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I have a full time water temp data logger. It fluctuates day/night between 50F-58F. My pool is mostly shaded. I'd guess at peak summer (July/Aug) it could add 10F, but that's just a guess. How is 45 not a valid number for CYA? The Taylor tic marks are at 40 and 50, but the scale (slightly...

My current numbers: pH: 7.6 TA: 110 CH: 230 CYA: 45 Avg temp: 55F CSI: -0.26 My pH has been rising fairly quickly so I've been pushing it down with acid, which in turn is rapidly dropping TA. This is further pushing my CSI more negative. For example, if this continues and TA eventually gets to...

Yes. My issue is my TA is getting lowered right now (with the added acid in order to keep pH in range) and I’ll quickly be at a point where I’ll have to add CH to keep CSI up. I’d rather keep CH low now while I can, and as summer comes and fill water adds CH, then the TA can be maintained at a...

Maybe I’m not stating the question well. I know what will happen with high TA and the recommended way to maintain a balanced CSI. Scaling won’t occur if CSI is in a good place, but a good CSI can be had even if TA is high and low CH (like how my water is now). My point is as I keep adding acid...

Oh, I should probably also mention that I have a small leak in the concrete. Another item to be addressed eventually.

I use a Taylor 2006 kit and a magnetic stirrer. I'm not so sure it's user (me) error. The addition of calcium and its measurement seemed to be consistent, just low compared with calculated values. The "lower than label said" could be a function of smaller than assumed pool gallonage. The mystery...

My pool chemistry has leveled off with a good CSI. Thanks everyone for the help through the process. My TA is still on the high side so it's pushing my pH up pretty quick, which I'm keeping in check with acid. My calcium is still on the low side (230 ppm). It's still gone down some for whatever...

Ok, I don't know what's going on with my CH levels. I've always had to add a bit more than the packaging/calcs say. A few days ago I measured it at 250, then added more over the next few days and it went up to 270, then unsurprisingly at 300 yesterday. Today it's at 240 when no new calcium was...

Thanks, we'll see how the summer season goes. I want to get proactive in getting my TA down. I've read about the acid and aeration method. My question is what would be a more energy efficient method to aerate: air or water jets? Aquarium type aerators are cheap and seem to provide a lot of...

That makes sense. I didn’t think the effect would be that great given how soft my tap water already is. This will be my first summer so I can monitor how much topping off is needed and I’ll test through the season. So what does everyone do after the summer season and CH spikes? Partial...

How does evaporation add calcium?

Hydrochloric acid 31%, and switched to different brand (same concentration) E-Z Chlor calcium chloride 100%.

I dropped some acid and more calcium: pH: 7.6 TA: 140 CH: 280 CYA: 50 Temp: 58F CSI: -0.03 I had to use more acid and more calcium (different brand this time) than what the labels say. I'm starting to doubt my water meter saying 15k gal when I refilled, but hard to believe it would be that...

Thanks. Using PoolMath and the bright red TA of 160, the CSI is 0.23. Still in the "good" range but will be creeping up outside of bounds as the temperature warms up. I'd still like to get the calcium a bit higher, but the borderline CSI is giving me pause. I'm thinking maybe a little muriatic...

Added more calcium and got fresh readings: CH: 230 CYA: 50 pH: 7.9 FC: 3.4 (I know it's low and just added some) TA: 150 So it looks like by adding all that calcium, it's spiked the pH upward. Looking at the total balance of the water, it's looking like calcium scaling -could- be a problem. I...

Calcium chloride is a salt that easily dilutes with water. Contact with water creates an exothermic reaction (it heats up). As a desiccant, it's sometimes used for removing moisture from air.

Pool Mate pure calcium chloride. Prior to adding it was 100 ppm. I put in 8 lbs. last week, tested yesterday at 130 ppm, then added about 7 lbs yesterday, tested today at 170 ppm. I premixed in a bucket until it was milky water and broadcast evenly around pool while pump running, so no chunks...

I added about 15 lbs of calcium to the 15,000 gal pool and the CH levels only went from 100 ppm to 170 ppm. That’s quite a bit short from what the labeling says it should have gone too. Is it possible the calcium is being deposited/absorbed by the walls?

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I added an initial drop of calcium that should put me a little short of 200 ppm. Going to let things settle for a couple days and then do another full test suite. Do these pumps sound ok to you guys? They've always sounded like this since we've moved in and...

I live in Santa Rosa. The water has always been on the softer side. Going to add calcium to get it to 200 ppm and see where things are. Then think about working on bringing TA down with an eye on pH.

Alight, on my way to getting back in balance. Added CYA and might bump FC up a little later. Retested with strips and K-2006. AquaChek 7 strip: CH: somewhere between 100-250 (hard to tell difference in region of interest) TC: 4.5 ppm FC: 3.5 ppm pH: 7ish (really hard to tell difference in...

Northern Cali. No standing water, no lakes/rivers nearby, ground seems relatively stable.

Any concerns with draining my pool down to 1/4 fill? It's mostly in-ground, on a partial slope so one side has exposed concrete. PebbleTec lining. Don't know a whole lot more than that. I think it'll be fine, but a little concerned if there are structural issues to be aware of.

Will start the process and let you all know how it goes. Thanks for the help.

CYA is 128 ppm after dilution and multiplying back. Looking like draining/refilling is the only practical option to drop. After it's refilled and CYA back to 40ish (?) range, what's the next to address? Chlorine then pH/TA?

K-2006 results are in: FC: 16.6 pH: under 7 (maxed) Alk: 20 ppm Hardness 210 ppm CYA: over 100 (maxed) So back to the original question. Suggestions on order of balancing?

Ok, I won't add anything until the K-2006 test results are in. Previous owner had a Polaris 280 cleaner, which worked ok but the common parts were worn out. Installed a rebuild kit and it worked a lot better. Then shortly after that I decided to try something else and got a Betta SE solar...

The previous owner put an unknown amount of liquid chlorine (my guess is way too much) in a couple of months prior to our arrival. We had a trichlor tablet in there for about the past two months, until recently when I removed it. Previous owner didn't add anything else for years (likely a...

The color on my test strips are pegged to the lowest/highest values. I get how they can only provide very coarse estimates, but if my CYA is pegged at the light orange, and the strip isn't completely worthless, wouldn't that suggest that CYA is at least way too low? I understand it's not...

For what it's worth, I bought the AquaChek strips after seeing this video showing that they were relatively accurate vs. pool store testing: I'll compare them to the K-2006C when it arrives.