Security Cameras

Does adding visual security (cameras) say to would be thieves “stay away, where watching” or “we’ve now got stuff worth stealing”?
Residential "DIY" security is for honest-ish people, not thieves. For bunglers, not burglers. If someone wants your stuff bad enough, they're going to take it. If they just want somebody's stuff, they'll seek the easiest, least risky source. Security cams make your house slightly more risky than houses without 'em.
 
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Residential "DIY" security is for honest-ish people, not thieves. For bunglers, not burglers. If someone wants your stuff bad enough, they're going to take it. If they just want somebody's stuff, they'll seek the easiest, least risky source. Security cams make your house slightly more risky than houses without 'em.

somebody said put a pair of muddy hunting boots by the door and a NRA sticker on the window :)
 
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Residential "DIY" security is for honest-ish people, not thieves. For bunglers, not burglers.
Just like when I put a lock on the hood of my car in my teenage years. I had some fancy equipment under the hood, so I constructed my own lock system so no one could just pop the hood. In my mind - it kept honest people honest! And also stopped drunk guys walking by from trying be macho!!!!!
 
Just like when I put a lock on the hood of my car in my teenage years. I had some fancy equipment under the hood, so I constructed my own lock system so no one could just pop the hood. In my mind - it kept honest people honest! And also stopped drunk guys walking by from trying be macho!!!!!
Maybe just me but when I was into “alleged” street racing years ago people didn’t seem to steal as much as they do now.
 
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Is their really such a thing a an honest criminal? Kids taking cookies from the cookie jar are excluded.

A few years back after my brother had his locked Harley stolen from his locked garage I told hm to get a dog. He didn’t want a dog. I told him to buy his neighbour a dog.
 
Interesting, I got the blink cameras, which is the cheaper of the 2 Amazon owned security cameras and the little brother to ring. Mine pulls up in ~ 2 seconds and also will notify about the same time. Ring seems to have much higher quality pictures, so maybe that is the tradeoff.
 
Residential "DIY" security is for honest-ish people, not thieves. For bunglers, not burglers. If someone wants your stuff bad enough, they're going to take it. If they just want somebody's stuff, they'll seek the easiest, least risky source. Security cams make your house slightly more risky than houses without 'em.
Yep. I figure I spent an afternoon and $300 to keep my stuff "safe" by being slightly harder to steal.

I also am the poor guy on the street, like not even close. Lots of nicer stuff in the other houses, and 2 of the houses on my street are active athletes who play for west coast teams and are on the road for weeks/months at a time. Hopefully the criminals see them as a much easier targets, but criminals do not always follow logic.
 
Yep. I figure I spent an afternoon and $300 to keep my stuff "safe" by being slightly harder to steal.

I also am the poor guy on the street, like not even close. Lots of nicer stuff in the other houses, and 2 of the houses on my street are active athletes who play for west coast teams and are on the road for weeks/months at a time. Hopefully the criminals see them as a much easier targets, but criminals do not always follow logic.
1000% true " but criminals do not always follow logic "
Maybe after the fact " well maybe it wasn't worth that pool cleaner I sold for $300 to spend a year in jail over"
 
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The thing that bugs me about our Ring doorbell and cameras is how slow they are to capture the Wifi when yiou want to respond to the bell. Is that the Ring or is that my Wifi?

Maddie :flower:

That is the Ring doorbell. The Ring Doorbell Pro that connects using a Cat5 POE cable and not Wifi is much faster.
 
The Ring Doorbell Pro that connects using a Cat5 POE cable and not Wifi is much faster.
Just curious. How do you get a Cat5 cable to your doorbell? My electrical wires are not in a conduit so do you have to drop down a cable from the attic? Not even sure I have access to that that based on how my roof design.
 
Just curious. How do you get a Cat5 cable to your doorbell? My electrical wires are not in a conduit so do you have to drop down a cable from the attic? Not even sure I have access to that that based on how my roof design.

I installed the Cat5 at the front doorbell location while renovating the house and had the walls open.
 
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Yep. I figure I spent an afternoon and $300 to keep my stuff "safe" by being slightly harder to steal.

I also am the poor guy on the street, like not even close. Lots of nicer stuff in the other houses, and 2 of the houses on my street are active athletes who play for west coast teams and are on the road for weeks/months at a time. Hopefully the criminals see them as a much easier targets, but criminals do not always follow logic.
This was my thought where we used to live - our neighbors had the same 4 wheeler, same riding lawnmower etc only they left all their stuff outside in plain view so I figured they were a much easier target than us .
 
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Just curious. How do you get a Cat5 cable to your doorbell? My electrical wires are not in a conduit so do you have to drop down a cable from the attic? Not even sure I have access to that that based on how my roof design.
Perseverance! I've spent days in my attic running stuff. First for ethernet. Then a door bell. Then lighting. Then speaker wires. The HD video wires for TV. Then the soft-water line for my pool's auto-filler. Then more lighting. Then more ethernet. The second time for the POE cams. Luckily I have blown in insulation (NOT fiberglass), and my ridge is high enough that I can walk down the center. Otherwise I wouldn't have done some or most of that. Or whined about it more...

Getting to the inside of the walls varies. On the ends, where the roof doesn't slope down, it's easy. The other sides mean crawling on your belly through the insulation. One of my small claims cases was over missing insulation, which in this case worked in my favor, since half the insulation in my attic wasn't in my way!

So you get to the top plate (two horizontal 2x4s sandwiched together) of whatever wall you need to get into, and drill a 1/2" or 3/4" hole through both 2x4s. If your walls are not insulated, you tie a 20p nail to 10' of strong line and tie the other end to the wire you're running. You drop the nail down the hole with all the line and the first foot or two of wire. You leave 8' or so of wire stretched out in the attic, no loops or kinks, and then crawl back out. From the inside of the house you saw open a 6" x 6" square of sheetrock and stick your hand in there and feel around for the line. Then pull it and the wire down. If you have wall insulation (I do, and it's fiberglass!), it's so much more fun. You use a fish tape instead of the line. You can try taping the wire to the tape, and shoving that down the hole, or just the tape (which ultimately is easier). Back inside you hunt around for the tape, tie a string to that, go back into the attic and pull the tape out of the drilled hole and then tie the string to your wire, then back inside and pull that down. You tape up the string to the wire to make a nice smooth shape, so it won't catch your insulation on the way down and pull it out of place.

Once you get the wire in hand inside, then you drill through the outer wall (you cut your sheetrock square right behind where you want your cam), then connect it up. Patch the sheetrock (I have a trick for that, too, that makes it relatively painless), and then paint the wall corner to corner (or just the patch if your paint matches well).

If you're trying to come down through a bay next to a door (like where a doorbell might be), that can be tricky, because they typically frame one or two horizontal 2x4s next to doors for strength, which serve as blocks to your wire pathways. So you have to cut more sheetrock holes, one at every block, and drill through those and work the wire down through the blocks, one by one. It a few more sheetrock patches, oh well. You cut the holes carefully and use the cut out sheetrock as the patch, so you don't even have to buy any sheetrock. You're going to patch and blend and paint anyway, so a few more holes is no big deal.

Yah, do that 15-30 times, by yourself, then call me! Of course, a helper makes a huge difference, but it's possible to do by yourself. I wore a path through my attic insulation! I tried to rake it (literally) back into place as best I could, with some success. I ended up winning that small claims case after I was all done running everything, and had a contractor blow in a new layer, nice and neat.

Interior walls are easier because they don't have any insulation in them, and are generally easier to work over in the attic. You can usually figure out where you are in the attic, by orienting yourself with can lighting, furnace ducts, plumbing vents, etc. Then you move the insulation around and you'll see the sheetrock and the top plates of all the walls. If that proves to be to difficult, before you go up, you drill a very small hole in the ceiling and shove a wire or coat hanger through it, far enough up to penetrate the insulation, so when back in the attic you have a tell tale to look for. Then later fill the little hole with some spackle and some times you don't even have to paint those.

One of those headlamp thingies is mandatory. I carry a tool bag with everything I need, plus an extra flashlight so I don't get stranded if my headlamp goes out. I carry my phone so I can call for help if I need it. Or get stuck!

That's most of the tricks. I've done it so much I have it down. I'd like to say it's not as bad as it sounds, but it is... It's a lot of trouble, but hardwiring everything makes it all work better and faster.
 
And for those with two story homes?
I still love these if you have a existing porch light to replace them with. Little pricy but quality is great.
And the biggest feature is your guest can be greeted with a chime or " We can't come to the door but the camera is recoding" If they are surveying house like a guy did once they do a 180 and never come back :)

 
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Perseverance! I've spent days in my attic running stuff. First for ethernet. Then a door bell. Then lighting. Then speaker wires. The HD video wires for TV. Then the soft-water line for my pool's auto-filler. Then more lighting. Then more ethernet. The second time for the POE cams. Luckily I have blown in insulation (NOT fiberglass), and my ridge is high enough that I can walk down the center. Otherwise I wouldn't have done some or most of that. Or whined about it more...

Getting to the inside of the walls varies. On the ends, where the roof doesn't slope down, it's easy. The other sides mean crawling on your belly through the insulation. One of my small claims cases was over missing insulation, which in this case worked in my favor, since half the insulation in my attic wasn't in my way!

So you get to the top plate (two horizontal 2x4s sandwiched together) of whatever wall you need to get into, and drill a 1/2" or 3/4" hole through both 2x4s. If your walls are not insulated, you tie a 20p nail to 10' of strong line and tie the other end to the wire you're running. You drop the nail down the hole with all the line and the first foot or two of wire. You leave 8' or so of wire stretched out in the attic, no loops or kinks, and then crawl back out. From the inside of the house you saw open a 6" x 6" square of sheetrock and stick your hand in there and feel around for the line. Then pull it and the wire down. If you have wall insulation (I do, and it's fiberglass!), it's so much more fun. You use a fish tape instead of the line. You can try taping the wire to the tape, and shoving that down the hole, or just the tape (which ultimately is easier). Back inside you hunt around for the tape, tie a string to that, go back into the attic and pull the tape out of the drilled hole and then tie the string to your wire, then back inside and pull that down. You tape up the string to the wire to make a nice smooth shape, so it won't catch your insulation on the way down and pull it out of place.

Once you get the wire in hand inside, then you drill through the outer wall (you cut your sheetrock square right behind where you want your cam), then connect it up. Patch the sheetrock (I have a trick for that, too, that makes it relatively painless), and then paint the wall corner to corner (or just the patch if your paint matches well).

If you're trying to come down through a bay next to a door (like where a doorbell might be), that can be tricky, because they typically frame one or two horizontal 2x4s next to doors for strength, which serve as blocks to your wire pathways. So you have to cut more sheetrock holes, one at every block, and drill through those and work the wire down through the blocks, one by one. It a few more sheetrock patches, oh well. You cut the holes carefully and use the cut out sheetrock as the patch, so you don't even have to buy any sheetrock. You're going to patch and blend and paint anyway, so a few more holes is no big deal.

Yah, do that 15-30 times, by yourself, then call me! Of course, a helper makes a huge difference, but it's possible to do by yourself. I wore a path through my attic insulation! I tried to rake it (literally) back into place as best I could, with some success. I ended up winning that small claims case after I was all done running everything, and had a contractor blow in a new layer, nice and neat.

Interior walls are easier because they don't have any insulation in them, and are generally easier to work over in the attic. You can usually figure out where you are in the attic, by orienting yourself with can lighting, furnace ducts, plumbing vents, etc. Then you move the insulation around and you'll see the sheetrock and the top plates of all the walls. If that proves to be to difficult, before you go up, you drill a very small hole in the ceiling and shove a wire or coat hanger through it, far enough up to penetrate the insulation, so when back in the attic you have a tell tale to look for. Then later fill the little hole with some spackle and some times you don't even have to paint those.

One of those headlamp thingies is mandatory. I carry a tool bag with everything I need, plus an extra flashlight so I don't get stranded if my headlamp goes out. I carry my phone so I can call for help if I need it. Or get stuck!

That's most of the tricks. I've done it so much I have it down. I'd like to say it's not as bad as it sounds, but it is... It's a lot of trouble, but hardwiring everything makes it all work better and faster.
Yeah.. I just bought a bunch of these directv Decas for $8.00 a pair on eBay and then had the cable company run a bunch of coax lines everywhere... the cable company only charged me $5.00 a line after the $50.00 or so charge for the first line.. the cable guy was kinda P.Oed at me that day, Lol! These cheap Deccas are only capable of 100mbs but they do have gigabit ones I could change them out for if I wanted to later. As it is 100mbs to the majority of my stuff is fine.
 
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And for those with two story homes?
You figure out which way the joists run and try to take advantage of that. If you have to go perpendicular, then it's the same trick as getting around a block in a stud bay. You cut the sheet rock so you can access the joist, drill through the joist, and run the wire through it. Lather, rinse, repeat, as many times as necessary. That might mean a lot of holes and patching, but it can be done (I've done it). If you're coming down from above, a big enough hole near the edge will reveal the subfloor above, and the hole you previously drilled through the bottom plate of the wall above that. You access the bottom plate of that wall through a sheetrock hole in the bottom of that wall. Yah, holy moly!

I've done this on smooth wall (that's the easiest patch), and I've done it with skip trowel finishes (that's trickier, but can be done by hand). I haven't tried it on splatter knock-down, but they sell kits that can recreate that texture, too.

When I said "perseverance," that's what I meant. Where there's a will there's a way. You don't have to take the sheetrock off to the studs, but with some planning and a little guesswork you can plot a path through just about any home's walls, ceilings and floors with some well-placed access holes.

Which is why everyone uses wireless. Which is why everyone complains about connections and speed. I have the skillset, so it's worth the trouble. I recognize that's not going to be true for everyone...
 
The trick to the patching is to not use sheetrock tape. That ends up needing a lot of layers of mud, and sanding and smoothing and blending... a 6"x6" hole becomes a 2'x2' patch, that'll take three or four days of drying, too! And a huge mess! My miracle material is Fix-It-All. It used to be called Fix-All. It's a spackling compound that dries like rock. So:

You use a sheetrock saw and carefully cut out the square. Smaller isn't better, because you have to get your hand in there, or a drill. Don't be shy. I'll cut out as big as I need to work comfortably. I'll save the cut out. When cutting through a wall, you have to be careful towards the end so that you don't lose the piece down the inside of the wall!

Come patch time, I'll cut two pieces of soft wood, a few inches longer than the patch is wide. So for a 6x6 hole I'll cut two 10" long pieces of wood. 1"x2" pine works great. I'll screw a sheetrock screw into the middle of flat side of each piece. That's a handle. Then I'll work the piece into the hole, and use the screw handle to pull the wood up tight to the back of the sheetrock. If the hole is big enough, you don't need the handle, you can just use your fingers to pull it tight. Then you screw through the sheetrock to fix the wood to the back of the sheet rock. Do that with the second piece. Now you can screw the patch to the wood and that will flush it up nicely with the wall. Mix up some Fix-It-All and smoosh it into the joints, smooth and flush with the wall. Don't leave any beads sticking out, as they are very hard to sand. Let that dry. Only takes a half hour or so.

That'll seal up the patch to the wall. Fix-It-All won't crack or shrink. It's stronger than the gypsum inside the sheetrock, and sticks to it permanently. I've never had one of these patches fail or later reveal. I've done it hundreds of times. Then you might need a light coat or two of mud over that, to just smooth over the Fix-It-All. Some light sanding between coats and you'll end up with a super smooth wall. Undetectable. Add texture to match the existing wall, prime and paint (don't skip the priming, it's not worth it). I can usually do all that in one day, with some hours between coats, depending on weather and how thick I had to coat things.
 

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