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Welcome to TFP! I'm pretty suspect that the copper level is actually 1.7 ppm, that's about 10x higher than even PoolRx would recommend. But if it is, then the water needs dumped ASAP. Sequestering that much metal is not going to go well (as you noticed) and floc is not going to remove it.

To clarify: there is no difference in the tests for manually chlorinated or SWG chlorinated pools. All of the tests in the k 2006/TF-100 work exactly the same when used to test a salt pool. The only additional thing a salt pool needs is a quality salt test.

I don't recall making that aside. I recall stating that some people try to say that the procedures of the forum should be adjusted based upon what they do and do not want to do, and then comparing your thought process to those people, but nowhere did I make any comment regarding your testing...

I didn't realize budget constraints had an effect on chemistry 🤣 Reminds me of the people who insist we give advice based on test strip readings because they don't want to spend money on a reliable test kit...

Because you decided to take a sample to the pool store "for fun" and ended up getting a hard sell that got you questioning everything. You went to a salesperson for a worthless test and got a sales pitch. What part of that was fun for you? There are better ways to waste your time.

It's my favorite compliment to get, but it used to be even better. When I first switched to TFP I switched from the Frog System (came with the house) which uses silver and tells you to maintain 0.5 ppm FC for a low chlorine experience. Switching from that to TFPC and from 0.5 ppm FC to 6+ ppm...

Roughly how many of them follow TFPC?

Without real test results I cannot tell you what it is. I can only point out that sodium hypochlorite coming out of solution in a pool is impossible.

Chlorine does not come out of solution in a pool. Whatever you are seeing, it's not that.

You put it in filter (where it will run through the filter and hopefully catch the debris for later backwashing) or waste (where it just dumps everything to the waste line), but never put it in backwash for vacuuming. That will deposit everything in the laterals and immediate sand and allow it...

I get this line of thought. I often use dichlor when I need quick CYA, or trichlor when CYA is just a little low. But here's something to remember: when CYA is too low then you lose a lot of FC to sunlight during the day. Tabs might not be able to keep up depending on how you are dissolving...

First thing's first: are you following TFPC or are you following Pooli? Are you using their products and how are you testing your water? Your logs show a 40 ppm CYA increase and a 100 ppm CH decrease over a single day, that sounds like something you'd see from test strips... You can't mix...

Your comment makes no sense. One of three criteria is that your pool is free of algae, so how can you pass the and still have algae? What did you actually do?

Still wondering what this "24 hour algae kill" is...

What is that? Why?!?

That is a DPD test. It's a color matching chlorine/bromine test that's a step up from the yellow OTO test, but not nearly as reliable or precise as the FAS-DPD test.

If your CYA is 30 then your SLAM level is 12 ppm FC.

What is the current salt level of your water?

The simple answer is "no". Floc has to be swept and discharged from the pool by vacuuming to waste, any left in the water can ruin the filter.

I have no experience with AquaClarity, but @Ahhsomeguy could probably answer any questions. As for the tub itself, IMO the water probably just needed changed and it's a coincidence that the CYA is lower at the same time the water is fresh.

Hmm, what process pushes water through the laterals up through the sand... :unsure:

Hi. I'd just like to confirm that we're on the same page regarding this algae. Could you describe it and what traits it has that indicates it is mustard algae aside of it appearing when the FC is high. Please don't take this request as an insult to your efforts, but you've done a lot that...

Most, if not all cells are like microwaves: when you set a % it just cycles on and off. So even if you set it to 50% it's still running at 100% for half the time and off the other half of the time. It shouldn't be an issue to run it this way.

What you are describing is just a backwash, but instead of using the high flow of a pool pump you'd be using the low flow of a garden hose. It would not replicate a deep clean, it in fact would be less effective than a normal backwash.

Well, I cannot say for certain without more information, but the use of highly acidic trichlor does not typically bode well for the longevity of heat exchangers. If you're putting them in the skimmer, then that's definitely the problem. If you have a feeder but no check valve between it and...

How are you chlorinating the pool?

How do they fail? Corrosion in the heat exchanger, mechanical failure, etc? Is your pool still saltwater or have you switched to a different type of chlorination?

First, welcome to TFP! Dichlor is the absolute worst thing to use at this moment as it adds nearly as much CYA to the water as it does chlorine. If you've been using that in addition to adding stabilizer to the water then your CYA may be well over 100 and you're going to have to a pretty big...

CC is primarily the byproduct of chlorine reacting with ammonia or other compounds. Killing algae produces little if any CC. The presence of cloudy water and lack of CC is actually a strong indication of an algae bloom. Besides that though, the is not exclusively for the correction of an...

Tests cannot tell the difference between chlorine and bromine, so you're just seeing it react to chlorine. It would be best to throw those strips out and do not attempt to make any chemistry changes based upon them. They are incredibly unreliable and we've seen too many times that someone was...