New Build - DFW

With equipment installed you are past the pressure testing phase that @AQUA~HOLICS showed.

amindu786 said:

Interesting. I don’t think they ever pressure tested would this be an issue?

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It would be an issue if there are leaks in pipes that are now buried.

amindu786 said:

The plumbing is all installed outside the pool shell, would that make a difference?

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Make a difference with what?

Pressure testing should be done before pipe trenches are filled so if any PVC glue joints are leaking they can be identified and fixed.

amindu786 said:

what does pool not keeping pressure mean? The electrian mentioned that on 2 separate occasions in the past week as he was hooking up the panel and lights. Tile and coping was also added last week, there is no water in the pool so the comment has been confusing. I know the plumber added water to the equipment when he plumbed a month ago. I imagine whatever the issue is would be something that’s fixed since it wouldn’t pass final inspection??

They also had to cut rebar to be able to install the light, won’t this rebar cause issues with rusting and seeping through the plaster or is there a way this gets fixed? We are doing mini pebble plaster. Pic attached

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Concrete does not keep pressure. It's porous. It can be water proofed to stop seepage and it is then sealed with plaster which stops water from seeping out. There are several ways to "seal" concrete. Some just seem to apply plaster because it can seal the concrete itself. Others seem to apply a separate bonding/waterproof layer. Both also seem to work but I prefer a bonding/waterproofing layer since it seems to me that it provides an independent layer of leak protection if the plaster ever cracks.

When builders refer to "holding pressure" they're usually referring to the piping. Piping is tested with test rigs that include a pressure gauge. It is pressurized and checked to see if it holds for a period of time, usually 24 hours. There is usually an inspection that is done with the gauges at pressure before concrete is applied. At this point they also check to ensure no rebar is withing 2-3" of the surface.

There is raw rebar all around the inside of your concrete that rusts and it's supposed to be at least 2-3" away from the surface. Sometimes during the concrete operation the rebar shifts and protrudes. This is not a good thing since rebar that's not fully encased does not provide the tensile strength to the structure. However, designs are usually very conservative so there is still enough strength with a minor piece of rebar protruding. Also sometimes during concrete application small pieces of rebar or steel are used to support the forms and will protrude. These should be cut off below the surface and coated to eliminate rust.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

It is normal to have delays due to rain, how long that is really depends on soil conditions. One thing to consider is you don’t want crews working in unsafe conditions such as mud, best to be on the safe side and give the soil time to dry out.

amindu786 said:

Thanks all. One other question the tile they installed isn't all completely flat/even, some pieces are slightly raised than the piece next to it, you can feel it if you run your hand against it. Is this normal considering they are putting it against shotcrete which is probably uneven and there is glue behind it as well or should I bring it up?

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Thinset is used to adhere tile to the wall. A good tiler will vary the thickness of the thinset to even out the imperfections in the gunite and even the tiles.

Slightly raise I would let slide. To fix it they need to pop off the tile which may damage it and grind down the thinset to put another layer on. That can all cause more problems then the slight raise you have now.