New Tub water with perfect chemistry is cloudy??!

caitym

Member
Apr 10, 2024
16
Auburn, Ca
I just refilled the tub and cleaned it well about 2 weeks ago. I also replaced the filter. I balanced the chemistry and water was perfect. My kids got in the tub a few nights ago and I checked the chemistry the next day to make adjustments. PH was 7.2, TA 50, FC .5, CH 100. I made an adjustment to the CH and then shocked with dichlor. It’s been two days and still cloudy, but chemistry is good. What gives? I’ve never had cloudy water like this with this new of water. I’m wondering if something is up with the new filter or ??
 
I just refilled the tub and cleaned it well about 2 weeks ago. I also replaced the filter. I balanced the chemistry and water was perfect. My kids got in the tub a few nights ago and I checked the chemistry the next day to make adjustments. PH was 7.2, TA 50, FC .5, CH 100. I made an adjustment to the CH and then shocked with dichlor. It’s been two days and still cloudy, but chemistry is good. What gives? I’ve never had cloudy water like this with this new of water. I’m wondering if something is up with the new filter or ??
FC is 0.5? That may be why its cloudy. Whats the CYA?
 
Sounds like the FC got too low. Even though you tried to bring it up, it may still be struggling. What is you most current FC and CYA readings as of today?
FC- 0, CYA 60
We use the nature2 mineral pack in the gate made by Sundance. So we usually just use non-chlorinated shock after usage and I shock 1-2x a week depending on bather load. It’s worked before and now so weird with the cloudiness.
 
While the silver in mineral packs provides some sanitation in a hot tub, it is slow compared to chlorine and takes time to build up in new water to a point where it is effective. As such, your water is just an unsanitary soup right now with no chlorine. Nothing weird about it.

While the CDC is ok with using silver and MPS in a residential hot tub, that's not how TFP goes about it. To maintain it properly would require measuring the silver content and oxidation potential of the water, neither of which is done with these systems. Maintaining an appropriate level of a halide sanitizer (chlorine or bromine) is safe, easy to measure, and far more effective at killing the nasty things that thrive in the hot water of a hot tub than anything else.
 
FC- 0, CYA 60
We use the nature2 mineral pack in the gate made by Sundance. So we usually just use non-chlorinated shock after usage and I shock 1-2x a week depending on bather load. It’s worked before and now so weird with the cloudiness.
Thats why TFP doesnt advocate the use of those systems. They dont work. You have been lucky to not have problems until now.
 
I’m new to this and won’t use them again. With my current reading of no chlorine and cya of 60, what would you add? Liquid bleach?
Loquid chlorine (plain bleach). Its very hard to find plain bleach anymore so the better advice is chlorinating liquid from walmart, home depot, pool store, etc).

But youll need a test kit to measure that stuff and TFP only recommends two of them and their kinda expensive for just a spa but if you can swing it, its worth it.
 

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