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Here's some info: https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/simple-fix-for-a-cracked-union-nut-on-a-pentair-salt-cell.196486/

Uh, well, that's not exactly accurate, now is it? You might not see any advantage to the 18" run, but your IC is too close to your heater. Perhaps next time the fitting fails you'll again be lucky enough to be standing nearby. Anyway, I don't know what a "split union nut" is, but I do know the...

Another consideration... While there is debate about the necessity of this on the forum, Pentair IntelliChlor (IC) instructions are clear: there is supposed to be 12-18" of straight pipe before a Pentair IntelliChlor. I personally think this is a good thing, as it might provide better...

Ah, but I did give you advice on how to fix your panels/tubes, AND a likely smarter alternative: In other words, defer to Fafco instructions for repairing a panel/leaking tube. Don't invent a fix. Which is why I didn't endorse/support your various ideas (irrigation parts, screws, caulk, etc)...

Thanks! I'll check that out.

Yah, you want a dedicated pump and power source, instead of relying on either existing pump, neither of which is designed to do what you want, each relying on a power source that might not be available when you need it. While you're at it, if you come up with a way to drink pool water, add that...

And I'll remind @aquaman what I wrote previously. You might want to review my earlier post (#5).

That's correct. I didn't have to solve for that, and why I still want to use my IpH controller during the rest of the seasons. The work-around is to use scheduling. The EasyTouch only allows eight schedules, and I really like the way the IpH dispenses every hour. I contend (pretend?) that it...

You haven't let the water drain down far enough to determine if it is a return or not. And based on the pics, if it's that vac port or not. If it drains down below all the returns, that means it's not the returns. If it stops at the returns, then it's one of them. Remember, the plugs you have in...

I would think so. If one of the drains is leaking, and you could get the dye to suck into one of them, with the covers in place you wouldn't be able to determine exactly what is leaking. And if you couldn't see the dye get sucked in with the covers on, you wouldn't really know if one of the...

As I've been talking through this troubleshooting with @mcleod, the factor that is well outside of my wheelhouse is the stress to the pool structure. I wouldn't even want to drain my concrete pool like this. How much draining can a vinyl pool withstand? We're already seeing sags and wrinkles...

(OK, you all saw it. He asked first, I didn't shove it down his throat!!!) Why, yes, as a matter of fact!! One of my favorite threads! (Note, I have an EasyTouch, but all the principles would apply to IntelliCenter.)...

This is the one I always have to rewind and rewatch a couple times!

On second look, they all look tweaked out of position. I say let it leak, to see if the water drains down below the returns.

Which port is this? Has the water level ever drained down below it? Or has it stopped here? It looks to be under a lot of stress. It's poking out, and there's a big wrinkle just below it. It's definitely been tweaked out of its original position. Sidebar: you don't need to keep addressing any...

You mean from his filter? Dern it, I didn't think of that! We've been analyzing how the water drops and what's been going on in his yard (some recent work was a suspect). He's been monitoring the bucket test the whole time, so he ruled out evaporation. He just replumbed his pad, and had his...

I didn't even read all that. We've all got our own similar list. ;)

I'm very interested in this. If it doubled the time between scrubbing and/or halved the work, that'd be something.

Or just unplug it so it can't do anything.

Did you examine the two sealing surfaces with a magnifying glass? You'd be looking for a lump of something that wouldn't come loose by just rubbing it with a cloth (or the Q-tip you're not supposed to use). Or a crack.

If you use a moderate amount of lube, and hand tighten, then torque another 1/8 turn (with towel or tool), and you get a leak, then you're not doing it wrong. Especially if you've tried multiple o-rings. The reason I suggested the o-ring swop is just a matter of thorough trouble-shooting. If...

+1 ^^^

It's only one side leaking, right? You could swap the o-rings, one end to the other, to see if it's the o-ring or not.

In the first pic above, note the screw and washer holding the IntellipH base to the pad. They've got some rust on them, but I think that's because the screw is just plain steel. Now look at the pipe on the wall, and its clamp and the screw holding the clamp in place. No corrosion. Those are my...

No. There are lots of stirrers available, just not one that will fit through the grid of an IntellipH. Which is why I fabricated it. I used a fiberglass rod I found at Lowe's (in their signage department, I think). Really that's all you'd need. Just an acid-proof rod to swish it around some...

Other things to recheck. I think you said you replaced the o-ring and that didn't help. If not, do. Feel the o-ring all the way around, a few times, hunting down bumps, splits, cracks, deformations, etc. Be sure the lube coats every bit of the ring, but don't slop it on. Shiny, not gooey. You...

I'm in the other camp, I can't get things tight enough with just my hands anymore. I use a giant pipe wrench to give an extra 1/8 turn after hand-tightening. I have never lubed the channel in which an o-ring seats. Not for my pool equipment, not for my scuba equipment. I was taught to lightly...

Ha, I just read that back and it sounded a bit like a payola scheme. To be clear, the money you donate to TFP goes to infrastructure: web and app development and internet expenses. Everyone helping others here are all volunteers, pool folks just like you, who came here for help with their pool...