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Well it ended up being a perfect time to move on and start over. The tub had just enough life left to sell for a few bucks and save me from scraping it or paying to haul it off. 20 years of good service out in the elements takes it's toll and even though it was on a raised concrete base the wood...

We bought a Sundance Optima new in 2003. It's been great, very reliable we've only put a few heaters, flo switches and covers on it but now it's time for another new cover ($500-$600) and I'm not sure how more life to expect from it at this age. It works perfectly right now, but how long do...

I got a new test kit after 10 years with the old one and wanted to test some of my larger left over regents. The large bottle or R-0009 doesn't have an expiration like the others do so I compared it to my new one. The new kit 0009 shows my TA at 100 and the older 009 has it at 60...a huge...

That sounds like a plan, I hadn't heard of that yet. Might be a good idea to get a few PAID opinions from some plaster contactors and see what they recommend.

I've been wondering the same thing. Ours is 9 years old and kept by TFP guidelines the whole time. No leaks, everything works fine, but the plaster collects dirt now and is rougher than before. I've sanded the whole pool with 120 grit diamond pads the last 2 years just to smooth it out...it has...

What kind of pads do you use? I saw some from DRP that go up to 120 grit, is that enough? https://drptools.com/collections/pool-plaster-polishing-pads

My husband and I figured out a couple things this year that made closing a lot smoother and kept tempers from flaring. They may be nothing new but I haven't seen them mentioned. The hardest part for us is putting the cover on, so this time we got 2 full pieces of PVC (1.5 and 2.0 inch) and...

I do, I let it gradually fill back up then pump it way back down letting the water level vary over the max 18" the cover recommends as lowest level. That way the water level line doesn't leave a "ring" from being in the same place all winter that can be a b#tch to clean.

I have a 4 year old 16k concrete pool with a tile waterline we've opened and closed every year with no problems. I was trying to think of a way to leave the water level up this time by putting some kind of expansion protection in the pool just like the foam water tubes we put in the skimmers...

Ok spanner wrench didn't work either, everything just chews up the plastic retainer ring...should we just cut them out? Someone must have dealt with this before!

We have some bad Savi Melody lights we have to remove. There are (were) 2 small notches in the 1.5" lens that were supposed to take a little key that came with the lights, but they are sooo tight they wont budge at all. We are thinking about trying a spanner wrench and if that won't work...

I just noticed one of my Savi lights is 1/2 full of water and the other one is 3/4 full! Oddly enough they still work. I'm going to send them in for warranty evaluation as they are less than 3 years old. I am not sure how they come out, does the wiring have to be replaced also?? Or are they just...

We thought of that, that's very possible. They would just have to be tiny bats! They are literally the size of a grain of rice, but sure make a big spot on bottom of the pool. I think I'll take some to the extension office and see what they think.

These seem to fall right out of the maple tree, I know there are locusts and wasps up there, but never see anything larger.

We never see any. These things are really small, like a grain of rice, that one looks bigger because of the shadow. I suppose they could be in the maple tree bombing us from above. I just had the feeling it may be from an insect.

Sure, they will roll right along if the wind is up, it always is here. They seem to disolve, or, melt and leave a stain. [/url]][/img] [/url]][/img]

I get these 1/4" long dark things the diameter of pencil lead on my deck that blow in the water and make a dime size orange spot on the bottom of the pool. They seem to come from under the edge of a maple tree. I believe it to be some kind of insect dropping but I'm not sure. Some days I get...

Oustanding, I'll try that a try. Anything to pour less acid in there!

All I have ever had to put in is bleach, baking soda and acid (a bit of cya also). I've never looked at boaates, perhaps I should! It seems I correct high ph with acid, and that drives the TA down quickly. I kick it back up with BS, which brings the pH back up, more acid...blahh bllahh.

I have the same issue as this topic. I do use a waterfall at times, but am constantly chasing PH and TA. My TA drifts down to 40 every week, I stopped raising it as much per another threads recommendation. I used to push it to 90/100, now I just keep it 40-60, but I still fight the PH always at...

We don't seem to have many options for liquid chlorine in Oklahoma, I found some at ACE hardware for $4.49 a gal but it's only 10%! Bleach seems to cost more here also, I get the 3 pack of Clorox at Sams for $9.00 a box, that's still $3.00 per gal. What do you other Okies out there do for chlorine?

Roger that, but the rest of the world reccommends 80-120. I've learned all I know from this forum and the most excellent pool school. I've kept my TA between 50-100, usually 60-90 (per the pool school) I just don't understand why it constantly moves, what the influences are that require constant...

I do have a waerfall, but we don't use it that much. The 7.5 ph is at the low end now, I just added acid, again. My real question remains, if I don't have any problems keeping PH in range without all the wild swings you read about, is there any other reason to keep TA in the conventional proper...

The whole BBB system works very well for me, but it seems like I constanly fight low TA and high PH. The lowest I've dared let TA sink is 50, 8 lbs of baking soda puts me back to 100 for a few weeks. The PH always wants to be high, I add acid about 2 times a week to control it. Is this normal...

Is it best to leave a Polairis cleaner in the water under the cover all winter so the seals/rubber parts don't dry out in the house?

We live in Oklahoma so not very thick or for very long when it does freeze over, but it does get down in the teens seveal times a year so maybe and inch? I'm getting a new loop-super tight mesh, so peeliing it back to ckeck and adjust water level should be easy enough, what do you think?

That's what I was wondering, you hear never to leave it dry for long, but maybe they mean the walls or any verticle surface, The top of the platform is flat so maybe no probelm?? Anyone else have any ideas?