Recent content by bobloblaw42

A dash of DE after every backwash will keep it that way. ;)

The SWG % is hard to determine without some FC readings over time. Generally you would want to know / dial in your CYA level and then target FC based on that. It's worth the use of reagents to know where you are even though you just turned on the SWG. And if you are at or near zero, its...

Nope. We test for suitable water balance and sanitize with chlorine. If you are able to hold chlorine and the water looks clear and free of algae, no need to SLAM.

If the pool is clear, sounds like you just need to test your CYA and FC. Other tests seem reasonable. You could mess around with bringing TA down but pH seems fine for a first test of the year. Congrats on what may end up being a very easy opening!

Seeking only clarity and uniformity of approach for those that embrace and evangelize TFP methodology, I present this comment....... borates are listed under recommended pool chemicals and the word "Optional" is not listed within its paragraph. It even includes suggested websites to acquire...

Post your test results from your TF Pro Salt Test kit and a description of the water (clear, cloudy, green) and you'll get whatever advice you need. FC: CC: pH: TA: CH: CYA: SALT:

Interesting, its in the pH window but not the effects of adding window. And so as not to lead future readers astray... As a working concept, if you can buy 15% acid for 8 dollars or 30% acid for 10 dollars, you'd be better off buying the 30% acid.

Baume is another version of concentration fanciness you don't need to worry about - you have the info you need which is the 34.6%. If you add acid based on 31.45% acid (strongest in pool math), would suggest under dosing until you get a feel for how effective it is / run out. As for buying new...

TA test stops when the color stops changing. At 6 drops, any more red than at 5? If no, TA=50. If yes, then keep going until another drop results in no more color change. Ignore the last drop that didn't result in a further color change. Regardless, at levels 40-60, don't worry about TA...

Might be mustard algae double FC step grafted onto SLAM......

70 is a perfectly fine CYA level.

Is the volume for your pH test 44ml or thereabouts? If so, R0004 is the correct reagent. If its something much lower, then R0014 would be the correct reagent.

I'd trust the FAS DPD test over the color match test. Your description of the test steps for FAS DPD appears correct. The precision of the color match test is far less than the FAS DPD. Sounds like your on the right path with reducing SWG output for this time of year to get back closer to...

You'll effectively be a LC pool until Monday so you might want to keep your CYA around 40 for the weekend. NY in May shouldn't be intense sunlight all day and you'll end up needing to put a lot of bleach in should you reach 70 CYA. FC target for LC is different than SWG so here's that chart...