Search results

Your last tested CH is 110ppm, Range is 250-650. Since your pool is vinyl you dont have a hard set limit but your CSI will be your guide.

You can use stenner pumps for chorine and acid with timmers but its not a guarantee.

This is a check valve and it will function accordingly. A check valve does not work for this. A check valve just prevents water from flowing back. Probably used for water from the SWG not flowing back to the heater, but its not mandatory. You need a diverter path with a Jandy neverlube 3 way...

No splash chlorine has additives which we dont like on our pools. The frog cartridge has metals wich we also dont like and can stain your new pool. All the taylor reagents can be sold separately so buy what you need. Follow and you will be fine.

You only need Liquid chlorine, CYA and Muriatic acid. Salt if its a salt pool. Dont buy anything else and get rid of all the other stuff.

You can try to use a pvc plug and glue it permanently. If it does not work you are back to idea #1 by Poolstored!

Is it because its leaking? Its usually the spider gasket. That can be order easily.

+1 not zeo!

You need to check all the wires starting from the main bus bar, swg transformer and even try to swap the breaker.

Can you fill in your signature with your pool specs so we can help you better? Which Taylor kit you have? What are your results? FC PH CC TA CH CYA We do not trust poo$tore results, use a reliable

If water is not crystal clear then you need to . Add 30ppm of CYA according to . You can lower PH to 7.2 before you start the slam. Turn off you SWG.

I have to disagree, its the carbonates!

I have zeo in my sand filter for almost 5 years now. Its not something to avoid, it has a different learning curve than sand. If you treat it just like sand replacement it wont work. You need a VS pump for it to work. It needs slow speeds.

Ice Melt is calcium(CH) and Cyanuric Acid is CYA.

Picture of breakers please

Your CYA of 50 is low for Houston, fine for winter, but for summer you need 70-80. Make sure to adjust when the heat and UV index start to get high.

Then that is completely normal.

Most people assume that is the case, but a pool pump is upward of 1k and a submersible pump 100 bucks. If you forget you are draining and the pool pump runs dry it will cost you dearly.

Make sure they use an Epoxy based grout. Im bias towards Latticrete Spektra loc and they have a lot of glitter to color it also. I like floor returns but not mandatory.

Pumps should not run dry. Turn off imediately. Open up the lids of the pump controller and take a picture. What are your schedules on the ET?

How many hours are you running the SWG? The calculator says at least 12@70% hours to generate 3ppm at least on your pool, which is standar.

Do you have a picture?

Here is another tip, if you have magic lube(silicon), sparingly lub the santoprene tube and rollers. Even the housing on the inside, this will definitely prolong the life of all parts. Mine is 4 years running without changing the tube and no corrosion.

True, but should have filter a lot faster. The DE is clogging up the channels in the sand. Sand never goes bad, its been around for millions of years. Sand clumps up and loses efficiency, that is why he needs to look into the sand or do a deep cleaning of the sand. More so if he does not know...

Is it a 1.5 or 3 hp? 3Hp would be overkill for AGP but still would work.

The roller head just pulls out. Might be stuck and corroded. Use some penetrating oil., no solvents. The screws for the rollers dont need to come out, they are destroyed.

Just as a business opportunity, just replace the drive(450 used on ebay) and sell it. A used pump runs for 1300 bucks on ebay.

If DE helped clear better, my suspect is the sand filter. Installing unions is a 15-30 min job. The clarifier needs some time with the pump off so use this time to check the sand.

SWG all the way! Some people add a larger skimmer, you will have to cut some vinyl but is way better.