Search results

Using acid to clean a SWG is your absolute last resort. Don't use acid to clean based on an time period or light coming on on the SWG control panel. First wash it out with a strong stream of water - I'd refrain from using a power washer though. Then try removing any deposits with a wooden...

As @Jimrahbe mentioned - the Hayward Max Flo VS has an integrated fully programmable touch pad control - a programmable timer with the ability to set variable speeds to run at programmed times. This pump should have continuous power and not be wired thru a separate timer. No idea on the Pentair...

That looks like an A&A DekClor unit. Just set the valve at the equipment pad connected to it about1/3 open to allow water to flow thru anytime the pump is on. That's how mine is set and I haven't put tabs in it for over 9 years. I do open it and rise with the hose a couple times a year.

The thumb screws help hold the handles in position. Loosen the thumb screws and try again. When tightening the thumb screws, just snug them up - don't over tighten.

Did you loosen the thumb screws before attempting to turn the handles?

Yup - covering a solar cover when it isn't on the pool will prolong its life considerably. Also, rolling it up rather than just putting it in a big heaping pile helps as well. Also, clean and dry it before storing away for long periods.

Those fittings look like DWV fittings and shouldn't be used for pressurized runs. The DWV fitting depth is much more shallow than a schedule 40 fitting.

Do you have automation? Do you have a heater bypass? With automation you can set up spillway mode to allow your spa water to refresh a few times daily for 15-30 minutes. No need to have the spa oferflow into the pool constantly any time the pump runs. Spillway mode will also keep the spa...

Having no filtrarion from 9am to 5pm (8hrs) and from 7pm to 4am (9 hrs) may be part of the issue. At what time of day are you testing your FC? It's possible your FC may be dropping below minimum prior to your SWG being on. You will be better served by raising your CYA to 70 from spring thru...

On a continual basis? It's either a suction side air leak when the pump is running or possibly air is getting in somewhere allowing air to accumulate in the filter when the pump is off. What is your pump runtime? Does the air accumulate in the filter when the pump is on or off?

No need to put anything down in PoolMath. If 8.0 or higher, add enough muriatic acid to lower the pH by 0.4 Retest in 30 minutes, if still 8.0 or higher, add enough acid to lower it another 0.4 Rinse, repeat. Once in the 7's, record the pH reading in PoolMath. Use Affects of Adding in PoolMath...

What are your pump runtimes? Pump start and end times? SWG percentage? Verify what salt cell you have. Your signature indicates a Hayward T5 cell (rated for a 20k gallon pool). If you have a T5 cell, it's too small for your almost 25k gallon pool/spa combo. Post a full set of current test...

Rent a sump pump from Home Depot or buy one at Harbor Freight or Amazon. Let's ping @Newdude to ask him to post a link to a decent one on Amazon. Inland California - as in IE or Central Valley? Add the city to your profile.

What exact SWG are you considering. Have you looked into the Circupool RJ series? Verify your test kit - what is a TF-2005? Is it a Taylor K-2005 or a TF-100? The K-2005 is missing the FAS-DPD chlorine test. If you have a K-2005 and add the FAS-DPD test, you have the equivalent of a K-2006...

Remove the screws, clean up the plate and use high quality stainless steel or brass screws to hold the plate in place.

Are you also seeing a similar reduction in your salt levels? Do the bucket test to see if you are losing water https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/glossary/bucket-test/ The TF-Pro Salt would work well for you. And guaranteed fresh reagents. Buying testkits from Amazon can easily lead to...

When friends and neighbors see my gin clear pool water they ask how I do it. I provide the TFP website address and suggest they visit it and look thru . That is usually as far as I go. One or two have embraced the TFP method with great success. Others try to mix TFP and PS methods - with poor...

For clarity - you use the standard solution instead of your pool water. You still need to add an equal amount of R-0013 each time you do the test using the standard solution.

If you're on board with the TFP method, forget what you've heard elsewhere. Most every other place is stuck in the 1980's. The "perfect" FC target (if that even exists) is the one that NEVER allows your lowest FC to approach minimum for your CYA - 24/7/365. You can even run above FC 10 - just...

Chances are you can run at less than 2600 RPM. With a clean filter - determine the minimum RPM that allows your SWG flow switch to close (allows SWG to produce chlorine). As long as this RPM is at least 1000 RPM, add 200 RPM to that number (to account for filter getting dirty) and use that RPM...

Try using 4 drops instead of 5. I find this works better for my eyes.

Shut your autofill supply line off and monitor the pool level. Let us know your water loss every 24 hours.

What happened when you adjust the suction side 3-way 180 degrees? Careful with that sewer plug - you don't want to crack anything. The QuikLok is the dumbell looking thing. Clean all the parts and the top section of the LeafVac (all to way from the top edge to below where the inner lid sits...

Post a full set of test results from one of the recommemded test kits. FC CC pH TA CH CYA Salt (if a SWG pool) Water temperature Do an , followed by the if you fail the OCLT. It's not a one and done type treatment. After the SLAM, FC will drop as a percentage of total FC. A higher CYA will...

Turn off HDR on your phone and take the pics again. Many of us won't open off site links.

Show us a pic and maybe someone will see an easy way to remove it and replace with PVC pipe.

"Borrowed" from a post by @mknauss - thanks Marty! After you have passed all 3 SLAM criteria, follow the 24 hours at mustard algae SLAM levels and then follow the mustard algae target levels for the next several weeks - these mustard algae target levels are 15% of your CYA level...

If CYA test 90 or above, do the diluted CYA test This should provide a better indication of how much water you need to drain/replace. For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows: Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark (15 ml line) with pool water. Continue filling...

Chances are your chlorine has dipped below minimum for your CYA. Set your SWG to produce to maintain high side of the target range. In Florida, you would be better served with a CYA of 70 once your SLAM is complete. Also, be a bit more proactive in keeping your pH in the 7's Actually, set up...

It's an A&A Indeck LeafVac These are no longer made, but parts are available online. There are a few posts about it on TFP - one showing a successful repair of the tabs that hold "QuikLok" device in place. The indeck unit has been superceded by the LeafVac that is co-located at the equipment...