PH always rises above 8.2, even after dropping TA from 260 to 30

pappaloo

New member
May 16, 2024
2
San Jose, CA
Hi Experts,

Looking for some advise here. Have a 500 gallon SWG hot-tub and have always been able to maintain PH of 7.6 to 7.8 in the past 7 years with a TA of ~120 (using dry acid). The last time I filled my hot tub, I noticed significant scaling and couldn't balance the hot-tub so I started over with a drain/refill last week and ordered the K2006 test kit (I had an older Taylor one and not sure how accurate it was). My tap water (which I think has recently changed its source) is CH 250, PH 8.2 or 8.3, TA 260, CYA 0. I am using approx 3000ppm salt with a solax SWG (been using this for past 5 years or so).

I follow the instructions, drop the PH to ~7, aerate and wait till stabilizes (always about 8.2 or 8.3) and test TA. I did this about 2 or 3 times to drop TA to 80, but PH still rose to 8.2. I then read the forums and folks suggested to even go to TA of 50. I did that using the dry acid each time to get to 7, dropped to 50, but still went to 8.2 (after an hour or two, no aeration just circulation pump going), then tried 40 (trying to learn what is happening here), then even now 30, but PH still rises to 8.3. I'm getting TA back up to 80 or so, so that I can just add dry-acid each time I go in. However, this doesn't seem like a good strategy as I'll need to add baking soda in once my TA gets too low and PH is just unstable.

From past posts, this always look to work. To be transparent, I did add 1oz of Stain and SPA control and 1 or 2 oz of Spa 56, just to try and avoid scale and start having chlorine in the hot-tub. Not sure if this affected my results.

What am I doing wrong here?
 
Last edited:
Hi Experts,

Looking for some advise here. Have a 500 gallon SWG hot-tub and have always been able to maintain PH of 7.6 to 7.8 in the past 7 years with a TA of ~120 (using dry acid). The last time I filled my hot tub, I noticed significant scaling and couldn't balance the hot-tub so I started over with a drain/refill last week and ordered the K2006 test kit (I had an older Taylor one and not sure how accurate it was). My tap water (which I think has recently changed its source) is CH 250, PH 8.2 or 8.3, TA 260, CYA 0. I am using approx 3000ppm salt with a solax SWG (been using this for past 5 years or so).

I follow the instructions, drop the PH to ~7, aerate and wait till stabilizes (always about 8.2 or 8.3) and test TA. I did this about 2 or 3 times to drop TA to 80, but PH still rose to 8.2. I then read the forums and folks suggested to even go to TA of 50. I did that using the dry acid each time to get to 7, dropped to 50, but still went to 8.2 (after an hour or two, no aeration just circulation pump going), then tried 40 (trying to learn what is happening here), then even now 30, but PH still rises to 8.3. I'm getting TA back up to 80 or so, so that I can just add dry-acid each time I go in. However, this doesn't seem like a good strategy as I'll need to add baking soda in once my TA gets too low and PH is just unstable.

From past posts, this always look to work. To be transparent, I did add 1oz of Stain and SPA control and 1 or 2 oz of Spa 56, just to try and avoid scale and start having chlorine in the hot-tub. Not sure if this affected my results.

What am I doing wrong here?
Can't say it's what's going on, but I had much better success controlling my PH bounce with two major changes:

(1) I added some borates. I used Gentle Spa, about 50 ppm, added once at startup and then didn't have to worry about it until it's drain and refill time because they don't get consumed as far as I've heard. Not too pricey for a one time upfront purchase of the bottle (which will last years) and a pack of borate test strips (for this, which doesn't require much precision, I felt strips were fine. Don't even know if there's an easily available borate drop test). I think this was the major change.

(2) Personally after several people suggested dry acid would build up sulfates that I didn't need or want, I switched to muriatic acid. It is definitely more of a pain in the butt, but once I get my spa stable (which took about a week) I don't really have to use it very often.
 
Yeah, I thought about adding borates, but it was listed to only add once the spa was stable. I haven't reached that point yet. Im thinking to add Borax to raise my TA as well, then I can reduce with acid. I'll try Muriatic acid, and see if any success, I have lots on hand for my pool. Strangely enough, my pool is not having the same issues, but I always use muriatic acid. Maybe that is the clue...

Thanks for the reply.