices. Thanks in advance.
Hayward H300 Heater Help!
- Thread starter DiggerTO
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Your ignitor is a "hot surface" one, there is no clicking (spark) involved.
If the clicking is continuous, check for voltage at the gas valve, that is the only "loud" click you should hear. There should be 24V +/- at the terminals of the valve shortly after the ignition sequence starts and the ignitor is glowing a bright yellow/orange. Usually only one click is heard as the valve opens.
Are you positive that any external gas cock is open? I wish I could count the number of times I've had to charge for a service call only to find that external valve off because someone did some service to the heater and forgot to turn it on, and that was after I asked the customer to check. If it is open, it would be good to use a manometer to check that you actually have gas flow through the valve when you hear the click it makes.
I am not sure if ignitor is hot surface. Attached is a pic of old one. I wish I could attach short vid of the sound. Basically a repetitive clicking and then a louder click but no fire up. I double checked gas is turned on gas valve is set to on. I am not getting any error codes since replacing ignitor. I will see if I can do the voltage check. Thanks.
Attachments
Yup, ya got me. You have a "direct spark" ignition. At some point in the ignition sequence, usually right as it starts, you should hear a louder click of the main valve opening (if you put your finger on the valve you can feel it) and sending gas to the burners. If you don't smell gas at some point the main valve may not be opening. Is there another gas cock at the meter? Some heaters had two, one at the meter and one at the heater.
That's one of the problems with diagnosing a Hayward heater. The picture below is also of an ignitor (hot surface) for a Hayward H series heater.
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Despite numerous gailed attempts through firing sequence, I smell no gas. Could I be so lucky to have both an ignitor issue, which I fixed, and a gas valve issue at the same time?? The clicking noise I thought was the spark on the ignitor arcing across the ignitor.
Do you ever hear/feel the gas valve opening, a louder metallic click, as the heater starts the ignition sequence. It happens virtually simultaneously with the ignitor clicking. Other wise gas would build up in the firebox and there would be explosive ignition.
Seen it, you don't want to. First time it literally blew the door off the heater. Had just been to heater school a few weeks earlier and learned to never stand in front of a heater as it lights. That was a much more prevalent issue with standing-pilot heaters.
Yes, I put my hand on the valve as it's trying to fire and I can feel it vibrate and make a louder clank but no light, no gas smell.
I think I have checked voltage at the gas valve and it is low. I connected my meter to the Orange wire disconnected from the gas valve. The starting sequence initiated and the ticking still occurred but much quieter. The meter only showed about 2.0.
I also tested resistance at the gas valve and the reading was 20 ohms which I think may be low for a gas valve...hmm
I redid the voltage test at the gas valve and it did quickly jump to 27 (not 24) and then quickly back down. So, I think gas valve is bad
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swamprat69
Well-known member
You said voltage at the gas valve very briefly showed 27V and quickly dropped down. If you check voltage at the 2 wires connected to the gas valve when they are disconnected from the gas valve during the heating sequence do you get a reading of 27V for the time listed on the Fenwal ignition module as either "ignition" or "trial for ignition"? If so, it is probable that at least one of the gas valve solenoids is stuck in the closed position.
I performed the test with the wires disconnected. The 27V showed up very quickly - not more than a second I would think. I'm not sure what the time should be. I wish there was a way to unstick this solenoid? Tapping with a
didn't help. I can't afford a new valve right now which seems to be $700 CDN which is crazy. Heater is old so probably not even worth it.Sadly, unless the voltage is at the valve for at least 3 seconds, according to Hayward Tech Support, that means at least one of the control boards is bad. Its not a problem with the valve, "yet." I always tell a customer on who's heater I am working, " I've found the first problem. Hopefully the only one." On several occasion's I have had what I call "cascading" issues. Fix one and the next part in line goes bad. Older heaters can have that problem.I performed the test with the wires disconnected. The 27V showed up very quickly - not more than a second I would think. I'm not sure what the time should be. I wish there was a way to unstick this solenoid? Tapping with a
Wow...so maybe I do have a board issue. I only see one. Pic above. Now let me see what that would cost relative to a gas valve and do I dare fix that first. Thanks so much for your support.
Look at R2 and R4?, bottom of picture. Board looks burned at those resistors.Wow...so maybe I do have a board issue. I only see one. Pic above. Now let me see what that would cost relative to a gas valve and do I dare fix that first. Thanks so much for your support.
I did notice that as well. The resistors themselves are not obviously damaged but I'm going to look into any repair options available as I can't find this board anywhere. The control panel assembly is HAXCPA3301 which I assume includes the board. I'm not sure how feasible repair is but will investigate.