Replacing pump motor with after-market motor, no apparent voltage selector

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noncitizen

Member
Jun 5, 2022
11
Baltimore, MD
Yes, I probably should have spent the extra money and gotten a Hayward motor.

All the mechanical stuff came apart and went back together like a breeze. But now it's time to wire it up, and when I remove the cover for the new motor, there is nothing I can discern that allows me to select between 115 and 230 volts. Please see pictures.

I know very little about electricity. Could it be some sort of auto-select/auto-detect? Many thanks!

Pictures are old Hayward voltage selector, new after-market motor label and electrical connectors, etc.
 

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The label for your new motor shows it compatible for either voltage. Hard for me to discern the connections though. Let's ask @1poolman1 if he can tell which points the leads should go to.

By the way, are there any other labels on that motor you can post? Make, Model, etc. There was nothing labeled or stamped inside the rear cover?
 
Look at the picture of a Century motor rating plate, the middle-right side. You will see the certification that it meets safety requirements for motors in both the U.S. and Canada. No such certification for that motor. In a pool we use highly-conductive water, high voltage, and people, no room for error.
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Not having used that motor, nor any like it because I wouldn't, best guess is Black/White-120V, Black/Red-Brown-240V.
Unless the service factor horsepower (total horsepower) of that motor, which is 1, is the same or higher than the one being replaced it will not last very long.
 
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Ok, now I feel like a real idiot. Look what I found inside the cap. Thanks for the help, guys.

Although, I will say, having never done this before and with electricity not being my strong suit, I might have to come back with a close up of the old Hayward motor. At first glance, I couldn't tell if it was set to 115 or 230. I'm hoping after a good, long look, I'll be able to figure it out.
 

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noncitizen said:
Ok, now I feel like a real idiot. Look what I found inside the cap. Thanks for the help, guys.

Although, I will say, having never done this before and with electricity not being my strong suit, I might have to come back with a close up of the old Hayward motor. At first glance, I couldn't tell if it was set to 115 or 230. I'm hoping after a good, long look, I'll be able to figure it out.
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Right now, 230V according to the diagram. That's the way any motor with the choice should come from the factory. The diagram is upside-down in the picture from the motor picture, but it doesn't matter in a 230V installation.
You can then hook up 115 and it won't damage it (and it may not run at all) but hook 230 to one set up for 115 and its "good by motor."
 
Ok, after searching around, I found this page — How To Wire A Pool Pump - INYOPools.com

Based on the image below, I believe the old Hayward was setup for 115v, because the black plug was attached to both 4 and 5 (see image). Before I found this page, as I looked at the wiring, I reasoned that for 230v, only the black wire would be attached to 5, and the white wire would not be attached to anything. This page seems to confirm my reasoning. So I'm going to go with 115v.

Thanks, again!
 

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noncitizen said:
Ok, after searching around, I found this page — How To Wire A Pool Pump - INYOPools.com

Based on the image below, I believe the old Hayward was setup for 115v, because the black plug was attached to both 4 and 5 (see image). Before I found this page, as I looked at the wiring, I reasoned that for 230v, only the black wire would be attached to 5, and the white wire would not be attached to anything. This page seems to confirm my reasoning. So I'm going to go with 115v.

Thanks, again!
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According to the first picture you posted, yes it was 115V. You will have to move the brown and red wires according to the label in the new motor.
For safety, you should check the actual power with a meter.
What is the circuit breaker that powers the system? Is it a single pole or double? If single it is 115V.
 
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