I have used this forum for the last 6 years since.I bought my house, which came with a pool. I have learned to do mostly everything by reading the forum, and this year, I am finally going to try to close it. I read through the various recommended posts relating to closing a pool, and I believe I have a pretty good understanding of how to go about doing it. I purchased a Cyclone that I intend to use to blow out the lines. I have a couple of questions regarding sequence and method of blowing out the lines. I made a PVC adapter to connect to the union that holds in the SWG. In other words, I intend to remove the SWG, and connect the adapter to each union that connects to either side of the SWG and blow out the return side first followed by the suction side. I have attached a photo of the adapter. I have also attached photos of the equipment pad showing my pipes and valves and a photograph of the pool where I labeled the returns (5 in pool returns + 1 fountain), 2 main drains, and skimmer. My equipment pad has 5 valves (main drain, skimmer, middle return, other returns, and fountain). As mentioned, I intend on blowing out the returns first. My question is, should I leave all 3 of those valves open when blowing those out (middle return, other returns, fountain) or should I close 2 valves and only do 1 at a time? Does it really make a difference with the Cyclone or is there enough volume for it to handle all 3 being open? My thought was if I left all 3 open, I would not have to worry about pressure buildup between the time I plug the final return on each valve and the time I shut off the Cyclone (though I did reach that the Cyclone does not build up enough pressure to cause any damage). After plugging the returns, I will shut off all the return valves and connect to the suction side by the SWG union, which would essentially blow water back through the heater, through the filter and into the skimmer/main drains. Will the Cyclone have any issue pushing water through that path? I intend to blow the skimmer out first (I will be lowering the water below the skimmer first). Should I close the main drain valve to blow out the skimmer or keep both valves open, put a gizzmo on skimmer when it blows out, and wait for air bubbles through the main drains and then air lock by closing the main drain valve and then also close the skimmer valve? Thanks for your help.
Pool Closing for First Time
- Thread starter swaggy88
- Start date
- Jun 1, 2018
- 15,081
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
- Jun 24, 2021
- 12,928
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I would not blow "backward" through the heater/filter. Might be ok, as it is cartridge..@newdude would know.
Blow from the salt cell location is fine for returns.
Blow from the pump for the MD/Skimmers if you can.
Blow out each return isolated.
Blow out the skimmer isolated.
Blow out the MD isolated.
I found that it works best when you clear each line at a time. Takes less time and is more thorough.
Blow from the salt cell location is fine for returns.
Blow from the pump for the MD/Skimmers if you can.
Blow out each return isolated.
Blow out the skimmer isolated.
Blow out the MD isolated.
I found that it works best when you clear each line at a time. Takes less time and is more thorough.
Thanks for the info. I will plan to blow out from each individual valve. I am interested to see what newdude has to say regarding whether it is okay to blow backward from the swg connection point. If not, I will need to figure out a way to connect into the suction side to blow out from there. I did not think it would be an issue because I know people blow the returns out from the pump, which would run air through the filter/heater, but I see what you're saying as far as blowing backwards.
We know backwards flow destroys them when done with water, I don't think the cyclone has enough psi to damage them, but why risk it ? The carts need to be pulled to dry them anyway. So pull them, blow the system and put the carts back a week later when they're good and dry.
+1 to all poolstore's thoughts.
Remember the drain line needs to be closed under pressure in order to air lock it. You won't harm anything if it takes a min to shut down the cyclone.
+1 to all poolstore's thoughts.
Remember the drain line needs to be closed under pressure in order to air lock it. You won't harm anything if it takes a min to shut down the cyclone.
Thanks. Just so I'm clear, you're saying it's okay to blow the suction side from the swg connection as long as I pull the cartridges out first?
I'd recommend something else here.
#1) drain the filter by opening the bottom drain and also remove the cartridges and close the filter back without cartridges.
#2) drain the heater by the manifold where there's a drain plug.
#3) open up both unions on the pump and move pump aside. Also remove pressure side of pump pipe from the filter and put aside, (filter inlet)
#4) put back the heater drain plug and the filter drain plug.
To blow the pressure side of the system blow through the inlet side of the filter and clear all three lines separately going back and forth several times.
To blow suction side blow through pump inlet side and airlock the main drain first and then blow out the skimmer/skimmers.
When done with clearing lines plug the returns and some people add antifreeze to the return lines at the pool wall via a funnel and vinyl hose combo and then plug.
For the skimmers antifreeze and a plug or skimmer gizmo. If using plug the a empty plastic bottle with some gravel about half full tightly closed in skimmer sump. I fill the skimmer mouth with as many pool noodles to protrude into the pool for ice expansion .
#1) drain the filter by opening the bottom drain and also remove the cartridges and close the filter back without cartridges.
#2) drain the heater by the manifold where there's a drain plug.
#3) open up both unions on the pump and move pump aside. Also remove pressure side of pump pipe from the filter and put aside, (filter inlet)
#4) put back the heater drain plug and the filter drain plug.
To blow the pressure side of the system blow through the inlet side of the filter and clear all three lines separately going back and forth several times.
To blow suction side blow through pump inlet side and airlock the main drain first and then blow out the skimmer/skimmers.
When done with clearing lines plug the returns and some people add antifreeze to the return lines at the pool wall via a funnel and vinyl hose combo and then plug.
For the skimmers antifreeze and a plug or skimmer gizmo. If using plug the a empty plastic bottle with some gravel about half full tightly closed in skimmer sump. I fill the skimmer mouth with as many pool noodles to protrude into the pool for ice expansion .
Yes. There are 100 ways to skin this cat.
Pull the SWG, filter, pump or heater to blow both halves.
or blow from the skimmers straight through and plug lines one at a time or cycle the valves to get each leg empty.
The filters if nothing else will slow down airflow blown from either direction so pull them no matter what.
I pull the pump and SWG and go right to the pipes. The filter goes in the shed once the carts dry and the pump and SWG go in my basement. They can handle the elements. That's fine and dandy. But why leave electronics in a snow drift for a couple weeks when it's so east to not ? Intelliflo's are up to $2500 these days and IC60s are $1800. Mine are going to be nice and cozy for the winter Itellyouwhut.
Closing with shop vac.
Today was the day for closing and it went great with a 6HP shop vac. I hooked my blower up for fun after, and there really wasn't much left but some spray. Anywho I wanted to do a write up for all the folks wondering if they could save a chunk of change and tackle their own closing...
www.troublefreepool.com
Is there a specific reason you recommend blowing the main drain line before skimmer line or is that just preference? How much antifreeze do you recommend pouring into the skimmer?
Thanks for you help. I may do a test run with the blower to make sure it all works smoothly.Yes. There are 100 ways to skin this cat.
Pull the SWG, filter, pump or heater to blow both halves.
or blow from the skimmers straight through and plug lines one at a time or cycle the valves to get each leg empty.
The filters if nothing else will slow down airflow blown from either direction so pull them no matter what.
I pull the pump and SWG and go right to the pipes. The filter goes in the shed once the carts dry and the pump and SWG go in my basement. They can handle the elements. That's fine and dandy. But why leave electronics in a snow drift for a couple weeks when it's so east to not ? Intelliflo's are up to $2500 these days and IC60s are $1800. Mine are going to be nice and cozy for the winter Itellyouwhut.
Closing with shop vac.
Today was the day for closing and it went great with a 6HP shop vac. I hooked my blower up for fun after, and there really wasn't much left but some spray. Anywho I wanted to do a write up for all the folks wondering if they could save a chunk of change and tackle their own closing...
Preference. All legs need to be blown and sealed and whether you go left to right or right to left doesn't matter.
*when the equipment is above the pool water at least.
I do a gallon per pipe. I use a bendy funnel to get it in the horizontal pipes.
It takes a couple tries to know you prefer it a certain way. Experiment with different blow spots or order and find your groove. The first couple of years you'll tweak this or that. After that, it's a joke.
So I did a test run and everything worked as expected. I pulled the filters first then ran the cyclone from the swg connection to blow out the suction side. However, I have 2 main drains, and the one in the shallow end blew air/water to the surface, but the one in the deep end did not appear to blow and air/water. I left the cyclone on for about 3 minutes. Is that normal, and can I assume that when I air lock during my actual closing that the main drain pipes are sufficiently blown out?Preference. All legs need to be blown and sealed and whether you go left to right or right to left doesn't matter.
*when the equipment is above the pool water at least.
I do a gallon per pipe. I use a bendy funnel to get it in the horizontal pipes.
It takes a couple tries to know you prefer it a certain way. Experiment with different blow spots or order and find your groove. The first couple of years you'll tweak this or that. After that, it's a joke.
Do they share a feed pipe ? If so air will push to the higher of the two then leave with the path of least resistance. At that point when you airlock at the pad, the water level in the deeper drain leg is at the height of the shallow one and below the frost line.
At the pad, there is only one pipe/valve for both main drains if that's what you mean by sharing a feed pipe.
Ok so that pipe likely goes under the pool and splits to the two in T fashion.
You can't blow the lower drain leg, but you don't need to as it's far enough down.
You can't blow the lower drain leg, but you don't need to as it's far enough down.